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    iX Booster Question

    I'm asking this for my brother, who is putting an M50 in his E30. He's using an iX brake booster with an iX master cylinder. When he tries to put it in with the spacer, it hits the brake lines. So his question is, can he run the iX booster/MC with the spacer, or does he have to run it without the spacer and drill new holes in the firewall?

    Thanks.

    #2
    It gets installed without the spacer, and you have to modify 2 of the 4 original holes in the firewall. Also you will have to shorten the booster shaft. There was a user on here that was selling one modified already. Forgot his name, and not sure if he still has it.
    Good luck
    Last edited by Schneller 3er; 07-18-2010, 06:48 AM.
    Danny

    88 ///M3 - Zinno street/shop queen
    88 ///M3 - Henna Track rat (Sold)
    98 ///M3 hellrot - Sold
    89 Porsche 944 - dd
    95 E34 525it/pick up - P/U Project
    90 325is - track rat

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      #3
      There is absolutely no point in using the iX booster if you are not going to use the spacer. All you need to do is rebend the brake lines a bit.

      If you're going to take out the spacer, just use the stock booster and shift it over to the side.
      2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
      2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
      1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
      1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
      - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
      1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
      1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

      Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
      Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

      sigpic

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        #4
        ^ What he said. Why waste time modifying the mounting holes and rethreading the rod if you have the spacer.

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          #5
          Ok, he got it to fit. He removed the rubber thing that holds the brake lines and the booster fits. We haven't checked the brake pedal position yet, but he said it has 2 or 3 threads left so we should be able to adjust it a bit more from its current position. Here are some pics:





          So, this should be okay to run? It's not gonna damage the brake lines, and we shouldn't have to shorten the rod?

          Thanks for the quick responses guys.

          Comment


            #6
            With the spacer, all you need to do is adjust the brake pedal until your brake light switch works properly.

            Make sure the brake lines aren't touching/rubbing against anything, any you're golden. If necessary, you can pad them.
            2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
            2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
            1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
            1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
            - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
            1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
            1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

            Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
            Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

            sigpic

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              #7
              Awesome. Thank you!

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                #8
                A couple more questions:

                The fork on the booster rod is adjusted all the way down, but the pedal is all the way against the brake light switch bracket. It pushes the brake light switch out of the bracket, but one of the clips on the brake light switch is broken.

                Also, what's a good padding for the brake lines?

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                  #9
                  Electrical tape is one option for wrapping.

                  Replace the switch and then see. I had to adjust the fork out on mine.
                  2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                  2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                  1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                  1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                  - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                  1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                  1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                  Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                  Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                  sigpic

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Fork is threaded all the way down, to the point where the locking nut is right up against the smooth part of the rod. I'm gonna put a new switch in and see if it pushes it out again. Seems like only the side with the broken clip is getting pushed out.

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                      #11
                      Did you bolt up the intake yet?? How's the clearence? I didn't use the spacer you have shown so I had to cut the shaft about 3/4 inch.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The engine is not in yet. Yeah if you don't use the spacer you have to cut out a good chunk, with the spacer and the fork threaded all the way down, the brake pedal hits the brake light switch bracket, so i dunno what to do there. But i gotta get a new switch because one of the clips broke and it won't stay in.

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                          #13
                          Here's a link to what i did. I didn't use the spacer. The ix booster is much better then the 320i booster that is in my DD, IX booster is in the race car. Don't know about the stock booster vs the ix booster. I would think the dual diaphragm would give a little more assist then the stock booster. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

                          Last edited by surebimmer; 07-18-2010, 03:37 PM. Reason: link

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                            #14
                            No link fail :P hah. I've already bolted it up with the spacer problem is the brake pedal is hitting the brake light switch bracket.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I've come up with a couple of ideas:

                              a. i'm gonna cut out about 1/4 inch on each side of the fork and reweld it together or

                              b. I'm gonna try and find a similar piece and tap it to screw on the rod ( giggity) or i'll just make my own fork that will pull the pedal back about 10cm

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