I have a plot of AFR's from the dyno but the numbers are not representative of actual AFR, meaning that when his wideband reads 12:1 it's actually something like 11:1. Only reason he uses this sensor is because he trusts its precision, but it's just not accurate :)
If I get a chance I guess I can log a run and post a precise AFR plot.
Just shoot me a PM if you're in town.
MAZUR's E30 S50 Turbo - REV B
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I wanna go for a ride. Really great power results.
How are the AFRs?
If I am ever in AZ, I want a ride.Leave a comment:
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Turns out I made a mistake with my last posts referring to VANOS. My tuner inadvertently had the activation of VANOS reversed and had not activated VANOS at all for the dyno pull I posted above. I found this out after looking through my tune. I told my tuner about it and he asked me to come back to fix his mistake.
Before going back I rewired my fuel pump with 10 gauge wiring, which fixed my previous fueling problem. I was therefore ready to raise the boost, but unfortunately my boost control setup with my wastegate would not allow us to raise it higher than what the following results show. Once I re-plumb the vacuum lines to properly control the wastegate I may go back, but for now I am more than happy with my results and truly don't need more.
These following results were produced with VANOS turning off at 4500 rpm...and some extra added boost :) If you compare the two graphs you can see how much torque VANOS can provide in the bottom end by allowing the turbo to spool much quicker.
512rwhp/493rwtq

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Sounds like a plan! Ive about got everything together for the AEM. Any chance you've decided on a number? :)Leave a comment:
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Check it out guys. I lost roughly 50 ft-lbs at redline when Vanos was deactivated at 5500rpms with 10psi of boost.

A note to my 24v turbo brothers, keep that Vanos on once you're above idle.
EDIT: This is incorrect. See later post with explanation.Last edited by mazur; 10-27-2011, 08:15 PM.Leave a comment:
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FINALLY have some results to share on my build. Damn, has it already been a year? :o
Anyways, for much of the past year I have been really busy with school and work and sort of ignored any issues I had with the car. My only real issues were wiring gremlins. The car would run fine for a while and then suddenly I would have weird missfires or spark blowout with barely any boost. Then it would magically drive well again, so because of my busy schedule and this car being my daily driver, I just dealt with it.
I finally traced the problem to the DME to EMS adapter that I made, on the DME connector side. Even with soldering the wires to the pins and using cocking to reduce the chance of vibrational damage, it still failed. I just threw that shit away, cut off the DME connector on the main harness and wired it directly to the Honda connectors. It's been perfect ever since.
Last weekend I went to a track event at INDE Motorsport Ranch. This would be my first time driving this car boosted on the track. Though I was nervous the whole time on track that something may go wrong, it didn't. Everything worked flawlessly. All I had to do was keep feeding it corn. :D I only ran it at 8 psi though because I'm a waffleswaffleswaffleswaffleswaffles and was afraid I may blow it up.
Here's a very short clip of it on track - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V21sQ...eature=related
Today I finally took it to a local shop to clean up my tune and begin making some serious power. The end result - 453rwhp/413rwtq corrected...with a cat ;)
Here's the video of the dyno pull (Don't mind the vacuum tubes. Did some last minute boost control plumbing.) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsNy_...layer_embedded
That pull was done at 15psi and just over 10 degrees was added to my "base" map, lol. Every time we added timing it just kept making more power. He wanted to keep the tune fairly conservative so we didn't push timing any further.
One thing that my buddy Tchao and I found interesting is how much torque fell off at the top end when we deactivated VANOS (something crazy like 30tq IIRC).. We initially thought gains would be made by retarding the cam timing up top, but the very opposite was true. VANOS therefore is left active anytime the vehicle is not idling.
We had to stop at 15psi due to my fuel pump not being able to keep up with the fuel demands. I did recently install an Aeromotive 340lph pump which I had hoped would alleviate this problem, but I guess I was wrong. My first plan of attack is to check to see if I'm getting a voltage drop in my stock pump wiring. Chances are this is my problem and I feel dumb for not re-wiring the fuel pump as is recommended by probably all aftermarket pump manufacturers :embarrasm If that doesn't help, I may just do a dual parallel setup.
Once fuel delivery is all sorted out I will probably be going back to squeeze some more out of her. 20psi? :devillook
Anyways, this car just WRIPS! On my drive home tonight I just couldn't believe how strong this thing pulls. If I had traction in second gear I would definitely cream my pants.
I'm going to play with the vehicle speed dependent boost control to help out with the traction issue.

The pull was done mainly at 1 bar but we increased the top end to 15 psi to flatten out the torque curve a little. Also, I'm not sure if my turbo spool is up to par or not. It is a journal bearing turbo, so maybe my results are typical. Anyone else have any experience?
Last edited by mazur; 10-11-2011, 01:39 AM.Leave a comment:
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Richard, how is the wrinkle paint holding up?
Car looks tits as usual, nice work man!Leave a comment:
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A little OT, but I was in one of the labs at school using the CMM to inspect a part today and couldn't help but recognize what head was pictured on one of the manuals :D

Anyways, update is that car is running great. Still boosting at 8.5 psi. Once I get a little extra dough I'm going to take her on a dyno. But before that I still need to install my boost control solenoid and get it to work with the Synapse WG.Leave a comment:
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Small update:
Well, turbo blankets work REALLY well. Just after simple cruising, you can see the turbine housing glowing quite brightly at night and takes a while to fade. Without the blanket, no glowing at all.
About the air filter, looks like the summer heat is just not letting the compressor housing dissipate heat quickly enough, because even without the blanket, it still began melting the rubber on my new K&N. I'm just going to isolate the filter from the compressor.
My EGT's -
Idle: avg 700*F
Cruising @ 80mph: avg 1050*F
I don't have solid number on WOT, but it currently seems like it may be on the cool side.
Boost pressure is currently set at 8psi @ 15 deg and I cannot believe how strong it feels. Feels quicker than a R35 GTR for sure. It really excites me for what's still to come. :D
Also began tuning my "VANOS map", as I've been running it without VANOS until this time. Activating VANOS has rendered needing roughly 8%+ increased fueling across the map.
Interesting note. I was doing some tuning with my friend at the wheel and decided to upload the VANOS map. He instantly asked me what I changed. I said, "nothing, why?". He says, "I don't know, it's spooling a lot faster all of a sudden". "Oh yah, that's VANOS :)"
So coupled with the extra exhaust gases of E85 my GT35 spools like a much smaller frame unit.
Next steps: boost control, dyno, video, wheels, brakes, trackday, video. *Sigh*, still have plenty to do :)Leave a comment:
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It was an especially hot day that day and I was doing some boosting, so together that may have been too much for my filter. I'll worry about it if it happens again. So far so good though.Leave a comment:

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