What's the *best* radiator for M50?

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by Janderson
    Can anyone clarify this a little more? Do you need the 2.0 or the 1.4 with the M50? Mine has the 1.4, and I need to know if I need to order the 2.0 cap.
    I haven't been able to track down a 2.0 bar cap on realoem anywhere...I think they only sell a 1.4 nowadays?

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  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Can anyone clarify this a little more? Do you need the 2.0 or the 1.4 with the M50? Mine has the 1.4, and I need to know if I need to order the 2.0 cap.

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  • Fusion
    replied
    I think this sentance

    That's probably why the M42 has a 1.4 bar cap, and the M20 and M50 have 2.0 bar caps.
    should be

    That's probably why the M42 has a 2.0 bar cap, and the M20 and M50 have 1.4 bar caps.
    Question would then be: is it ok I'm using 2.0bar on an M50 motor?

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    By increasing the cap pressure, and therefore cooling system pressure, the heat capacity of the cooling system is increased. The M42 outputs less power, and most likely does not throw out as much heat as an M5x. That's probably why the M42 has a 1.4 bar cap, and the M20 and M50 have 2.0 bar caps.

    The Euro E34 525i actually shared the same 440mm radiator as found in the 318is, but used a 2.0 bar radiator cap. So, you'll want to also use a 2.0 bar cap on your car.
    Fred, the bmw p/n's aren't matching up with the info you've mentioned above...would you happen to have the correct part number?

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  • 325Projectz
    replied
    use the m50 hose and cut it to size.

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  • MacBudd541
    replied
    When using the m42 radiator, which hoses do you use? I'm having a hard time finding an upper hose that works.

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  • Gnarles
    replied
    Originally posted by dude8383
    I gotta check my cap, I don't remember whether or not I pulled it off of my m42 radiator.

    Good to know though...
    I checked the cap on my 325i last night and I have a 1.4 bar cap as well.

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  • dreamchasin
    replied
    m50 radiator does me fine.

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by Fusion
    Just got back from track day, all is fine, temp needle stays right before 1/2.
    I do think that the hoses are harder with the 2.0 bar cap, that makes sense.
    The valves chattered again after the 25mins, I think I need to work out the oil cooler during the winter.
    I gotta check my cap, I don't remember whether or not I pulled it off of my m42 radiator.

    Good to know though...

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  • Fusion
    replied
    Just got back from track day, all is fine, temp needle stays right before 1/2.
    I do think that the hoses are harder with the 2.0 bar cap, that makes sense.
    The valves chattered again after the 25mins, I think I need to work out the oil cooler during the winter.

    Leave a comment:


  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    By increasing the cap pressure, and therefore cooling system pressure, the heat capacity of the cooling system is increased. The M42 outputs less power, and most likely does not throw out as much heat as an M5x. That's probably why the M42 has a 1.4 bar cap, and the M20 and M50 have 2.0 bar caps.

    The Euro E34 525i actually shared the same 440mm radiator as found in the 318is, but used a 2.0 bar radiator cap. So, you'll want to also use a 2.0 bar cap on your car.
    Originally posted by Fusion
    Should be 17 11 1 742 231
    Thanks Fusion!

    According to that part number its for the M42...

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...17&fg=05&hl=20

    Why would the M42 have a higher rating?

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  • Fusion
    replied
    Originally posted by dude8383
    Hey do you have the p/n for the 2bar cap? Realoem is showing me the 1.4bar for the 325i...

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...06&hg=17&fg=05

    Wut???
    Should be 17 11 1 742 231

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    That's the bleeder. You may have a tough time getting a new bleeder screw to thread in there and seal properly, unless you can get all of that crap out without damaging the plastic threads.
    So I got the rest of that epoxy shit out of there today, had to drill it out. But also realized something bad, there's a crack in the little neck where the bleeder screw threads in, that barely extends into the rest of the plastic housing at the top of the radiator. Also, when I finally chipped out the last of the epoxy that was down in the hole, a piece of something broke off inside the filler neck hole, and I don't know if it's a piece of epoxy, or an actual part of the radiator itself, but it looks like I might not be able to use this radiator after all, might just have to get a new one.

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  • Jand3rson
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    it's not the E30's fault that the E36 is a pile of shit. :p
    That might need to go in my sig with the other quote...

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by Fusion
    The whole problem was that the gaskets on the old cap were used/hard/squished.
    Bought a new 2bar cap, no more breathing and I'll report back on how it all works.
    Hey do you have the p/n for the 2bar cap? Realoem is showing me the 1.4bar for the 325i...

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...06&hg=17&fg=05

    Wut???

    Leave a comment:

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