How did this happen --- Clutch.

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  • graphikg
    replied
    Good, cuz my crank bolt is nice and tight now.


    Originally posted by evil_twin
    So wait... that would cause your car to stall? Please explain...
    My car couldnt make it past 2000 rpm under load. I am guessing that the stress on the pressure plate was too much for the broken drive straps and threw out the throwout bearing when it didnt need to and stall. I am not 100 percent sure what was happening in the bell housing. But it would religiously stall at around 2000rpm under load.

    Leave a comment:


  • RickSloan
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    the crank bolt holds the hub to the front of the crank, it doesn't have anything to do with the clutch.
    it does, because if it is loose it can throw the crank off balance and at high RPM's do exactly this to the pressure plate and cause Knocking at Idle

    Syncro325is will prob come back to this and explain more, but we replaced his PP 4 times before we figured out it was the crank bolt, tightened the crank bolt and it has been abused and fine since.

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Syncro325is
    loose crank nut/bolt is a possibility
    the crank bolt holds the hub to the front of the crank, it doesn't have anything to do with the clutch.

    Leave a comment:


  • evil_twin
    replied
    So wait... that would cause your car to stall? Please explain...

    Leave a comment:


  • graphikg
    replied
    ^^^ I would love to. But I ordered the E36 f1 racing stage 3 kit with the flywheel and have found out so far that the alignement tool has to be for the e30 (because of the getrag 260 sized pilot bearing differs from the ZF), and the lightweight chromoly flywheel does not bolt on due to the set bolt hole thingy on the block. The set hole thingy is too large for the holes on the flywheel and I am too chicken to shave it off.

    I am also concerned about the thickness of the flywheel over the lightened m20 one I had on there. It is almost an inch difference in thickness.

    Leave a comment:


  • DÌEGØ
    replied
    Originally posted by graphikg
    Ordered a new clutch (F1 racing stage 3). Think I am just throw in a new SSK kit, and tranny and block seals too.
    hey thats what I got (still sitting in my room) post up how it feels if u dont mind

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  • jasapp
    replied
    What brand of pressure plate is that? Are you running an S52?

    I've been having similar trouble (http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=175900)

    I've been running a Sachs 618 now for two weeks with no trouble. I'm still holding my breath though.

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  • Van Westervelt
    replied
    Shift happens.

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  • 1990m3
    replied
    i broke a strap on my pressure plate years ago on an upshift at about 7500RPM. Sachs part in my e30 m3, it was under a year and they replaced it under warranty. Looked like yours, was sheared in half

    Leave a comment:


  • u3b3rg33k
    replied


    This is NOT how they're supposed to look.


    THIS is how they're supposed to look:




    As for what happened to it, my best guess is you happened to it.

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  • graphikg
    replied
    Any input on how the clutch can react like this by a crank bolt which is not torqued enough.

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  • zav3n
    replied
    i blew my pressure plate 4 times in 2 months, turns out my thrust Main bearings is worn out and there is too much lateral play on the crankshaft. so it would blow every time i bounced revlimter. m50/getrag 240 euro 323t/o bearing.

    Leave a comment:


  • graphikg
    replied
    Originally posted by Syncro325is
    loose crank nut/bolt is a possibility
    No Way?!? Syncro, can you please explain this... Because I know my crank bolt wasnt to spec when this happened.

    Leave a comment:


  • nrubenstein
    replied
    The stock pressure plate does not take abuse well.

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  • Syncro325is
    replied
    loose crank nut/bolt is a possibility

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