m50 swap - lot of pressure in coolant system

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dreamchasin
    No R3VLimiter
    • Feb 2009
    • 3890

    #1

    m50 swap - lot of pressure in coolant system

    So my m50 swap ran perfectly fine for a few days when i first dropped it in a month or so ago. Then it started overheating out of the blue. Building up pressure in the system like crazy. Didn't really drive it til yesterday. Turned out the hose to the heater core was kinked so i fixed it today so where it's not kinked anymore. every line is free flowing. Put it all back together and it overheated again, what the fuck. My buddy had a spare m42 radiator to replace my m50 radiator. Put it in and it runs fine, no overheating..yet. When i got it home today i noticed the radiator hoses were somewhat stiff (yet again). His hoses with the same setup are no where near like mine, they are somewhat squishy. We don't understand how there is so much (maybe air?) in the system. I let it run for a while and everything, air bubbles just keep coming out of no where. I don't really have heat unless im driving. When i'm driving it. the heat is beastin. If it's idling for a while, it gets colder to BARELY warm. I don't understand it at all. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Any questions just ask <3


    90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.
  • e30s50dan
    R3VLimited
    • Nov 2008
    • 2076

    #2
    Is your thermostat in corectly and with arrow up? I drilled a small 1/8 hole in mine. Makes it easy to blead. Btw your hoses will be stiff when hot
    NASA
    BMWCCA member
    PCA member 25yrs




    1991 318IS slick top
    1997 M3 sedan
    2001 325CI DD

    “whoever turns the wheel the least, wins"

    Comment

    • Luis325
      No R3VLimiter
      • Jun 2009
      • 3847

      #3
      Could be air in the lines or can be a bad thermostat?
      sigpic
      1986 "C2 2.7 Alpina" Sedan
      1987 325ic Black Vert
      1986 327i Red Track Car RIP 10/10/10
      1989 325is Henna S50 track car SOLD


      Transaction feedback here please!!
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170548

      Comment

      • dreamchasin
        No R3VLimiter
        • Feb 2009
        • 3890

        #4
        Originally posted by e30s50dan
        Is your thermostat in corectly and with arrow up? I drilled a small 1/8 hole in mine. Makes it easy to blead. Btw your hoses will be stiff when hot
        All in correctly. They're supposed to be stiff when hot? shit, let me go check them now, i'll post in a few minutes. It's all cooled down now.

        Originally posted by Luis325
        Could be air in the lines or can be a bad thermostat?
        Brand new thermostat (doesn't mean it isn't bad), but it does open, only when it goes passed half on the gauge.


        90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

        Comment

        • dreamchasin
          No R3VLimiter
          • Feb 2009
          • 3890

          #5
          Sorry, r3v likes to give me "Page cannot be displayed" errors 24/7. I went out and the hoses are very squishy, not stiff at all. When the car is hot the hoses are very stiff, I don't think they are supposed to be that stiff though are they?


          90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

          Comment

          • jlevie
            R3V OG
            • Nov 2006
            • 13530

            #6
            Excessive pressure in the cooling system after driving the car and poor performance of the heater can be from a failure to fully bleed the system, or from a leaking head gasket. In this case I suspect the head gasket since attempts to bleed the system result in continuous bubbles.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment

            • White325is
              R3V Elite
              • Oct 2006
              • 5947

              #7
              How do you have the lines hooked up going into your heater core?
              The hose off the back of the head goes to the bottom line on the core and the hose coming from the front of the motor goes to the top of the core.
              Also, when you bleed your cooling system you need to have your heat on full blast to help push the air through the system. It helps to raise the front of the car up on ramps or park on a hill to be able to let the air to rise out of the rad.
              If need be you will have to hold the rpms up to 2.5k for a bit and then let it drop down for a bit and do it again.
              When I did a customers car it took me 1.5 hours to get the cooling system to bleed out correct. Sometimes it just happens within minutes.
              Good luck.

              Comment

              • dreamchasin
                No R3VLimiter
                • Feb 2009
                • 3890

                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie
                Excessive pressure in the cooling system after driving the car and poor performance of the heater can be from a failure to fully bleed the system, or from a leaking head gasket. In this case I suspect the head gasket since attempts to bleed the system result in continuous bubbles.
                I think the headgasket is bad too, but it's so confusing. When i take the oil cap off there is yellow creamy shit built up on it. but when i check the oil there is no creamy shit on the dipstick. just clean oil.

                EDIT: nothing comes out of the head gasket externally. internally i am unsure. Also, i am running pretty much 3/4 water and 1/4 coolant. so i dont see how that would make the yellowish shit on the oil cap. i would think it would be real watery oil.


                90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

                Comment

                • blackhawkimpact
                  R3VLimited
                  • Apr 2010
                  • 2415

                  #9
                  Is it something like this?


                  What does the oil on the dipstick look like?

                  Comment

                  • dreamchasin
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 3890

                    #10
                    yeah looks like that. oil on the dipstick tube is clean.


                    90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

                    Comment

                    • DREWHALL
                      E30 Fanatic
                      • Feb 2006
                      • 1207

                      #11
                      That is what oil and water mixed looks like. The level of actual coolant in the cooling sytem doesn't really determine what the slush looks like. It definitely sounds like a head gasket/cracked head.

                      Comment

                      • dreamchasin
                        No R3VLimiter
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 3890

                        #12
                        Originally posted by DREWHALL
                        That is what oil and water mixed looks like. The level of actual coolant in the cooling sytem doesn't really determine what the slush looks like. It definitely sounds like a head gasket/cracked head.
                        Yeah I thought so, time to source another m50 :D


                        90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

                        Comment

                        • StereoInstaller1
                          GAS
                          • Jul 2004
                          • 22679

                          #13
                          Do a compression test

                          Closing SOON!
                          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                          Comment

                          • JSWIFT
                            Noobie
                            • Nov 2010
                            • 19

                            #14
                            Second the compression test. Also, if you have access to a pressure differential tester, do that too. Also, can't believe no body mentioned water pump. Failed water pump (plastic impeller probably broken) will cause overheat and heat out of vents to drop at idle.

                            Comment

                            • dreamchasin
                              No R3VLimiter
                              • Feb 2009
                              • 3890

                              #15
                              Originally posted by JSWIFT
                              Second the compression test. Also, if you have access to a pressure differential tester, do that too. Also, can't believe no body mentioned water pump. Failed water pump (plastic impeller probably broken) will cause overheat and heat out of vents to drop at idle.
                              Composite impeller. It over heats and cold air comes out on idle and sometimes while driving because somehow air is getting into my cooling system. which could only be my headgasket or a cracked head.


                              90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

                              Comment

                              Working...