E30 with M50, Blower Motor Replacement
My blower motor went bad so I ordered a new one. Im in the process of removing the old blower motor and it doesnt have nearly enough space to be removed. I was wondering if anybody had figured out an easier way to remove the blower than say, taking the fuel injector harness and coil rail off the motor. Any help would be appreciated.
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remove the motor.... -
wait till you have to do the wiper linkage! it was SO tempting for me to go that routeremove the motor....Comment
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You could probably just lower the motor/subframe enough to access the blower.
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bingoComment
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2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd
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my wiper motor is actually bad too, so that is coming in monday, lowering the subframe has definitely come to mind in my list of possibilitiesComment
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I think you can just muscle the old one out. The new ones fines should be flexible enough to slide it in there. Takes a few tries.Comment
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Is the blower motor definitely bad? The resistor pack on these can go bad and prevent the blower motor from working, that's why I ask.. I went in after the blower motor on my S52 car and after putting straight power and ground to the motor I found that it was working and the resistor pack was just blown. That resistor pack is easy to change with the 24v engine in place.
The blower motor, on the other hand, is not. I was lucky that I didn't have to change mine, but then a week later I had to change one in a customer's M50 E30. Some coincidence, right? Anyway, it was easy enough like 325issguy said. No parts were harmed. I did also do a good bit of fuel system work to that car and I know the fuel rail was out at some point in time. Not sure if that was removed when I did the blower motor or not..
If you want to make it a cake walk(er, sort of) and not have to bend/pull/pry the blower motor you could disconnect the exhaust, trans mount, and center support bearing. This would allow you to support the engine, remove the engine mounts, and safely lower the engine 2-3 inches (or until the oil pan contacts the subframe/steering rack).
Good luck. Having a functioning blower motor rocks.Comment
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^It's just a theory. I'm shooting from the hip, but I'm also aware of how big of a difference even a half of an inch would make with the blower motor replacement. Seriously, 1/2" would be all of the difference in the world.
I could be wrong, by the way.. It's been months (or maybe even a year) since I did this.Comment
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The blower motor is bad, theres no doubt about it, its still usable (noisy as hell) but anything over speed two and it shakes the whole dash. I definitely agree 1/2" would make a big difference and I was thinking about doing just what you said by disconnecting the exhaust and lowering the motor but also considered the fact that my oil pan is very close to the steering rack just like graphikg stated. Unfortunately I haven't had enough time to really try it again. Hopefully by the end of the week I will be able to give it another shot.Comment
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Successfully replaced the blower motor. I had to remove the fuel injector and coil harness rail which only took less than ten minutes, then heated up the fins on the blower with a heat gun and it allowed the blower motor to slip past the intake manifold and the fuel rail. The heat made the fins way more flexible than they were. Just thought I would post to help anybody that may be in the same situation. Thanks for the ideas and help though guys.Comment
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Congrats on getting it fixed. I drove my car for a 5 months (through the winter...) a couple years ago without a blower motor.. It's definitely good that you've got it working!Comment
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