What exactly has to be done to the 944 booster to be able to use it? i have my e30 and m50 swap sitting now for a few months and i think its time to get it going.
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Get an m10x1.5 die, run it down the existing threads on the input rod and continue on to the non threaded part till you can't thread no more. Leave die on the rod.
Measure the stock e30 booster from part that sits on the firewall to the tip of the rod.
Cut porsche booster rod to new measurement.
Remove die.
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Originally posted by herlsy View PostGet an m10x1.5 die, run it down the existing threads on the input rod and continue on to the non threaded part till you can't thread no more. Leave die on the rod.
Measure the stock e30 booster from part that sits on the firewall to the tip of the rod.
Cut porsche booster rod to new measurement.
Remove die.1989 332IS -S-Fiddy Four-Some weight removed.
5 lug E36 M3 Brakes Coilovers and LTW's and No ABS.
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Something else you can do besides re-tapping the pushrod is to just cut it off, and weld an M10x1.5 bolt to it, that's what we did with mine, worked perfectly fine.
I think the 944 booster is the best option because you don't have to do any modification to the firewall or the manifold, and it has as much capacity as the stock E30 booster, while being smaller in diameter. The E21 booster is not as powerful, and the iX/7-series boosters require remotely locating the fluid reservoir, which I don't think looks as good.
Just make sure whatever you do, that you adjust the clevis/fork at the end that attaches to the brake pedal arm back to the right spot. We had mine out too far, and it caused an issue wherein the master cylinder wasn't releasing all the way, and allowing so much pressure to build up in the booster that it locked the brakes after a short time, immobilizing the car.
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Originally posted by Janderson View PostiX/7-series boosters require remotely locating the fluid reservoir, which I don't think looks as good.
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