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wanting to go 24v swap, have a few questions

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    wanting to go 24v swap, have a few questions

    so for a while ive been really wanting to go with a 24 valve swap. now ideally i'd like to go with a s50/52 swap, but i dont feel like spending that money. now in addition i would like to turbo the car, so i would not bother putting the engine in the car without building it. i actually wanna craft together my own engine build. piece by piece. i want to have at atleast a 3 litre sized engine. also if ive said anything that sounds absolutely absurd of ridiculous dont judge. i dont know much about engines, but hey everyones gotta start somewhere. on with the questions. also im not looking to go the cheap route and i also dont want to spend a bunch of money of stupid shit that doesnt make that big of a difference. also if theres anything that i have missed here. just post up what else you think i would need. im ideally looking to make 300-350 whp at the most. also im in no rush for this build. it can take me up to a year and i wont care.

    1. whats the ideal block that i should go with?
    2. Head?
    3. Cams?
    4. Crank?
    5. Pistons?
    6. Rods?
    7. Springs?
    8. Intake manifold?

    thanks :)
    Originally posted by evandael
    a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

    #2
    Dear lord you are high in a kite...everything you say contradicts one another. Let me help you =)

    "now ideally i'd like to go with a s50/52 swap, but i dont feel like spending that money." (1,500-3k depending on motor) then you need to collect the needed swap parts.

    "i would like to turbo the car, so i would not bother putting the engine in the car without building it. i actually wanna craft together my own engine build. piece by piece"

    This cost more then a plain old s5X swap. To do a proper turbo setup will run you around 3k min doing it yourself. Nonshitty turbo manifolds will run you 500+ EASY. This is not counting fuel management and the HUGE list of other needed parts to hit the numbers you are looking for. You can get a setup from Good & Tight for 2,800 and still have to buy a turbo(600-whatever) you will also need a motor too!

    Any motor takes boost very well. So if you are going to use an //M motor just leave it be and enjoy the N/A power(long run it is cheaper). If you want boost the cheapest way is to get an M50/52 or a M30. You can nail 300+ whp easy with a really nice garrett turbo, thick head gasket and APR head bolts. I am new to the turbo info because I am in the middle of a build. But it is not cheap and takes work, in the end it is well worth it! Also the PISHHHhh sounds amazing =)

    And then there is the biggest problem, YOU. I am sorry to be blunt but you can just read up the FI section and you happened to post in the 24v section so start there too. So I don't see you doing anything but posting dumb shit and buying a WRX.

    If you want it the info is at your grasp. JUST read and read and then read some more. Oh read builds in the project section. They are like an old picture movie! there is words and pictures and it really just plays the whole thing out.

    It just sounds like you want someone to make a list of parts and walk you through what to buy. P.S. there is a search function, IT IS AMAZING!
    Last edited by F34R; 02-28-2011, 09:12 PM.
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      #3
      im ideally looking to make 300-350 whp at the most
      Bottom line is, the pump fuel is 91 octane only and it's pushing $4 a gallon, Bone stock M50 engines are knocking, then imagine if you turbo it.

      Comment


        #4
        Yeah, uh, if you can't even do any research at all, you can't pull this off. Also, you don't have enough money to do it and given where you're starting from, you don't have a grasp of the time span either.

        Sorry, but your questions show that you haven't even looked at any of the information that is out there. Go back and do a little bit of reading and you'll have at least 5 of the 8 questions answered. And that's if you're completely half assed about it.
        2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
        2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
        1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
        1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
        - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
        1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
        1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

        Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
        Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

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          #5
          A: thank you for replying. like i said im probably completely wrong, but hey doesnt hurt to dream lol
          Originally posted by E30 F34R View Post
          Dear lord you are high in a kite...
          i love being high tho....

          hmm so i plan on going with a m52 swap. ideally whats the best m52 to pickup? m52tu b28? so lets say i get a m52, other than thicker HG and ARP bolts, is there anything i need to do to the engine?
          i know i have to do alot of reading, but im just a lazy fuck. but i guess i actually have to start doing research...
          Originally posted by evandael
          a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by HakenTT View Post
            Bottom line is, the pump fuel is 91 octane only and it's pushing $4 a gallon, Bone stock M50 engines are knocking, then imagine if you turbo it.

            Wat?

            '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Adrian_Visser View Post
              Wat?
              Adrian, have you even driven M3 1996-1999? Under the fuel gauge there is a sticker that tells you "91 octane only". Then when you add stuff to make more power, that means minimum fuel required should be 93 octane or higher. 3.0L engine to produce 350hp at the wheel will require higher octane fuel that you can't even buy at the pump.

              Comment


                #8
                Ok I just got to say Haken, you obviously know nothing about tuning. Running 350 is easy on 91 octane. It isn't about the octane much at all. It is about compression ratios, ignition timing, and AFR. I have a buddy who is running a turbo m20 with 350 to the wheels... no knock. If you know shit about performance tuning then you'd be able to produce higher HPs without crap reasoning. Do some research.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Go S50. Honestly it'll make you smile for a few years at least and with everything included you're looking at a solid $5,500 for the swap. Unless you're Luke. Then it'll be $400 total. But, that's unheard of shennangins.
                  Need a part? PM me.

                  Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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