S52 OBD1 cranks but won't start

[hammslice]

have you tried verifying spark? pull a coil leave it plugged in stick a plug in it and ground it on a vc bolt.

No Spark.

[328ijunkie]

have you tried verifying spark? pull a coil leave it plugged in stick a plug in it and ground it on a vc bolt.

[samiam3356]

Interesting, I have an s52 converted to OBD1 and they are different. Crank has a male connector FOR SURE

[hammslice]

cam sensor and crank sensor connectors switched??

No. Checked several times.

Crank is male the the cam is female.

For OBD1, the harness connections are both female.

[hammslice]

Just a short update: did some work with the multimeter today and verified continuity between every pin at the DME interface and the corresponding function location. Found nothing that didn't jive with te bentley diagrams. Also checked the resistance on all the injectors and they were all 14.7+/-0.1 ohms. (24lb).

Only thing that looked a little off was that the casing of the 240 ohm resistor in line from the coil pack ground splice to the thermostat flange ground was cracked. Resistance checked out though.

[hammslice]

Tried another red label DME today. No go.

DME is known to have been working (e46s54dr ran it for two years). The VIN says its from a 95 525. I wonder if it has EWS? It appears to be unopened.

Too frustrated to really look at anything else at the moment. My key seems to be acting up now too. It only works sometimes when I put extra force inward on the key. Like the key cylinder isn't positioned properly.

[samiam3356]

Crank is male the the cam is female.

[e30rapidic]

cam sensor and crank sensor connectors switched??

[hammslice]

i spent the night redoing my ETM research. i did it based on build date, pretty sure i used model year before, to see if it made a difference. i got the same result.


C101 pin# Wire Color (E30 Chasis) Function Wire Color (E36 Engine) x20 Pin #
1 Blue Alternator Blue 25
2 Blue/Black Oil Lvl Static Red (Homemade)
3 -- --
4 Brown/Purple Coolant Temp Brown/Purple 12
5 Black/Brown Oil Pressure Brown/Grey 23
6 Green/Yellow Diagnostic Power/O2 Heater/Fuse 9 Green/White 22
7 Green Switched Ignition/OBC Code Relay Green 21
8 Yellow/White Fuel Economy White/Black 24
9 Black Tachometer Black 20
10 Purple/Green Oil Lvl Dynamic Green (Homemade)
11 White/Blue SI Reset White/Green 19
12 Brown/Black Check Engine Grey 8
13 Purple/Red Fuel Pump Relay Green/Violet 13
14 Blue/Yellow Speed Black/White 14
15 Black/Green Starter Unloader Black/Green 15
16 White/Black SRS Diagnostic/Not Used ??
17 -- --
18 Black/Yellow Starter Ignition Black/Yellow 18
19 -- --
20 Red/Yellow ABS

x20 Pin # Wire Color (E36 Engine) Function Notes
1 -- E34 Oil Lvl
2 -- E34 Oil Lvl/E36 M3 A/C VANOS control
3 -- Brake Signal (Auto Only)
4 Black/Blue A/C Compressor Control
5 Black/Grey A/C Pressure Switch
6 Purple/Grey DME Climate Control
7 Black/Violet Start Immobilizer
8 Grey Check Engine Light
9 -- M3 Oil temp
10 Blue/Yellow Reverse Light Signal
11 Brown/Yellow Coolant Temp 2
12 Brown/Purple Coolant Temp 1
13 Green/Violet Fuel Pump Relay
14 Black/White Speed
15 Black/Green Starter Unloader
16 White/Yellow Data Link RXD
17 White/Purple Data Link TXD
18 Black/Yellow Starter Ignition
19 White/Green Service Interval Reset
20 Black Tachometer
21 Green DME Power
22 Green/White Reverse Light/Data Link Power
23 Brown/Grey Oil Pressure
24 White/Black Fuel Consumption
25 Blue Alternator

[hammslice]

SI reset is now in the correct place.

Start Immobilizer is now in pin 16 but I'm not sure I fully understand this. I rechecked the ETMs and E30 Pin 16 goes between the diagnostic connector and the SRS module.



RealOEM.com puts my DME from a car with a build date of 10/1993, so EWS should not be an issue.

Still no start.

I'm working on checking continuity and haven't come across any that don't make sense as of yet.

[hoveringuy]

I think this is where I goofed. I have the immobilizer SW/VI hooked up to SI reset BL/WS. And SI reset WS/GN hooked up to WS/SW.

That would totally be consistent with the problems you're having. It's been done many times before.

Just to help confuse things, I have an early production SILVER label ECU that doesn't have EWS...

[hammslice]

i think there are a few other things in the wiring you should look at.

I made the notes mostly at a computer and not out at the actual car. Now that everything is in the car, it may be easier to trace any errors. I have also printed the ETMs and will have them with me in the garage tonight.

edit: dont be fooled by dme label color. there are some red labels that have ews installed.

sneaky! first time i've heard that.

[Jason89i]

i think there are a few other things in the wiring you should look at. however, its a bit confusing thumbing through your notes. ive made an xl spreadsheet to help stay organized. it is probabily overkill, but it makes trouble shooting much easier if needed. make one for each vehicle, then just mate them up.

pin# - wire color (harness) - wire color (chassis) - function - where to where

cheers, jason

edit: dont be fooled by dme label color. there are some red labels that have ews installed.

[hammslice]

This drawing is really cool..... Do you have it in a higher res? I would make a large print and put it on the wall in my garage.

When I get a chance I will scan it again. Just have the "screen res" version right now, but the original 8.5x11 is out in the garage.

[hammslice]

x20 p7 . . . sw/vi . what did you do with this? its for the start imobilizer.

did your 94e36 x20 have (2) green wires or (1) gn and (1) sw/vi? your notes are conflicting.

The notes that mention two green wires was me tracing the colors through the stock c101 because not every wire maintains it's color from the engine to the body.

Pin 66 on the dme is SW/VI. What kind of signal/when is this wire looking for?

I think this is where I goofed. I have the immobilizer SW/VI hooked up to SI reset BL/WS. And SI reset WS/GN hooked up to WS/SW. Speaking in the direction from motor to body. Hopefully I can swap these after work and give it another go.