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Windows won't go up after 24v and 5spd swap

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    Windows won't go up after 24v and 5spd swap

    Got done doing my S50 / 5spd swap yesterday and my windows won't go up?

    Checked the fuse and made sure I didn't un-wire anything while I was installing the pedal set.

    I'm sure I'm missing somethings stupid.

    It just seems like swapping a motor and engine should have no effect on my window function???

    Ideas??


    --->>>1988 SETA 2.7i Build Thread (Turbo Prep)<<<---

    #2
    maybe you bumped the circuit breaker switch on your center console. the little grey looking switch usually on the right
    Originally posted by blunttech
    r3v does not fuck around. First you get banned, then they shoot you

    Comment


      #3
      I believe it is the unloader relay that needs to be jumped. Honestly I forget but I am pretty sure that is it, do a search

      Comment


        #4
        Sharky has it, your heater fan is off, too.

        On your starter there is a green/black wire. It has its very own terminal on the starter. That terminal provides +12V while cranking, but ground otherwise.

        If you want to thrown caution to the wind and chance the possibility of a typhoon hitting Oklahoma, you can simply ground that green/black...but don't touch that window switch when cranking the motor or we shall all surely perish.

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

        Comment


          #5
          Bring it over Sat. and we'll fuck it up good.

          Originally posted by 325Projectz
          don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
          :nice:

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
            Sharky has it, your heater fan is off, too....
            You must be right as the blower motor is off as well... Didn't notice till you said something.

            Is the relay replaceable or do I have to buy a new starter?

            Originally posted by Mr.SWISS View Post
            Bring it over Sat. and we'll fuck it up good.

            Ha, I'll be there around 1. If I can get the coolant issue worked out. Still trying to think throw how to bleed the coolant system.


            --->>>1988 SETA 2.7i Build Thread (Turbo Prep)<<<---

            Comment


              #7
              its more likely its your wiring to the relay rather then the relay itself.


              Originally posted by Overlord475 View Post
              You must be right as the blower motor is off as well... Didn't notice till you said something.

              Is the relay replaceable or do I have to buy a new starter?



              Ha, I'll be there around 1. If I can get the coolant issue worked out. Still trying to think throw how to bleed the coolant system.


              Full Build Thread Here

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Overlord475 View Post
                Is the relay replaceable or do I have to buy a new starter?


                Did you not read the instructions I offered? It is a 2 minute fix.

                Closing SOON!
                "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                  Did you not read the instructions I offered? It is a 2 minute fix.
                  I did. Thought you were saying that I could fix it that way but it was more of quick fix rather than the right way.


                  --->>>1988 SETA 2.7i Build Thread (Turbo Prep)<<<---

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Definitely test the scenario by using a jumper on the relay terminals first.

                    Starters can be bad, i went through this experience with 2 Autozone 'rebuilt' starters.

                    The starter was not grounding itself internally, so i grounded it externally by running a jumper wire from the terminal where the green black goes, to the terminal with the braided wire.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Overlord475 View Post
                      I did. Thought you were saying that I could fix it that way but it was more of quick fix rather than the right way.
                      You should see 2 terminals on your starter. Test them, you will see 1 switch from +12V to ground, that is the one that gets the unloader wire.

                      Closing SOON!
                      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok, so ground the terminal post on the starter not just the black/green wire.

                        Had a test today and didn't get to looking into the Unloader issue yet.


                        --->>>1988 SETA 2.7i Build Thread (Turbo Prep)<<<---

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                          Sharky has it, your heater fan is off, too.

                          On your starter there is a green/black wire. It has its very own terminal on the starter. That terminal provides +12V while cranking, but ground otherwise.

                          If you want to thrown caution to the wind and chance the possibility of a typhoon hitting Oklahoma, you can simply ground that green/black...but don't touch that window switch when cranking the motor or we shall all surely perish.
                          Close, you got the symptom...but not the problem. Grey with black stripe in x20 not connected, grounded out and WTF everything works. IIRC it was pin 5 for the unloader relay ground. I told him explicitly to hook up all 4 wires on the starter and he did. It had us boggled for a minute too though, I grounded the pin like you said and noda, jumped K5 and blower is going, traced circiut back from relay terms and waddyaknow. unloader circuilt not grounded mutha fuckkkk. :dot:
                          Last edited by Mr.SWISS; 03-27-2011, 09:21 AM. Reason: oops x20 not 101
                          Originally posted by 325Projectz
                          don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
                          :nice:

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Samething happened to me with my m52 swap.its pin 15 on your old plug just add some wire to it and ground it on something and that should do it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Last couple posts did the trick for my swap. I just have a bad power connection to the passenger side door window which I'll soon rework. It was bad before the swap so sine I've regained my pre swap problem I know where to go. Thanks for all the help.
                              sigpic

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