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I used a Stock Brake booster with a m50 swap..

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    I used a Stock Brake booster with a m50 swap..

    I am a newb on this forum, but not to BMWs and I though I would share my experience. So after much debate about using a porsche 944 booster, an ix booster, or 320 booster, I said F it and used the stock 1988 brake booster in a m50 swap. All I had to do was grind the back 4 fins on the intake manifold and raise the engine about 1/2" on the drivers side. NO FITMENT ISSUES AT ALL.. Drive shaft sits straight.. everything looks and runs good. Is there some kind of potential problem that I missed that someone may have done in the past similar to my setup? I don't see anything so far.. Only thing I "had" to do was use electric fans, but I was gonna do that anyway. Any input from this community would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

    #2
    report back in 6 months.......
    Originally posted by 325Projectz
    don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
    :nice:

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      #3
      I used a stock booster as well, but I notched the holes to mount it onto the firewall. Moved it over an inch or so, along with shaving the fins on the intake manifold. I used to run 1/2" spacers I machined out of aluminum at a buddies house to raise the oil pan. I took them out the other day when I dropped in another m50 (since the other one blew up, stupid kinked coolant hose). Fits better now, but I never had any issues. You pretty much have to run an electric fan with a 24v swap, supposedly if you use a fan clutch it is incredibly close to the radiator and might hit.


      90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

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        #4
        That's what I did. Just drilled 4 new holes and moved stock brake booster 1/2"
        I had to grind some of the fins on IM for better clearing. For the electric fan I think I want to use A/C fan but will see. Anyone have done it?
        "i love vee tek, its a wonderful sound when you driving right by it"

        If you bought anything from me, please leave a feedback here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ghlight=drulle

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          #5
          So you moved the motor a 1/2 inch instead of the booster. One of them has to move. either the booster or the motor.

          Originally posted by Roysneon
          $5 shipped?
          Originally posted by MarkD
          You are a strange dude, I'n not answering any more posts from you.

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            #6
            I moved the booster over 1/2" this weekend, boy was that a pain in the ass, noone ever said anything about trimming the brake pedal bracket as the thing gets in the way.
            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

            Originally posted by Wh33lhop
            VANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.

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              #7
              Originally posted by trackjunkie21 View Post
              i moved the booster over 1/2" this weekend, boy was that a pain in the ass, noone ever said anything about trimming the brake pedal bracket as the thing gets in the way.

              surprise!!
              world renown Harry Potter expert
              sigpic

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                #8
                you lifted one side of your engine 1/2"? ..... have you got the transmission and everything installed yet?


                Full Build Thread Here

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by trackjunkie21 View Post
                  I moved the booster over 1/2" this weekend, boy was that a pain in the ass, noone ever said anything about trimming the brake pedal bracket as the thing gets in the way.
                  lol i just moved mine over this weekend as well. i didnt trim the bracket though, i just went as close to it as possible and didnt put a nut on the bolt. we"ll see how she fits when i drop the motor in!

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by drulle View Post
                    That's what I did. Just drilled 4 new holes and moved stock brake booster 1/2"
                    I had to grind some of the fins on IM for better clearing. For the electric fan I think I want to use A/C fan but will see. Anyone have done it?
                    That does seem like a pain in the ass.. I just put some stainless washers on the drivers mount until it fit in with a 1/4" of clearance between the motor and booster.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by MattM View Post
                      you lifted one side of your engine 1/2"? ..... have you got the transmission and everything installed yet?

                      The car is delivered to the customer and he is driving it as we speak!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by drulle View Post
                        That's what I did. Just drilled 4 new holes and moved stock brake booster 1/2"
                        I had to grind some of the fins on IM for better clearing. For the electric fan I think I want to use A/C fan but will see. Anyone have done it?
                        I've been using the OEM AUX fan mounted on euro brackets since the my m50 went in with no issue at all in traffic or at autox. I don't have a condenser and I use the temp switch from a 318ti and an 80 degree thermostat.


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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Voluted View Post
                          I've been using the OEM AUX fan mounted on euro brackets since the my m50 went in with no issue at all in traffic or at autox. I don't have a condenser and I use the temp switch from a 318ti and an 80 degree thermostat.


                          http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...73&hg=17&fg=10
                          the 318 temp switch is a good idea, the the 80c thermostat is not. the engine and electronics are all designed to run warmer than that. so be it if the fan kicks on early, but allowing the coolant to run at that lower temp isn't doing anything for you other than making your engine run wrong. change it out for the stock one. if you want to fix your cooling issues, go get your hands on a 750i aux fan and use that. there is a writeup here in another thread about 24v cooling attached to my screen name. you can search for it if you are currious.

                          shimming your engine to miss the stock booster is also a bad idea. it is very imprortant that the drive shaft be in perfect alignment. it can not possibly be if you shim the driver side of the motor. it is much better to slot the booster holes and move it over to the left side of the car.
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                          88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
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                            #14
                            Do you really think 8*C is enough to keep it on the warm up cycle all the time?

                            '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

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                              #15
                              When I first put my S52 in I was paranoid about overheating so I put in the coldest available thermostat (2 steps colder, forget exact temp). Weak heat, never even came close to registering on e30 guage...swapped it to next temp up (80*C I believe). Still weak heat, and still barely moved temp gauge. Swapped to normal M50/S52 whatever t-stat, (88* or 92*?) and all is well, gauge sits just past 1/4 when warm, absolutely no overheating issues (unless I forget to turn on the fan when sitting in traffic....definitely need to wire that up to a switch). Do you guys running colder t-stats get hot heat and your gauge to register?

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