S52/ZF UUC LTW Flywheel E34 OEM Clutch won't disengage

[hammslice]

I was just going on the info from UUC. "Note: slightly lighter clutch pedal effort may be experienced in M3, MZ3, Z3 2.8.*To maintain original clutch pedal feel, use the E36 325i slave cylinder (click here for part number and diagram), All other models retain original slave cylinder."

I got advise from a shop in town here to use the M3 slave and they had one that they sold me. I got the same result. I put the 325 one back on because it was in better shape. Maybe next time I am home I'll have to get a new M3 one from the dealer...

[Mr.SWISS]

I was just going on the info from UUC. "Note: slightly lighter clutch pedal effort may be experienced in M3, MZ3, Z3 2.8.*To maintain original clutch pedal feel, use the E36 325i slave cylinder (click here for part number and diagram), All other models retain original slave cylinder."

I got advise from a shop in town here to use the M3 slave and they had one that they sold me. I got the same result. I put the 325 one back on because it was in better shape. Maybe next time I am home I'll have to get a new M3 one from the dealer...

No it's not the part you got it's there is no room at all and you cannot usually get the slave lined up right. I installed my slave with the line on it and on the trans after I had the problems. Sucks to yank the tranny but it feels great to have it right.

[hammslice]

I know it sucks to pull the tranny I've done it at least 4 times trying to figure this out. Ha!

[e46s54dr]

Do you have a clutch stop installed by any chance? Maybe it might be set a little to high causing the clutch not to fully disengage? Prolly not your problem but its worth a shot.

Could it possibly be a leaky clutch master cylinder? Have you tried leaving the rear end jacked up, depressing the clutch in gear, then engaging the ebrake right away?

Just to clarify things, you're saying when the car is in gear with your foot pressing down on the clutch, there is still too much friction between the flywheel and pressure plate? If so, when driving around town, does the engine stall itself out at a stop light?

Lastly, is it me or is the gap between the pressure plate housing and pressure plate seem too small on your post on bimmerforums? I'm wondering if its a defective pressure plate? Do you feel that there is adaquate travel when stepping on the clutch?

[Wanganstyle]

sounds like master or slave is not happy (or bled)

does the clutch pedal spring back on its own? can you pump it up to get pressure (and make it operational).

if the entire kit is from UUC it should work just fine, both E36 ZF slaves and e36 325 Getrag G250 slaves will work with the UUC setup (says so on UUC website).

In the past I have successfully used a UUC complete LTW fly+e34m5 clutch setup direct from UUC with a zf 5 speed and e36M slave and s52 engine.

[Rob@UUC]

Dude if you are using a zf you HAVE to use the ZF slave. 96-99 M3/328i ONLY! no e36 325!!!!!

For clarification, the E36 325 slave does work perfectly.

The E36 M3 and E36 325 slaves are identical in every dimension except one, hydraulic bore size. Same mounting configuration, same pin length and travel, etc.

The difference in hydraulic bore size affects only one thing: pedal effort. The E36 325 slave is the same bore size as the original E34 M5 slave, so it matches the E34 pressure plate for "as-designed" pedal effort. The E36 M3 slave does work, of course, but the larger bore makes it over-assisted, the pedal effort is lighter than you would expect which some people do not like.

Hope that helps!

[gobuffs]

I got a $1 the throwout bearing is installed 90 degrees off. BTDT, was embarassed.

[5mall5nail5]

I got a $1 the throwout bearing is installed 90 degrees off. BTDT, was embarassed.

That could be, good call.

[e30rapidic]

I got a $1 the throwout bearing is installed 90 degrees off. BTDT, was embarassed.

i'm with you on this one as I feel the issue is somehow throwout bearing related....

[Wanganstyle]

I got a $1 the throwout bearing is installed 90 degrees off. BTDT, was embarassed.

It can be installed 90 deg off? Can u explain, interested as to mess up in the future. Does not the bearing have 2 flats to seat into the fork with?

[Mr.SWISS]

It can be installed 90 deg off? Can u explain, interested as to mess up in the future. Does not the bearing have 2 flats to seat into the fork with?

I don't see any other way to fit it with it being so tight in the fork on the flat spots. I guess some folks get creative....

[gobuffs]

If you have it 90 degrees off it will fall farther into the clutch fork so that when the slave pushes on the clutch fork it doesn't disengage the pressure plate. Like I said been there, done that.

[hammslice]

Do you have a clutch stop installed by any chance? Maybe it might be set a little to high causing the clutch not to fully disengage? Prolly not your problem but its worth a shot.

No clutch stop.

Could it possibly be a leaky clutch master cylinder? Have you tried leaving the rear end jacked up, depressing the clutch in gear, then engaging the ebrake right away?

No signs of leaking anywhere. I have tried this. It kills the motor.

Just to clarify things, you're saying when the car is in gear with your foot pressing down on the clutch, there is still too much friction between the flywheel and pressure plate? If so, when driving around town, does the engine stall itself out at a stop light?

Correct. I have only driven this car for a few minutes around the neighborhood. Started it in gear and just went. During that few minutes I depressed the clutch and hit the gas, the clutch slipped a little, but the car still accelerated. Pulling back into the driveway with the clutch pedal depressed, the engine stalled.

Lastly, is it me or is the gap between the pressure plate housing and pressure plate seem too small on your post on bimmerforums? I'm wondering if its a defective pressure plate? Do you feel that there is adaquate travel when stepping on the clutch?

The pedal feels fine. I have no frame of reference for what the gap should be to tell whether or not its defective. Based on other evidence, the pressure plate is definitely not bound, but maybe you are right and the clearances are off. I spoke with Rob@UUC in May when I first started having issues with this. He suggested that as well, but I didn't have time to pursue the other suggestions and that before I left the country. I asked him to try and remember my case, as it may take me a few years to get this resolved.

does the clutch pedal spring back on its own? can you pump it up to get pressure (and make it operational).

Clutch pedal feels "normal". Meaning, the last time I pushed the pedal in this car was in January and that was with the E30 hardware so I don't have anything to really compare normal as far as effort. Regarding function though, it is totally normal. Effort required and it springs back. No sticking to the floor, no bubbles coming up into the reservoir while pumping, etc.

In the past I have successfully used a UUC complete LTW fly+e34m5 clutch setup direct from UUC with a zf 5 speed and e36M slave and s52 engine.

Thanks for the confirmation. I was beginning to doubt.

I got a $1 the throwout bearing is installed 90 degrees off. BTDT, was embarassed.

First time I have heard that suggestion. Thanks for your sharing your experience, but you owe me a buck. :)

[gobuffs]

I guess I do.

How do the straps on the pressure plate look? Are the bolts tigthened down properly. Are the fingers on the pressure plate ok. The problem sounds like a pressure plate issue to me.

Are the flywheel bolts tight and the flywheel flush to the crank? The gall plate in place?

[hammslice]

All the fingers looked fine and none were binding. The straps don't have any obvious defects. But again i have no point of reference. All the bolts are good, flush, and torqued.