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  • Danny
    replied
    I would love to have the idle bump connected but I can't figure out how to on my 1990.

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  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Originally posted by mpowerful
    I didnt do that. Just relying on idle speed at normal. Car idles at 800. Runs it perfect.
    Even running an elevated idle, it's much better to have the bump connected. I've run it without, and it's just not as nice.

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  • mpowerful
    replied
    I didnt do that. Just relying on idle speed at normal. Car idles at 800. Runs it perfect.

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  • MC Hammered
    replied
    What line are you connecting the AC switch to at the ECU to trip the idle bump?

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  • mpowerful
    replied
    Did nothing. At first i ran on stock tune and it would lug the car down pretty good. Then i went to squid tune. I think for the ltw flywheel he bumped the idle a little so its hardly an issue at all.

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  • Danny
    replied
    Have not figured out the idle bump on my 90 yet.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    Originally posted by mpowerful
    I have a/c. E36 compressor, parallel flow condensor, new drier, same evap and expansion valve. I had lines made for e30 connections on body/condensor side with e36 comp fittings. R134. Blows cold as ice. Oh and stock aux wired to run in high with a/c on.
    What did you do for idle bump?

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  • mpowerful
    replied
    I have a/c. E36 compressor, parallel flow condensor, new drier, same evap and expansion valve. I had lines made for e30 connections on body/condensor side with e36 comp fittings. R134. Blows cold as ice. Oh and stock aux wired to run in high with a/c on.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wishno87
    replied
    Probably a dumb question but the wire for the compressor clutch doesn't get a signal unless there is pressure in the system correct? Just wanted to make sure things were working before I seal up the system.

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  • THEhomelessONE
    replied
    Any solution for m42 r12 folks yet? I saved the e36 m50 lines.

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  • ParsedOut
    replied
    I'll be doing my A/C in the next few months, I'll be sure to take plenty of pics.

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  • Wishno87
    replied
    Any new pics/developments on this?

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  • bimmerteck
    replied
    Originally posted by robgoesvroom
    Have you successfully done this? In for pics
    To stop the air escaping between the radiator and condenser I use a stick on high density foam from a local hardware store. Be sure it's a closed cell foam b/c it'll hold up longer. Stick it around the outside edges of the condenser then lean the condenser into position and it will press tight against the radiator essentially creating a shroud between the two to contain the air passing through the condenser and force it through the radiator as well.

    If it wasn't this particular product it was very similar. ;)

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  • robgoesvroom
    replied
    Originally posted by treff-7
    i kept the original condenser and used a 16" high speed pusher. it's not the spal but has pretty much the same specs for about half the price (i think). a bit thicker IIRC but still fits between the condenser and valance. there's one thing i noticed. however it won't let my engine overheat in LA traffic above 100F there's a lot of air escaping between the radiator and condenser. i'm planning on boxing in the condenser so all the air goes through the radiator and cools the water.
    Have you successfully done this? In for pics

    Leave a comment:


  • treff-7
    replied
    i kept the original condenser and used a 16" high speed pusher. it's not the spal but has pretty much the same specs for about half the price (i think). a bit thicker IIRC but still fits between the condenser and valance. there's one thing i noticed. however it won't let my engine overheat in LA traffic above 100F there's a lot of air escaping between the radiator and condenser. i'm planning on boxing in the condenser so all the air goes through the radiator and cools the water.

    Leave a comment:

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