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anyone else have this e30m50 problem?

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    #1

    anyone else have this e30m50 problem?

    I never really noticed this until i rode in a buddies e36....it was alot smoother than mine. I know its a shot in the dark, but heck, this is what this forum is about.

    SYMPTOMS:
    When deccelerating in second gear from 4000rpm down to 1800rpm, if you lightly squeeze the gas pedal there is a hesitation. it is not a smooth transition from "throttle off" to "throttle on." engine decceleration feels like "engine braking" rather than the smooth throttle off of other e36's.

    somtimes i get a few small backfires at 3k.

    I have also noticed that when i rev the car over 4000rpm and let the rpms fall to idle......all 6 injectors cut off at 2000rpm until idle speed, then the all start up together.

    CHECKED:
    Injectors not stuck (stethiscoped em)
    o2 sensor is reading (stoich meter normal)
    has newer tps
    different hfm no change

    GUESSES:
    the vehicle speed reference signal is not getting to the ecu......????
    Tags: None
    #2
    Have you read the codes? It will tell you if the engine speed signal is missing.

    The only thing I notice is a kinda hesitation when the engine is cold around the 3000 mark, not a stall but small throttle inputs give big results. A slight lift means engine breaking and a slight stab means a jump. It goes away when it warms up. My dads 98 M3 does it too, it just isnt as noticeable since that thing is a pig.
    Im now E30less.
    sigpic

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      #3
      Weird. I get that same jerky throttle response when cold, too.
      '91 318is
      sigpic

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        #4
        codes will be read first thing next week. but i have already found some problems.....

        update. i have ditermined the vanos selinoid is getting a signal w/ diode. however vanos is not kicking in like it should. not sure if selinoid or vanos unit yet.

        update. i followed the most common wiring chart on the internet (i wont slander because the owner is really a nice guy) and made about 4 corrections. but i missed one until now. the two green/violet wires DO NOT get spliced togeter. this will back feed some of the systems, including the 02 heater relay. i discovered it when testing the o2 sensor. the heater relay was not sending power to the o2 sensor heating element (sould be 12v between pins 3 and 4 on 02 sensor.) relay was not getting a ground signal but sending power in all the wrong places. I would highly recommend you check too.

        cheers.

        Comment

          #5
          Ill have to look. If you dont splice them together does only one get hooked up or is there another source for one and another?
          Im now E30less.
          sigpic

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            #6
            I hooked my car up to the GT1 last week and the two faults it had had to do with relay wiring- fuel and O2 sensor, I believe. I'm going to be replacing the engine harness anyways because my current one is all hacked up, but I'll make sure that everything is wired correctly this time.
            '91 318is
            sigpic

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              #7
              Originally posted by Brew
              I hooked my car up to the GT1 last week and the two faults it had had to do with relay wiring- fuel and O2 sensor, I believe. I'm going to be replacing the engine harness anyways because my current one is all hacked up, but I'll make sure that everything is wired correctly this time.
              fuel and o2 relays have combined wiring for e36's. check the o2 relay. green wire should be sending 12v directly to the o2 heater. likewise, the red/white wires should be 12v. i would bet that you are not getting the 12v .......and it is causing the red/white wires to backfeed too. disconnect the green/violet wires at the c101 and pull power (via fusable link) from fuse 11 (fuel pump fuse) to green/violet (e36 harness wire) at c101. i capped off the green/violet wire on the e30 side.

              car runs MUCH MUCH smoother as the o2 heater element is now working and the o2 sensor is getting the correct readings.

              cheers, jason

              Comment

                #8
                FYI Bump

                join the E30 Cabrio owners gruppe
                click here for details

                Comment

                  #9
                  Hmm, I don't have a fuel code, but I do have an o2 code when i idle long enough.
                  I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

                  Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

                  Delta Auto Care
                  2875-C Towerview Road
                  Herndon, VA
                  703.435.1375

                  My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin

                  Comment

                    #10
                    is this with the early e30 harness or later one?

                    my e30 goes into limp home mode, I pulled the codes before and rest after I thought I fixed it and it came back..

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Ryan Stewart View Post
                      The only thing I notice is a kinda hesitation when the engine is cold around the 3000 mark, not a stall but small throttle inputs give big results. A slight lift means engine breaking and a slight stab means a jump. It goes away when it warms up. My dads 98 M3 does it too, it just isnt as noticeable since that thing is a pig.
                      I get this too!!!

                      Originally posted by Jason89i View Post
                      fuel and o2 relays have combined wiring for e36's. check the o2 relay. green wire should be sending 12v directly to the o2 heater. likewise, the red/white wires should be 12v. i would bet that you are not getting the 12v .......and it is causing the red/white wires to backfeed too. disconnect the green/violet wires at the c101 and pull power (via fusable link) from fuse 11 (fuel pump fuse) to green/violet (e36 harness wire) at c101. i capped off the green/violet wire on the e30 side.

                      car runs MUCH MUCH smoother as the o2 heater element is now working and the o2 sensor is getting the correct readings.

                      cheers, jason
                      Thats very interesting. Im pretty sure i have this problem haha.
                      -Chris

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Jason89i View Post
                        fuel and o2 relays have combined wiring for e36's. check the o2 relay. green wire should be sending 12v directly to the o2 heater. likewise, the red/white wires should be 12v. i would bet that you are not getting the 12v .......and it is causing the red/white wires to backfeed too. disconnect the green/violet wires at the c101 and pull power (via fusable link) from fuse 11 (fuel pump fuse) to green/violet (e36 harness wire) at c101. i capped off the green/violet wire on the e30 side.

                        car runs MUCH MUCH smoother as the o2 heater element is now working and the o2 sensor is getting the correct readings.

                        cheers, jason

                        Jason,

                        Can you clarify on this? what year is your e30? and what year is your engine harness from? Do you have a pin to pin layout? I thought I had my wiring all figured out... till I saw this post.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Jason, can you comment some more on your post #7?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            It was an 89i (hence the user name) and the motor was out of a late 95 m50tu. There were some really strange things with that year.... like fuel pres reg in the gas tank, not on the fuel rail. (Never seen that on any other e36)

                            I just looked over my notes. (that was 5 years / 5 cars ago.) I dont see any notes that respond to WHY.... only how to fix it.

                            Ultimately what was happening (if my memory serves me correctly) ....the o2 relay was not juicing the heating element. I bypassed the fuse box with a fusable link and spade into the sending side of fuse 11. This was one instance where the wiring diagrams proved useless.

                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=80056


                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=76548


                            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=74958


                            Hey, thanks for sending the admins a note. I thought my membership here was over.

                            cheers, jason

                            Comment

                              #15
                              I had been wondering bout this. Thanks for your reply.

                              Comment

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