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wtf..e30 m50 won't stay running HELP!

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    wtf..e30 m50 won't stay running HELP!

    I have searched for hours, and cannot figure out what the hell is wrong with my car. Here it goes, full story.

    Car ran perfectly fine for a year (first m50 -until coolant line kinked then BOOM- and the current m50), and a hard line went. It sat for a while until I decided to get off my lazy ass and fix it. It was the hard line that goes into the master cylinder and runs to the soft line right below the brake booster. Went back to dailying it for a week. Then the day I bought my borbets, I went to the bank to get some money for them and on the way home I was slamming gears having fun being stoked I am finally buying my favorite wheels. As soon as I slammed 3rd I let off to make my turn, mid turn i have no power steering...great now my power steering went. That was until I went to hit the gas and went no where. Puzzled, I try to restart it, cranks, no fire, so I sat for a minute or two and tried to crank it, would crank until the battery died. My house was maybe 1/4 mile away down a hill. So I pushed it about 250 feet to the top of the hill, and halfway down the hill I decided to try and start it, fires up normal...now I am thinking wtf? I drive it into the parking spot and decide to take it for a spin to see if it does it again. I drive about 1.5 miles down the road and turn around, hasn't shut off, so I think well I was slamming gears before what if I do it now and see if it does it. So I slam 2nd and 3rd, let off, still running, so I get back home and make my u-turn to my parking spot and get next to my truck and poof shuts off again. At this point I am pissed, I am spending 1500 dollars on new wheels and have a car that won't stay running. I wasn't turning down the wheels so I dealt with it. Get the wheels and shit on park it, go out that night to work and starts perfect..alright..well I get 3/4 way to work BAM..dies. You have got to be kidding me. Except this time it starts up right away, no cranking forever. Well it dies about 5 more times (on 5 different drives, not all the same drive) so I park it til I can drive it 20 minutes away into allentown to a friend's mom's shop. So I drive it there and I am about 15 minutes into my trip with ZERO issues, sitting at a light, BAM turns off..fuck you..starts up perfectly..as i'm letting the clutch out (around 1100 RPMs) it shuts off again..now I am pissed. Starts right back up and get to the shop. We put a code reader on it and the only code it throws is (I believe the number was 73) with "Speed Sensor" or something like that. So I ask my friend's mom's boyfriend who runs the shop and he asked if my speedometer worked, yeah it works..he has no idea what it could be then. It made the drive home with no issues. It dies on complete randomness, there is no exact thing you have to do to make it shut off, it just picks a time/place and decides to shut off. It doesn't sputter AT ALL, it's like when you're on a computer and while you're on the computer you unplug the computer and it just shuts off instantly..that's exactly what my car does. You could be at 5k RPMs, it will be at 0 in a split second with the motor off in the same split second. I don't understand it, would greatly appreciate if you could help. I'll list the things I have replaced (just 4 little things).

    Replaced:
    -Main relay
    -Fuel pump relay
    -the other engine relay in that little area.
    -Plugs

    Cliffs:
    -Car ran perfect for a year
    -Car shuts off INSTANTLY at any given time
    -2 occasions it refused to restart
    -More than 5 occasions it just shut off but restarted
    -had a code reader on it, threw no codes except (i believe 73) speed sensor


    I don't believe I missed anything, thanks!


    EDIT: I have checked grounds, all are tight.


    90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

    #2
    I'm still new to the M50 world, but I've been around the M20 "randomly dying" block a view times, and this sounds like it could be your crank position sensor on top of your crank pulley.
    Originally posted by TSI
    ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
    OEM+

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      #3
      Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
      I'm still new to the M50 world, but I've been around the M20 "randomly dying" block a view times, and this sounds like it could be your crank position sensor on top of your crank pulley.
      This crossed my mind last night while talking to a buddy at work. I'm trying to see if anyone had the same exact issue and replaced something to fix it. I don't want to throw a shit load of money at it and not have the problem fixed in the end. As well as I don't want to replace something, hope it fixes itself and it ends up with me getting stranded because the problem wasn't resolved. Thanks though, will keep that on the list of possible parts to replace.


      90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

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        #4
        Originally posted by dreamchasin View Post
        This crossed my mind last night while talking to a buddy at work. I'm trying to see if anyone had the same exact issue and replaced something to fix it. I don't want to throw a shit load of money at it and not have the problem fixed in the end. As well as I don't want to replace something, hope it fixes itself and it ends up with me getting stranded because the problem wasn't resolved. Thanks though, will keep that on the list of possible parts to replace.
        You can google "M50 CPS" and see a lot of people that also had your problem. Slamming through the gears makes me think your CPS wires or CPS moved from the jolt and stopped your car. This exact thing happened on my M20, slammed through gears and fucked with the already fragile CPS wires that were already on it's way out.
        Originally posted by TSI
        ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
        OEM+

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
          You can google "M50 CPS" and see a lot of people that also had your problem. Slamming through the gears makes me think your CPS wires or CPS moved from the jolt and stopped your car. This exact thing happened on my M20, slammed through gears and fucked with the already fragile CPS wires that were already on it's way out.
          Ah, but it also happened while driving on a smooth road just cruising at 3k RPM in 3rd gear.

          You are making me think more in depth with this, It does happen more often I guess while making abrupt turns and bumping around. I am on a stiffer suspension..(GC coilovers 500f/700r).


          90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

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            #6
            you can try unplugging the cam sensor, car should run consistantly (poorly) with no cam sensor connected.

            you could also try driving with AFM unplugged; it will do a similar poopy safety map that wont die unless you shut it off.

            logic is that when items are unplugged the DME defaults to a "dumb" map and will run, if the electronic item is bad and connected it can sometimes cause engine stalling or similar situations via wrong signals to DME.

            I have found many misc random issues in cars like this, but your issue def. seems like something with wires having a problem
            OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

            Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



            Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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              #7
              no one can help? i cannot figure it out!


              90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

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                #8
                Okay, let me give a little update on some thinking.

                I was looking at MarkD chips and saw the 402 ECU is for the 92 NVm50, and the 403 is for the 91 NVm50. My 92 NVm50 blew the headgasket because the coolant line kinked and I didn't know. So I bought an automatic 91 NVm50, and of course since I had the 402 ECU I didn't think it would matter. Well I didn't drive it much after I swapped in the 91 NVm50 because a brake line blew. Once I fixed the brake line (hard line from the master to the soft line below the booster), my car started randomly dying as I explained above. Could my ECU be the culprit? Do I need a 403 ECU? Just remember the ECU isn't throwing ANY codes, so it would more than likely be something that is not connected to the ECU like CPS or ignition switch. The ignition switch is fine, but I do have a brand new CPS waiting to be installed. A friend is currently swapping my m50 and my whole suspension, and interior to a new shell, so I won't have it up and running for a while.


                90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

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                  #9
                  Sorry to bump an old thread, but was there ever any resolution? I'm having similar issues and would like to get it sorted in the next week or two if possible. Thanks.
                  88 325is - S52 powered

                  Originally posted by King Arthur
                  We'll not risk another frontal assault, that rabbit's dynamite!

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                    #10
                    Ok, so my issue turned out to be that 2" piece of fuel line in tank having a hole in it. So, if you seem to be losing fuel pressure but can't find a leak anywhere, check that.
                    88 325is - S52 powered

                    Originally posted by King Arthur
                    We'll not risk another frontal assault, that rabbit's dynamite!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      My issue was the CPS


                      90 325is alpine2 m50b25 becoming a dorifto car.

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