Official Electric Fan wiring thread!

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  • Klug
    replied
    Chiming in here with my modified electric fan setup.

    Short story: I followed this DIY on how hook directly to the Aux fan wiring with a 80C switch. Easy to do, simple and not a lot of electrical cabling. I was running a SPAL 16'' Puller as my primary cooling fan for a few months.

    This worked like a charm- except under the ONE scenario: If the temp switch kicks on the fan at 80C and starts cooling, and I was ready to park or turn off the car and the fan was still on- the fan would obviously lose power. IF I had to turn the car back on for whatever reason (maybe to move the car after you parked it) and the temp was still over 80C- the startup of the ignition I would blow the stock 30A aux fan fuse every time. I found out that this can happen when switching from the +12v of the battery (ignition ON but engine OFF) to the new +14.3v you get from turning over the engine and obtaining the power bump from running from the Alternator. By the way- I never blew the in-line fuse I added from the +12v of the fan- only the 30A fuse in the fusebox.

    Also- which is a great point on why I modified it- was that say you are getting ready to pull into your destination, you might be idling a bit to find parking etc etc and the car gets up to 80C. The fan kicks on and might still be running when you turn the car off. Which is fine. But if you need to turn the car back on again, the thermo switch on the thermostat- which goes to the DME- will tell the DME that the engine coolant is too hot and don't supply fuel. So you get this hesitation when trying to start up. I can't get a definite temperature of what the thermostat DME switch reads that tells the engine that it is too hot. I only found out what resistance it reads at certain temps. If you know- I would really be interested what this threshold is.

    Anyway- my plan was to remove the fan from the Aux wiring fuses/relay and run power directly to a new relay that has constant +12v w/o the ignition on. First tried to wire up a new relay and fuse to the stock fusebox. Wasted my time since I couldn't find the correct female blade inserts for the fusebox. Decided to do a completely standalone setup.

    Here is what I used and how I wired it in:

    Hella 30A Relay and weather proof wiring harness $15
    - Relays are pretty much all the same from what I found. Went with this one since I decided on mounting it stand-alone from everything else and tried to make the install clean. Sure you can use a standard Autozone 30A relay, but finding the wiring harnesses are hard to find locally and at the end it will probably be a pretty messy wiring job. Installed mine on the side of the fuel pump relay cover.


    30A In-Line fuse holders $4/each
    - Used this instead of using the Accessory fuse holder (some have used this stock fuse holder for other things) Put one from the +12v Constant coming out of this stock fuse holder to terminal 30 on the relay. Used the other one for the +12v for the fan.

    Here is my drawing and relay layout.





    Relay Wiring
    Terminal 30: +12v (12GA wire) constant from stock accessory fusebox (with In-line 30A fuse)
    Terminal 85: Ground (12GA wire)
    Terminal 86: Trigger switch (14/16GA wire) I'm using my 80C thermo switch with a manual override switch that I used a extra fog light switch and mounted it next to the defrost/hazards (to turn on the fan under 80C if needed) You need to tap into a 7.5 fuse that has constant +12v so fuses 21, 22 and 23 are always on. I tapped fuse 21 (NOT 10 as pictured) since it is used for other switches on the car. Run a wire from here, to the thermo switch. Then a second wire back to Terminal 86.
    Terminal 87: Fan +12v (12GA wire) used an in-line fuse here to protect the fan. Mounted it near the fusebox for easy access.
    Terminal 87A: NOT USED (unless you need power to something that is ALWAYS on and OFF when the fan is ON)

    Notes:
    Make sure you invest in good butt connectors, crimp (or solder if you prefer) and electrical wrap. I hate glossy electrical tape, so I purchased some premium wire wrap.

    Thats about it! It's not the most complex job, but it gets it done and doesn't rely on anything stock. Hopefully this will help out people who might see the same issues. There are a few threads around that I've read about their fans blowing fuses left and right. This should be the solution. Good luck!!
    Last edited by Klug; 06-03-2015, 09:48 AM.

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  • Aguedae30
    replied
    I need some help here,let see what you guys think:

    I've recently swapped my car for an euroS50 and deleted the clutch fan as there is not much space there.

    I picked up a citroen C5 pusher that only has two wires (RED/BLACK) so I spliced the original A/C connector and connected the RED to the green and BLACK to brown so it will turn on when I push the snowflake button.

    Worth to mention that I am running a M3 e36 radiator and normally I have no need of turning on the fan as the car runs quite cool while moving (85/90C--185/195F)

    But when I step on it,drifting or hillclimbing,even with the fan on, the car overheats a little,yesterday I saw the gauge mark 100C(212F) after few hairpin drifts.

    I am also hearing that relay sound every 5 seconds when the fan is on.

    By now,the fan is only being actuated manually.

    I was thinking about upgrading the radiator to an aluminum one or maybe drilling some little holes on the thermostat(stock one)

    what you guys think? thanks a lot for the support!

    cheers from basque country!

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  • Klug
    replied
    Has anyone had any issue wiring in an electric fan to their stock Aux High speed relay/wiring and have an issue blowing a fuse only when the fan is engaged and the ignition is turned off?

    Running a SPAL puller, using stock aux fan high relay. I think the fuse/relay gets a power bump when it is engaged and engine is running then the engine shuts off. Basically coming straight off of alternator power.

    I'm thinking of now running a stand alone relay/fuse to the fan and temp switch. This way it will not be dependent on the iginiton +12v and will keep running when the car is turned off and hits the 80c thermo switch. Also, this will help since I've noticed that when the fan kicks on for a short period of time and the engine is turned off (coolant temp still =>80c) if you restart the engine it has hesitation since the coolant temp sensor (on thermostat to DME) is saying that coolant temp is too hot to turn on the engine again.

    Just an FYI since someone else might have had this issue

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  • GDA
    replied
    Just wanted to say thanks to the OP. All the info in this thread made my 16 inch pusher fan install a breeze.

    Also, went with MZ3 radiator, 16 inch FFD 3000 cfm fan and utilized factory Aux fan wiring harness with new resistor and new stock temp switch. S50 sits at 11 o'clock while idling and if left idling it will very slowly creep to just past 12 on the cluster gauge and then the fan kicks on for about 30 seconds on low and brings it right back down to 11 position. Running it as a pusher in front of AC condenser.

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  • 18rabbit
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    M42 radiator setups are by far the most evil/annoying to bleed properly. The coolant jackets in the engine are higher than the radiator cap usually so the air doesnt want to flow up there....
    Ok so I finally got the car bled completely and with a functioning fan! Thanks for everyone's help. I bled it about 5 times over the course of a week and I can say a few things made obvious differences:

    Parking car on hill where radiator top was higher than engine.
    Filling upper thermostat hose directly first then transitioning to radiator fill hole, and squeezing lower thermostat hose sporadically.
    Once radiator is full then removing top radiator support and rotating radiator so that the fill hole is higher than the other side.

    I also drilled my thermostats to include a breather hole. I also replaced thermostats too. I replaced it with the shorter one on the right.

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    M42 radiator setups are by far the most evil/annoying to bleed properly. The coolant jackets in the engine are higher than the radiator cap usually so the air doesnt want to flow up there....

    Leave a comment:


  • nau
    replied
    Which puller fan should I buy for M52B28 with late M20 radiator? SPAL have 3 different series, which one will fit? Will High Performance fit?
    Any advice on AC pusher fan please?

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  • 18rabbit
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    what radiator/overflow setup?

    overheat at idle or driving? Have a accurate way to monitor temps?
    I realize we are getting out of 'fan switch' territory but I have a m42 radiator.

    Today I parked car on hill where front end was at least 2' above level. With bleed screw open I used different techniques ie. blowing in rad fill hole and squeezing lower rad hose and managed to get a lot of air out of the system. Still crept over halfway once I took it for a spin but I felt like I made progress. I will try more tomorrow.

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    what radiator/overflow setup?

    overheat at idle or driving? Have a accurate way to monitor temps?

    Leave a comment:


  • 18rabbit
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    No one believes me the fan switch is almost never problem ;)

    Water pump/thermostat work?
    Now I'm a believer!... Yes water pump and thermostat are brand new. Today I pulled the thermostat and radiator. Flushed the radiator with the hose and got a bunch of brown stuff out of there. I drilled a <1/8" hole in the thermostat too and replaced it with hole at 12 Oclock. Then I proceeded to bleed the cooling system using the following protocol:

    Jack front of car up
    Turn car to 'on' position and run heater full power, fan full speed
    Opened bleed screw and radiator cap
    Fill coolant using top thermostat hose slowly
    Once hose was full, I mounted hose then filled radiator until air bubbles stopped coming from bleed hole
    Closed bleeder and radiator

    Still overheating. Hoses are rock hard, top hose is hot, bottom hose is cold. Fan still not coming on... Any help is appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • gotane30
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    No one believes me the fan switch is almost never problem ;)

    Water pump/thermostat work?


    I believe you Dave. :hitler:

    Leave a comment:


  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    No one believes me the fan switch is almost never problem ;)

    Water pump/thermostat work?

    Leave a comment:


  • 18rabbit
    replied
    Originally posted by 18rabbit
    Yes, and when I do this, the fan fires. So this pretty much means bad fan switch yeah?
    Ok, so I bought a new fan switch and same thing happens. I think the fan switch and the coolant temp sensor are getting vastly different temp readings. The coolant temp sensor is hot while the radiator (and bottom hose) is cooler. Coolant gauge reads 3/4 hot. What does this point to?

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  • 18rabbit
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    Have you tried bridging the two pins at teh switch and seeing if the fan fires?
    Yes, and when I do this, the fan fires. So this pretty much means bad fan switch yeah?

    Leave a comment:


  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Have you tried bridging the two pins at teh switch and seeing if the fan fires?

    Leave a comment:

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