stumbling s50

[spaceshuttle]

I have a 95 s50 it idles good the only problem I am having is when I am driving the power cuts out from 1k to about 4k after that it runs strong. I tried a different ecu with no change and I've checked the fuel injectors. What should I check next? And there is a CEL but I am not getting any codes when I do the stomp test.

[Adrian_Visser]

Are you pressing and releasing the gas pedal 5 times in 5 seconds with the key in the run position like you are supposed to?

[spaceshuttle]

Yup

[greyis89]

I'm having a similar problem. Stomp test doesn't work and I know I'm running ridiculously rich. Still trying to track down the sputtering culpret.

[e30s50dan]

The very second you turn the key ,start stomping 5 times

[Adrian_Visser]

My DME stopped flashing codes shortly after I got my car running too. I still need to get around to swapping DMEs. The solution for me was to buy a peake scan tool (I needed one anyways.)

[giantkeeper]

My DME stopped flashing codes shortly after I got my car running too. I still need to get around to swapping DMEs. The solution for me was to buy a peake scan tool (I needed one anyways.)

I have a scan tool, but apparently no power to the OBD1 reader plug. Yours works huh? I know of at least three other swap cars locally that can't use the obd reader port too.

[M-technik-3]

Checked your coils and the spark plug boots?

[StereoInstaller1]

Why not start off with the obvious? figure out why there is no power to the scan port.

[Adrian_Visser]

If you bought an adapter from someone it likely doesn't have the wire run for it. You need to run switched power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. By run power I mean connect the right pins together on the c101 and x20 you don't have to actually run any wires in the engine harness.

Same goes for your CEL, if the adapter was bought and not made yourself who knows if the CEL is even functional.

I don't have any of my wiring notes with me right now but a bit of looking through the etms will tell you which pins go to which. I want to say I used the O2 sensor heater relay pin on the c101 as a source of power but I can't remember for sure if it wasn't for something else.

[giantkeeper]

If you bought an adapter from someone it likely doesn't have the wire run for it. You need to run switched power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. By run power I mean connect the right pins together on the c101 and x20 you don't have to actually run any wires in the engine harness.

Same goes for your CEL, if the adapter was bought and not made yourself who knows if the CEL is even functional.

I don't have any of my wiring notes with me right now but a bit of looking through the etms will tell you which pins go to which. I want to say I used the O2 sensor heater relay pin on the c101 as a source of power but I can't remember for sure if it wasn't for something else.

Nice! My buddy put together my harness for me. I'm glad to hear it is something fairly straight forward! I never gave it much priority though as I currently do not have any active CEL's although I do know that they work.

Thank you!

[spaceshuttle]

I am stomping it as soon as I turn it still nothing. I have all new spark plugs and the boots are good to. Any other suggestions?

[samiam3356]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=131118

Take a look at this thread. Fredk mentions something about if you don't have something wired correctly you won't get power to the diadnostic tool and you could get a cut off in mid rpm.

I think post 19 is what I'm talking about.

[spaceshuttle]

I've been playing with the MAF When it's unplugged the rpm's dont drop so bad it just does it for a second then goes back up. When its plugged in it drops and I go almost to a complete stop then it goes back up. Soo I guess I will find a different one and test it out.