Como What?

[Addissimo]

So here I am, driving up to the nearest resort town to see my girlfriend and my car starts to sputter... then it dies. I thought it might be a problem with the fuel pump wiring because it has been troublesome lately. I always get it running again. After about 20 minutes of fucking with the wiring, I start to look around the car for other culprits. I open the glove box, feel my ecu and it pretty much burns my hand. Its WAYWAYWAY hot. I couldnt hold it for more than a couple of seconds. So I figure I overheated my ecu.

I got my new ecu in the mail today, thinking my car would start right up... no such luck. I replace a couple relays, I end up rewiring the whole damn engine and still no go. I've tried starting it with the fuel pump hard wired to the battery, checked all my spark plugs- everything.

Any ideas?

Thanks-
Addis

[Addissimo]

I've replaced the wiring harness... still no starty. I managed to get it started for about 2 hours the other day. Got to my friends house and just stopped running again once I got there. What is going on!!!????!

-Addis

[Xmarksthespot21]

I've replaced the wiring harness... still no starty. I managed to get it started for about 2 hours the other day. Got to my friends house and just stopped running again once I got there. What is going on!!!????!

-Addis

Does it turn over or just not start all together?

How did it run when you got it started?

[Addissimo]

The starter works if thats what you're asking. I don't think the ecu is getting power anymore. I haven't checked with the new harness- I'll do that first thing in the morning. Last time when I got it started, i hadn't changed anything and it just started right up for whatever reason. It ran well.

I borrowed an ecu from my mechanic because I wasnt sure if both of my ecus were burnt or not (i was getting power to them) and that got it started right up. After that i was able to switch through all three ecus and they'd all start and run the car just fine. Then after about 10 miles of driving and a little hard acceleration, my car died. not to start again.

Thanks for your help
-Addis

[Jason89i]

e36/e30
8/12 - Grey / Grey* - Check Engine Light
10/10 - Blue Yellow / Blue - Dynamic Oil Level Sensor
12/4 - Brown Violet / Brown Violet - Coolant Temp Sensor
13/13 - Green Violet / Green Violet - Fuel Pump Relay
14/14 - Black White / Black White - Speedometer signal
15/15 - Black Green / Black Green - Starter
16/2 - White Yellow / Green Yellow - Static Oil Level Sensor
18/17 - Black Yellow / Black Yellow - Starter
19/16 - White Green / White Black - Diagnostic Connector
20/9 - Black / Black - Engine Speed (tach)
21/7 - Green / Green - Ignition Switch
22/6 - Green White / Green White - O2 Sensor, Heater Relay
23/5 - Brown Green / Brown Green- Oil Pressure Sensor
24/8 - White Black / White Green - Idle Speed Control / Fuel Rate
25/1 - Blue / Blue - Alternator Charge

-Addis

ok .... based on the wiring diagram your using......check the o2 relay. i bet the green wire (heater wire) is not getting voltage to the o2 sensor. in fact, i bet the red/white wires are freaking out and the brown/? ecu signal wire is getting back fed power. the e30 uses seperate relays for fuel pump and o2.....the e36 uses one. check your wiring schematics and you will discover pin 13 to pin 13 will send power ..... welll.....from pin 13 on both ends.....freaking the relay out. long story short disconnect and cap pin 13 and tap the e36 harness pin 13 to fuse 11. you can eliminate fuse 11 and just pull a fusable link from there.

im just shooting from memory here.....but the bently gives a decent chart for checking signals from the o2 relay.

oh and the pin 15 is the k7/k5 body electronics relays.....not the starter. but you can take it to the starter (like some e30's) to get the signal off the starter.

[Addissimo]

I wish it were that simple-

I'm not getting spark from any cylinder.

I've gone through my car looking at a diagram with a multi-meter looking for voltage and resistance.

My Crank Position Sensor is about 740 ohms off(540ohms). I borrowed a used crank position sensor from my mechanic, they claimed the unit worked, it was 780 ohms off(500ohms). They thought it should start the engine, otherwise they wouldnt know what it was doing in their test parts box. The CPS is supposed to read 1280 ohms +/- 10% leaving a maximum of 1408 ohms, and a minimum of 1152 ohms. I'm assuming its fried.

The other problem I am having is with the DME and main relay. Pin 85 on the relay (the thin brown wire) is not grounding the relay. I traced it back to the DME, it doesn't get caught up in any splices or anything of that nature. The DME is supposed to be grounding it, its obviously not happening. I went through all of the grounding pins in the DME harness connector to check if they had ground and they all do. This tells me that the DME is being grounded sufficiently. I have tried using two different DMEs that I have, both I know have worked for me in the past, one ran my car for 5 months.

Does it sound like a DME, wiring, or CPS problem? Logic tells me the CPS is fried, but as far as the DME is concerned, i dont see how two ecus can fry just like that.

-Addis

[Jason89i]

I would agree with your notion. I did not know you were not getting any spark. There are very few things that will cause a no spark......cps is one of them. I would check for continuity from the cps ground (blk wire) from the sensor back to #43 at the ecu plug. if the wire got stretched or rubbed thin, that would be it.

I had a stretched ground wire for the throttle position sensor, man that was a pain to figure out. But once i found no continuity, just replaced the single wire. problem solved.

Cheers, jason