Overheating
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Where are you "taking a temp reading"? The head sender is in a great place and if youve got a huge air bubble in the head and its cooking (thus the red gauge) taking the temp at the thermo housing or someplace else may not show it. -
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Mine does the same thing with both fans running and I let it idle and took a temp reading and its normal even when the gauge is in redLeave a comment:
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Good to know, thanks!
Ehh, plenty of people use them on all sorts of m/s5x engines without issues. It's a DD, it will never turn a wheel on a track.
With the fan now working, the needle won't even touch the middle line.Leave a comment:
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The metal pump was designed with the same bearings as the plastic pumps.... So bearing failure will come at some point.. Composites are less likely for that.Leave a comment:
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I can show you pics the cracked shock towers, cracked trunklid/quarter panel area, rusting firewall, etc... if you'd really like. haha
I just don't have it in me to let the car go yet. It was my first car, I've had it 11 years, put on 200k of the 300k miles that are on it, myself. I'm way beyond emotionally attached.Leave a comment:
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Well, disregard this thread. My electric fan fuse melted, so the fan wasn't coming on. Which blows my mind, because the first day it overheated on me, I got out, looked through the grill, and saw/heard the electric fan spinning (it's loud). Maybe it was intermittent at that time.
Anyway, spliced a new fuse in, let the car idle for 10 minutes in 95 degree heat, and it didn't even touch the half way line, so I'm good to go.
Thanks anyway, everyone!Leave a comment:
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Can't the shaft break, leaving the pulley spinning, but coolant not flowing?
Is there any reason behind getting a composite pump? Not that I don't trust you, I just want to know why I'm buying one or the other.
ThanksLeave a comment:
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Water pumps are just mechanical things. Either they are spinning or not. So just pull it out and make sure the bearing is good.
If it were my car I would do a new thermo and a composite pump if you have the metal style.
You could also get a coolant system pressure gauge and see if cylinder pressure is leaking into your coolant system. It doesn't have to much to make things annoying in there.Leave a comment:
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Well, it was bled 3 years/40k miles ago, hasn't been touched since, the coolant level hasn't changed, and the problem only started recently...Leave a comment:
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Sounds like the system wasn't bled properly. I had the same problem with my m52 and m42 radiator until I drilled a hole in the top of the thermostat and rebled the system. Now I don't have problems overheating with just a 14" pusher fan.Leave a comment:
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The engine has 260k miles, and the car is rotting to pieces, I'll be happy if it makes it another year. No way I'm putting a $200 pump in! Just doing little things to keep it running reliably until the chassis breaks in half or I launch piston chunks out the exhaust.Leave a comment:
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I know you did not ask me, but I went with Stewart and never looked back. Do it!Thanks guys. I didn't replace the pump or the thermostat when I put the engine in, and it's a high mileage engine, so I'll just order both.
7pilot, do you recommend the composite or metal pump?
I have some water wetter left over from my track car, not sure why I didn't think to throw it in this car. Will do.Leave a comment:

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