Overheating

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Where are you "taking a temp reading"? The head sender is in a great place and if youve got a huge air bubble in the head and its cooking (thus the red gauge) taking the temp at the thermo housing or someplace else may not show it.

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by foxfire_1
    Mine does the same thing with both fans running and I let it idle and took a temp reading and its normal even when the gauge is in red
    That's not normal. If your engine is actually at normal operating temp, then your gauge or gauge sender is faulty.

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  • foxfire_1
    replied
    Mine does the same thing with both fans running and I let it idle and took a temp reading and its normal even when the gauge is in red

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by jrdeamicis
    The metal pump was designed with the same bearings as the plastic pumps.... So bearing failure will come at some point.. Composites are less likely for that.
    Good to know, thanks!



    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    M42 rad is your problem

    :grin:
    Ehh, plenty of people use them on all sorts of m/s5x engines without issues. It's a DD, it will never turn a wheel on a track.

    With the fan now working, the needle won't even touch the middle line.

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  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    Can't the shaft break, leaving the pulley spinning, but coolant not flowing?



    Is there any reason behind getting a composite pump? Not that I don't trust you, I just want to know why I'm buying one or the other.

    Thanks
    The metal pump was designed with the same bearings as the plastic pumps.... So bearing failure will come at some point.. Composites are less likely for that.

    Leave a comment:


  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    M42 rad is your problem


    :D

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by giantkeeper
    in for pictures :D
    I can show you pics the cracked shock towers, cracked trunklid/quarter panel area, rusting firewall, etc... if you'd really like. haha

    I just don't have it in me to let the car go yet. It was my first car, I've had it 11 years, put on 200k of the 300k miles that are on it, myself. I'm way beyond emotionally attached.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Well, disregard this thread. My electric fan fuse melted, so the fan wasn't coming on. Which blows my mind, because the first day it overheated on me, I got out, looked through the grill, and saw/heard the electric fan spinning (it's loud). Maybe it was intermittent at that time.

    Anyway, spliced a new fuse in, let the car idle for 10 minutes in 95 degree heat, and it didn't even touch the half way line, so I'm good to go.

    Thanks anyway, everyone!

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  • giantkeeper
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    the chassis breaks in half or I launch piston chunks out the exhaust.
    in for pictures :D

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  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by jrdeamicis
    Water pumps are just mechanical things. Either they are spinning or not. So just pull it out and make sure the bearing is good.
    Can't the shaft break, leaving the pulley spinning, but coolant not flowing?

    Originally posted by jrdeamicis
    If it were my car I would do a new thermo and a composite pump if you have the metal style.
    Is there any reason behind getting a composite pump? Not that I don't trust you, I just want to know why I'm buying one or the other.

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    Water pumps are just mechanical things. Either they are spinning or not. So just pull it out and make sure the bearing is good.

    If it were my car I would do a new thermo and a composite pump if you have the metal style.

    You could also get a coolant system pressure gauge and see if cylinder pressure is leaking into your coolant system. It doesn't have to much to make things annoying in there.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by luckysnafu
    Sounds like the system wasn't bled properly. I had the same problem with my m52 and m42 radiator until I drilled a hole in the top of the thermostat and rebled the system. Now I don't have problems overheating with just a 14" pusher fan.
    Well, it was bled 3 years/40k miles ago, hasn't been touched since, the coolant level hasn't changed, and the problem only started recently...

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  • luckysnafu
    replied
    Sounds like the system wasn't bled properly. I had the same problem with my m52 and m42 radiator until I drilled a hole in the top of the thermostat and rebled the system. Now I don't have problems overheating with just a 14" pusher fan.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by giantkeeper
    I know you did not ask me, but I went with Stewart and never looked back. Do it!
    The engine has 260k miles, and the car is rotting to pieces, I'll be happy if it makes it another year. No way I'm putting a $200 pump in! Just doing little things to keep it running reliably until the chassis breaks in half or I launch piston chunks out the exhaust.

    Leave a comment:


  • giantkeeper
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    Thanks guys. I didn't replace the pump or the thermostat when I put the engine in, and it's a high mileage engine, so I'll just order both.

    7pilot, do you recommend the composite or metal pump?

    I have some water wetter left over from my track car, not sure why I didn't think to throw it in this car. Will do.
    I know you did not ask me, but I went with Stewart and never looked back. Do it!

    Leave a comment:

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