M50 swap, no crank, convince me to do the right thing

[aplinweiss_is]

To make a short story long,

M50 swap is all but done. I pulled the fuel pump relay and plugs to crank the engine a bit to build oil pressure. The engine cranks about quarter revolution then it stops turning over. Get the breaker bar on the crank pulley and it's hard to rotate the motor. So I step back, pop the top on a fresh beer and fire up a fag to think a minute. Bam it hits me. The m20 flywheel could be rubbing the oil pan even though I ground down the high spots when fitting the flywheel. I crawl under the car and take a peep in the inspection holes and can see about a quarter inch of rubbing on the back of the flywheel. :hitler:

O.k. So I know the right answer is do the deed and pull the trans back out clearance it properly but damn it that's a bitch job at this point. Anybody have a tricky solution for me or just fight the trans out?

Thanks for all the wealth of knowledge on the r3v. I acquired the parts and installed this on my own without having to post a single ridiculous question that had not already been answered here a million times before.

[scottinAZ]

if the flywheel is hitting the oil pan, the only real solution is to remove said trans and flywheel and make the clearance

[AnimalE30]

How'd you get the flywheel on if its rubbing that bad?

Best thing to do is to get the engine picker back out, pull the front of the motor up and angle the trans down to make it easier on yourself - or just fight with it haha.

I had my machinist take off 3mm off the back of my flywheel, this was just barley enough. Might want to bump it up to 5mm at least, or go for the full brazilian like some others on here.

[aplinweiss_is]

well i did grind down what i thought was enough of the oil pan to clear the flywheel. It was a hour or so of grinding,checking,grinding,checking the fit. It's rubbing ever so slightly, see attached pic.

I'm skeptic of this used starter I bought for $20. I'm going to try a new one tomorrow to see what gives. I really dont want to pull that trans out now that its in the car.

[AnimalE30]

I just went though this type of thing yesterday lol.

If the starter is trying to turn over a couple of times and then stops, you wired it wrong (unless the starter is blown out like a thai prostitute).

Make sure the unloader relay wire is on the top stud. The ignition wire (I believe it is) is on the bottom stud - And then three thick wires to the stud on the side. The three thick wires come from: the alternator, and then a positive and negative wire from the battery IIRC.

I had the exact same problem when I forgot to hook up the negative cable from the battery studs. Damn thing was hiding with my AC lines lol.


That being said,do you really want your flywheel rubbing against your oil pan? Im with you on not wanting to pull that trans, but that doesn't sound like something I would want to be happening while driving.

[aplinweiss_is]

/\ I'm quite sure I have it wired correctly. the lights do cut out when cranking.

The I'll get about a 1/4 revolution of the motor then it stops. If I get the breaker bar on the crank and work it back and forth a little each way it will turn over a little more again.

[AnimalE30]

Starters are pretty damn powerful, if you need a breaker bar to turn your motor over im guessing its getting hung up on the flywheel.

Edit, read your lights are cutting out. Your battery is almost dead from all the cranking. Give her a jump and the starter motor will have full power.

I know the frustration of this, it took me a whole day to figure out I forgot one wire

[aplinweiss_is]

Update:

Bought a new starter and it cranks solid now!

Celebrating that I don't have to pull that trans back out!

[AnimalE30]

Well I'm glad I couldn't help : p

[aplinweiss_is]

Thanks for the replies animal. You kept my mind going