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R3v, help me reposition my engine

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    #16
    I'm using blocks of wood with lag bolts. Very nice install if I do say so myself.
    BimmerHeads
    Classic BMW Specialists
    Santa Clarita, CA

    www.BimmerHeads.com

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      #17
      Originally posted by MattM View Post
      the mounts you have work fine, the only difference is the E28 ones are a little more beefy...
      The pics with the shiny headers is another one of the PO's swaps.

      I ordered two greens, we'll see how it goes. I'll mount them "wrong" as AKG advises and try to swap the O2 sensor to the second pipe, may fit if I'm lucky. Got the M50 arms today.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Fusion View Post
        The pics with the shiny headers is another one of the PO's swaps.

        I ordered two greens, we'll see how it goes. I'll mount them "wrong" as AKG advises and try to swap the O2 sensor to the second pipe, may fit if I'm lucky. Got the M50 arms today.
        yes, mounting them "wrong/backwards" provides the best alignment

        I think you will find when you use the M50 mount arms that the transmission mount wont line up at all... which is normal when using the g260. And you will either need to make/buy a custom mount, or modify the current one.

        also, for the best results the O2 sensor should get input from both banks of cylinders... mine is in a bung i installed in an X pipe in my exhaust system.


        Full Build Thread Here

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          #19
          Originally posted by MattM View Post
          I think you will find when you use the M50 mount arms that the transmission mount wont line up at all... which is normal when using the g260. And you will either need to make/buy a custom mount, or modify the current one.
          Won't line up as in the transmission will be shifted more to one side?
          Would M52 engine mounts solve this?

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            #20
            Originally posted by Fusion View Post
            Won't line up as in the transmission will be shifted more to one side?
            Would M52 engine mounts solve this?
            wont line up as in the transmission will be tilted ~11* toward the passenger side.


            Full Build Thread Here

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              #21
              Noted.
              TBH, I'm not sure if it is a 260, forgot to check, may be 240 because I remember OP said it's an "is transmisson". Diff is 3.73, if that explains anything.
              It sits twisted more to the driver side now, so if the mounts turn the engine some 10° clockwise (from front), the transmission should be level.

              Not the most lovable of jobs on the car, but after this, electrical is pretty much the only thing I need to learn to know the car good and be confident in doing another swap.

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                #22
                Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
                I'm using blocks of wood with lag bolts. Very nice install if I do say so myself.
                Very clever MR 325 , What durometer wood did you go with?
                Lorin


                Originally posted by slammin.e28
                The M30 is God's engine.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by LJ851 View Post
                  Very clever MR 325 , What durometer wood did you go with?
                  I'm sorry but I cannot give away ALL of my secrets.
                  BimmerHeads
                  Classic BMW Specialists
                  Santa Clarita, CA

                  www.BimmerHeads.com

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                    #24
                    Ok, that O2 sensor has to go. I'm going to kill it with an AK47 if I have to.
                    On the drivers side I slightly turned the pipe that leads into the rack so it seems the arm on that side will fit. So the only thing keeping me from alignment is the sensor.

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                      #25
                      Starting to be really pissed this is going nowhere.
                      The O2 sensor isn't coming out. I've done everything to try to loosen the bolt, won't budge.
                      So I'm going to cut it in half tomorrow to get the clearence I need, should have another sensor. Where can I put it? I'm not doing all the X pipe stuff right now. I can either try to take the plug out from the second header (pic) not sure if it's the same size though and if the angle is enough to get it in there, or I can weld the sensor where the two pipes merge into one. Not sure if that's too far from the engine though.
                      I'm not willing to take the headers out and shit, so this can be ghetto for now, I'll do it right when I upgrade the exhaust.

                      Any ideas appreciated because I'm going crazy with this.

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                        #26
                        Put your new sensor in the other collector, or weld up a bung in the piping behind it. Careful with cutting the other sensor, the middle section can actually fall out and then you'll just have a hole. Could weld that up though if you can get to it(looks tight in there!)
                        E30 m50/s52 turbo partout:
                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=236224

                        AEM EMS setup for BMW:
                        http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1781886

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                          #27
                          I think I have an E36 cat that according to pics has the bung "between the legs". Should I plug in there? Would solve pretty much everything.

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                            #28
                            if your not even worried about saving the sensor, get the thing red hot, then it should come out without a fuss...... I got one of my litterally glowing red, then i slimply tapped the wrench with my palm and it came out.


                            Full Build Thread Here

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                              #29
                              Yeah the oxygen sensor in the completely wrong location. It's only reading 4,5,6 cylinders. cut it out and put it where the 2 headers go into a single pipe, one sensor has to read all 6 cyls, if your car is obd1

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                                #30
                                Still having a hard time with this.
                                Is it possible that the whole exhaust is pulling on the header side of the engine and not allowing me to reposition it correctly? The exhaust sags in the middle.
                                I was able to lift the headers from the bottom so the front 3-1 wouldn't touch the subframe, but then the second header started touching the firewall.
                                I can't believe something that sounds so simple is turning out to be the most horrible job I've done on a car. And causing me to miss this season's last track days :(

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