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all sensors are brand new OEM and that was my next thought the harness... ill try one of my other FPRs though.... would a 4bar fpr be too much to try cuz i have a few of those laying around.
^^You probably don't want more fuel pressure than stock if you have enough unburnt fuel going through your engine to be dripping from the exhaust tip. Just saying. Sounds like it could be a lot of things. I would tell you where I'd start, but that takes the fun out of it for you. If you were in Charlotte with the car I would do one of two things-- fix it or burn it to the ground. Either could be fun for one of us.
^^ where would i find such a short? i checked the wires in the harness once they were good, and it got a little better when i swapped back to my old injectors.
alright i popped out the injectors and cycled the fuel pump and the injectors didnt leak any... and im gonna check for a short again later...
any other ideas??
it has to be a short or the dme. if they didn't leak under pressure without signal then one or more has to get constant signal due a short or bad dme. i think if it was the fuel regulator the engine would choke on fuel but because it only gets it in 1 or 2 cylinders it can keep running.
your old injectors are smaller then the newer one? if yes that can be the reason why it runs better. smaller injector -> less fuel to choke on
my
it has to be a short or the dme. if they didn't leak under pressure without signal then one or more has to get constant signal due a short or bad dme. i think if it was the fuel regulator the engine would choke on fuel but because it only gets it in 1 or 2 cylinders it can keep running.
your old injectors are smaller then the newer one? if yes that can be the reason why it runs better. smaller injector -> less fuel to choke on
my
still did it with the smaller injectors and one of the injectors did leak when i jumped the pump. so i replaced it and it helped so i have 5 more (low mileage) injectors that i can swap out and try those...
also if it was a short from the DME then all the injectors would remain open and flood it completely. IIRC
but i also noticed that this fuel tank is different than my 318is, so how does the fuel get from one side of the tank to the other? my 318 had a metal tube at the bottom of the tank that connected it and im wondering if this might be some of the problem. i kno it might not be the entire problem but not a bad starting point. lol
The difference between 325 and 318 gas tanks is not your problem...
A short in one of the grounds for the injectors would not turn on all the injectors, this is sequential ignition brah the DME controls each injector individually, even if it was an m20 it would only be opening one bank of three injectors.
Having said that when you tested your injectors did you have the key in the run position?
With the key on the injectors get 12v on the positive terminal from the DME relay so if there was a short to ground in the harness the injector would be open when the key is on.
How about a bit more background info, did you just do the swap and this is first start?
what DME and chip are you running?
What you should do is:
-fuel pressure test
-pull plugs and inspect for condition (fouling from excessively rich mixture)
-swap DMEs
-compression test (maybe bent valves)
the swap was done in my 318is, wreck the car, put motor in this car.
new coils new plugs compression #s are all within 3 pounds 227-220psi when the key was on one injector sprayed, replaced and and it didnt spray again (while jumping the pump)
could it be an intermenttent short to ground? and i will be swapping DMEs hopefully next week sometime.
the dme is 413 red lable stock chip. wasnt gonna order my chip till i got it running right. and no its been running sence march.
could having my cam and knock sensors backwards for so long have fucked something up??
oh and im gonna re check fuel pressure tomorrow while driving the car and see if it drops off any (brand new pump as well)
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