First E30, First motor swap. M50NV

[328ijunkie]

Some wack temp sensor for crazy early models.

[SkorcherX]

Hmm?

1 & 2 HAVE to go to a 325i starter. I was all back-ass-wards because I was trying to use my huge fat 325e starter. The posts are different and the gear doesn't even match the flywheel. So you always have to use the matching starter for your flywheel. I got my starter at a junk-yard for $35.

3, are what I think the old M20 used for crank position sensor, or something... They can be ignored, or removed.

4, is some old temp sensor, that can also be ignored.

[Jand3rson]

So you always have to use the matching starter for your flywheel.

This is VERY important, so many people overlook this.

[imwhyteyo]

i agree.. as well, most people swapping, dropping, or doing many clutch/tranny etc. work on m20 allllllways run into comparison problems

[TimKninja]

Yea i thought the E34 starter would work.

It doesnt with an m20 flywheel.

Makes an EXCCELENT wheel chock tho.

[SkorcherX]

Small update.

Ebay OBX long tube headers do not fit in my car, and will require extensive time to modify in order to make them work. The collector is sitting on the from sway bar and holding the motor up.

I know many of you have had 0 problems with these cheap Chinese eBay headers.. however mine simply will not work for me.

I ordered a set of Raceland shorties, as they were "kinda" cheap and readily available. And due to their design the only thing that could cause a problem are the down pipes, which can be easily modified unlike the scenario my eBay headers are in.

My car is sitting at my buddies shop for the time being, waiting on the headers to arrive. I purchased a Borla Pro XS muffler to run in the mid section, and also bought a Vibrant dual tipped stainless muffler to hang out the rear. Everything is 2.5". Once headers arrive, hopefully I can get the exhaust all squared away, and then I can finally drive this old heap of shit.

I will post videos once its streetable.

[mammoth_e30]

exhaust is the part I am least looking forward to and it is pretty much at the bottom of my todo list. Hope that setup works out and sounds sweet

[amcink]

Any updates?

[FreedS4]

Small update.

Ebay OBX long tube headers do not fit in my car, and will require extensive time to modify in order to make them work. The collector is sitting on the from sway bar and holding the motor up.

I know many of you have had 0 problems with these cheap Chinese eBay headers.. however mine simply will not work for me.

I ordered a set of Raceland shorties, as they were "kinda" cheap and readily available. And due to their design the only thing that could cause a problem are the down pipes, which can be easily modified unlike the scenario my eBay headers are in.

My car is sitting at my buddies shop for the time being, waiting on the headers to arrive. I purchased a Borla Pro XS muffler to run in the mid section, and also bought a Vibrant dual tipped stainless muffler to hang out the rear. Everything is 2.5". Once headers arrive, hopefully I can get the exhaust all squared away, and then I can finally drive this old heap of shit.

I will post videos once its streetable.

Thoughts on the Raceland headers, in comparison to the eBay headers? They look decent on their site, but wanted to get an opinion on them, as well.

Chris

[singh336]

good thread for me , doing this swap in a week or so but looks like a huge amount of work !

[SkorcherX]

Well it's been a while.

Got the exhaust done. Sounds alright. The noise out the muffler is great, the rasp coming from the Chinese headers is a bit undesirable. Oh well.

So it runs and drives. I am trying to get it in for an alignment this week.

So now I have to work out all the bugs.

I fixed my drivers side power window, that's a huge relief for me. I live in Oregon, and we get some serious rain.

My CEL is flashing... and I cant get the stomp test to work. Ever since I got the car running the CEL has been flashing but I assumed it was due to a lack of O2 sensor and evap sensor. I have now installed both of those, and the CEL continues to flash. Not going to lie, I don't have the charcoal canister hooked up, I just have the gas vent line to the evap valve and then vacuum from the valve to the throttle body. Not sure if that will cause this.

Due to the lack of a stomp test working (maybe I'm doing it wrong) I don't know what code its throwing. I read that disconnecting the battery for 15+ minutes will clear the CEL... is this true, cause I have routinely had the battery disconnected and the CEL always comes back upon start up (its never not flashed). Any advice for to help me determine what the CEL is bitching about would be greatly appreciated.

Also my Oil Level check light is on... and I'm worried I wired it wrong. However does anyone know if it will light up if the oil is too high? i imagine it would.

Thanks!

[SkorcherX]

So all the talk about the CEL flashing in the above post... /sigh was not the CEL at all. It was the Active Check Panel light in the dash flashing. I feel retarded.

Any how not much of an update. Ordered the stuff I need to flock the dash, and bought some trim paint to make things a bit more "new" looking.

Got to run the car through an entire tank of gas. Blew through 11.25 gallons over 216 miles. So that puts me at 19.2 MPG. Better than the 12 my Nissan Titan gets.

Pics of some fresh paint on the side mirrors and cowl vents.

[frankie591]

In your first set of pics there is some kind of burn mark or something on your m20 intake manifold, and mine has the exact same mark in the exact same spot. Any idea what causes this??

[RedDefiance]

Nice work on the mirrors.

[SkorcherX]

In your first set of pics there is some kind of burn mark or something on your m20 intake manifold, and mine has the exact same mark in the exact same spot. Any idea what causes this??

I think this is some sort of sealant that as burned into the manifold. I have seen it on other manifolds as well. That's my best guess.

Nice work on the mirrors.

Thanks!!