2 Problems.. Brakes and Cooling! Help.

[sohc12vm20]

Can someone please help me out! I just finished up my swap, and I bleeded all 4 calipers.. There is no air in the lines, however brakes seem to stuck. Brake pedal is hard/no play in it.. If you press the brake pedal it wont budge and car will not roll by itself on a incline and if your coasting forward it stops by its self. 2. New thermostat.. Stock s52 88 degree I believe, and coolant doesn't seem to be circulating. Why wouldn't the coolant circulate? My temp gauge goes one click up and never comes out the blue.. Gauge was working fine before swap.. The top hose gets very hot and the lower hose stays cold, and when I drove the car the lower hose finally became warm but the radiator itself was smoken. As for the brakes, I have a e32 735i BB, e34 535i MC and a e30 IX reservoir. As for my cooling system I have the stock e30 325i late model setup, with what I believe is a working s52 water pump and new T-stat with gaskets. I had no problems with my cooling system prior to the swap. As always Thanks in advance!

[sohc12vm20]

Anyone..?

[Wanganstyle]

Can someone please help me out! I just finished up my swap, and I bleeded all 4 calipers.. There is no air in the lines, however brakes seem to stuck. Brake pedal is hard/no play in it.. If you press the brake pedal it wont budge and car will not roll by itself on a incline and if your coasting forward it stops by its self. 2. New thermostat.. Stock s52 88 degree I believe, and coolant doesn't seem to be circulating. Why wouldn't the coolant circulate? My temp gauge goes one click up and never comes out the blue.. Gauge was working fine before swap.. The top hose gets very hot and the lower hose stays cold, and when I drove the car the lower hose finally became warm but the radiator itself was smoken. As for the brakes, I have a e32 735i BB, e34 535i MC and a e30 IX reservoir. As for my cooling system I have the stock e30 325i late model setup, with what I believe is a working s52 water pump and new T-stat with gaskets. I had no problems with my cooling system prior to the swap. As always Thanks in advance!

lots going on. many things happened lol


have you turned on the heater inside the car when bleeding? did you bleed with res open to allow air escape?


have you driven the car and checked coolant or brake issue too scary?

was the S52 a running motor you tested (ala drove to see cooling system functioning properly and had good HG)?

e30 stock cooling radiator is PNP for a e36 (rad part number is the same). bleed it identical to a M20.

for braking system is the master/booster re-tracting all the way?

[7pilot]

Re: Brakes.
Recheck your booster to brake pedal adjustment.
If that is ok, then pull a caliper and try to compress the piston.

m

[sohc12vm20]

lots going on. many things happened lol


have you turned on the heater inside the car when bleeding? did you bleed with res open to allow air escape?


have you driven the car and checked coolant or brake issue too scary?

was the S52 a running motor you tested (ala drove to see cooling system functioning properly and had good HG)?

e30 stock cooling radiator is PNP for a e36 (rad part number is the same). bleed it identical to a M20.

for braking system is the master/booster re-tracting all the way?

yeah I know I understand :) anyhow my mechanic thinks it's coming from the 1 way valve from the brake booster to the intake manifold, I trimmed the front of it down a little bit,he thinks its not working properly. I bled the radiator again, seems to be fine now. thanks guys.

[DREWHALL]

You trimmed down what? The check valve should not cause the brakes to stay applied. All that does is keep a vacuum reserve in the booster should the engine shut off while driving down the road so you still have power brakes for a short time. I'm thinking the same as 7pilot, either you have sticking calipers or the booster rod is too long causing the master to stay somewhat applied, which can be adjusted pretty easily.

Edit:Make sure the push rod from the front of the booster is correctly aligned with the master cylinder shaft as well. If those aren't lined up it will jive it up. Look under the dash and make sure the pedal isn't binding up for some reason too. Shit there are so many possibilities.

[sohc12vm20]

You trimmed down what? The check valve should not cause the brakes to stay applied. All that does is keep a vacuum reserve in the booster should the engine shut off while driving down the road so you still have power brakes for a short time. I'm thinking the same as 7pilot, either you have sticking calipers or the booster rod is too long causing the master to stay somewhat applied, which can be adjusted pretty easily.

Edit:Make sure the push rod from the front of the booster is correctly aligned with the master cylinder shaft as well. If those aren't lined up it will jive it up. Look under the dash and make sure the pedal isn't binding up for some reason too. Shit there are so many possibilities.

I didnt know the booster rod can be adjusted.. Is there a how to on this? forgive me, Im new to this:). I believe calipers are fine due to they were perfect before the swap.

[DREWHALL]

No biggie, your mechanic should know about it. If you take down the panel under the dash on the drivers side, you can see where the brake pedal attaches to the brake booster rod in the car. The rear portion of the rod is threaded. There is a "U" shaped clevice threaded on that rod, that is held to the brake pedal with a thick pin and a locking clip. The locking clip comes off, the pin comes out, and you can move the clevice. Loosen the locking nut behind the clevice and you can adjust it, to release the brakes you need to shorten it by spinning it clockwise as if to tighten it. This seems to be a common oversight even when installing a new replacement booster let alone one from a different car. If you go on realoem.com you can probably find a diagram and see what I'm talking about.

[sohc12vm20]

Thank you very much. Will look into this.

[dirty30]

I bet your check valve is installed backwards combined with the rod being the wrong length.

[DREWHALL]

Another possibility right there! If the check valve is backwards it won't let any vacuum to the booster giving you a rock hard pedal.