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HELP e30 m3 s52 swap - Runs but - Coolant Temp Gauge not working... toltally stumped.

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    HELP e30 m3 s52 swap - Runs but - Coolant Temp Gauge not working... toltally stumped.

    Hello all: So we're just finishing up an OBD1 swapped s52 into an e30 m3. The car runs, pulls awesome, very fast. Everything seems to be pretty sorted except for the temperature gauge. Its the only thing keeping me from daily driving the car as I don't want to kill the motor. Here's what I've diagnosed so far.
    • Wiring = good: Double checked pin 4 on the c101 (brown / violet) to pin 12 (brown / violet). I spliced the e36 harness instead of making an adapter. Those are good. I checked the connector at the sensor end and it was brown / violet. I took my test light with the car on and it lit up on both at the connector and at the c101 pin 4. So Wiring checks out.
    • Gauge = The temp gauge worked before the swap.
    • Temp Sensor = I'm using a brand new temp sensor from Market Motorworks that was threaded to fit in the old throttle body coolant line spot.
    • Thermostat = Brand new thermostat. I TESTED the thermostat by boiling water and dropping it in. It opened... great.

    So! Yes the thermostat is facing the right way with the spring on the motor side. I took the thermostat out completely, hooked everything up and drove the car... thinking this would indefinitely move the fluid around getting any final air bubbles out of the system. When I did this I only tightened the thermostat housing with 2 screws (being lazy), this was good though for the test, because I got steaming water coming from the housing so I knew it was getting hot. If its hot... the gauge should work.


    The gauge doesn't budge. So I don't know if I'm overheating my motor or not. Hell my water-pump may be toast and I don't know. Even if the water-pump wasn't working I feel like I should still see some movement at this point in the gauge.


    Any ideas on how to fix this would be awesome... I'm stumped.
    I guess I could try a new temp sensors.. but its a pain to get to without taking the intake off... again, and I'd have to use a properly threaded / modified one. So... bad sensor? bad in car gauge? ideas?

    Oh yeah.. I did the whole "jacking the front end of the car up" and "holding the coolant reservoir as high as you can" "and fill the radiator with coolant by poring coolany into the upper hose" to bleed the system as well.
    (oo=[][]=oo)
    Web Design PNW

    #2
    My only other last thoughts... I have it setup for a spal fan, which I 2 wires spliced from the temp gauge wire for. The fan isn't hooked up right now. It worked before the swap, but for some reason now its blowing fuses. I only mention it because the 2 wires that splice into the brown / violet temp wire.

    Also my sensor is a brown top. this is right, ya?
    Last edited by r4esh; 12-03-2011, 03:33 PM.
    (oo=[][]=oo)
    Web Design PNW

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      #3
      Ground out the wire on the sensor side, that will give you a better indication if there is continuity to gauge, as the gauge should so some movement.

      Comment


        #4
        had same problem buy a e30 318i temp sensor should fix it

        Comment


          #5
          @r4esh, can you send me your x20 / c101 pin spreadsheet?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by /\/\ III View Post
            @r4esh, can you send me your x20 / c101 pin spreadsheet?
            Damn you want naked pics of moms too....
            Originally posted by 325Projectz
            don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
            :nice:

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              #7
              ha...hilarious...who wouldn't

              Comment


                #8
                Ya I can send it. Why do you need it? I have it all written down so I just need to type it up. Anyone have any other thoughts on this? I'm headed out there in a min to ground out harness cable and see if the needle spikes. - Will report back.
                (oo=[][]=oo)
                Web Design PNW

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                  #9
                  Is the single wire going into the connector matching up with the single pin on the sensor? If the gauge doesnt budge at all then its not making a good connection to the sensor somewhere.
                  Ill eat my own shoe if the sensor is borked. I test all of em before they go out ;)

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                    #10
                    I'm double checking my work since we are on the same project more or less, I've already started tracing out my wires. Thanks.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Ya I'd be surprised if its the sensor, I'm not convinced it is.

                      The gauge worked before.. but I read something about them getting a loose ground over time. So I just finished the process of removing my instrument cluster to take a peek.... I don't know what I should be looking for, everything seems fine, do I have to take the whole back panel off to see?

                      Lastly: When I turn the key to the ON position, nothing happens... if I TAP on the glass of the instrument panel, then the needle will bounce up to the cold position and stay there. Strange, no? if the car gets hot it wont rise from there, but it needs that initial "tap" to move at all.

                      I tried grounding the harness side wire and the needle wouldn't move, BUT my test light will light up indicating the wire has power, so I'm NOW leaning toward an issue with the cluster and not the sensor or wiring. Next step is to use the multimeter and see how MUCH power its getting... maybe not enough? Thoughts?
                      (oo=[][]=oo)
                      Web Design PNW

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                        #12
                        I had similar problems in my e30 and spent tons of time trouble shooting the sensors and wiring only to find out it was a ground in my actual gauge cluster. I went head an attached a link that may be helpful for you.

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                          #13
                          Thanks "e46s54dr" thats helpful. I wish I saw this before I put the cluster back in today... I tried "tightening the nut" method. I'll drive it tomorrow and see if that works, if not, then I'll be trying this next. Its not wiring. Its more than likely not the new sensor, so that pretty much leaves the cluster / gauge. I guess I could get a new gauge if your link method doesn't work.... at that point I'm completely lost on this...
                          (oo=[][]=oo)
                          Web Design PNW

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                            #15
                            Its not necessarily the actual gauge but its the contact point where the gauge meets the board.

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