Well this morning I went to the car and it started right up but immediately died, thought nothing of it since I have a feeling my IAC is on it's last legs and doesn't hold the smoothest idle. Proceeded to start the car and car didn't want to start, the fuel pump primed everytime I tried to crank and not even a sputter, the car just kept cranking. I stopped cranking after I smelled fuel which I knew that meant that fuel was definitely getting to the rail. Took out my scan tool and sure enough 2 codes came up, one that has come up before and a new one I haven't seen yet. Codes are listed in the picture, once the car started, it had a very rough idle for about 20 seconds whilst surging from idle to 2,000rpm and back. Thoughts? Would a faulty ICV cause this? Or an Ignition switch? My CPS was just recently replaced along with the cam sensor and those have been checked and are within spec.
Me again with another No Start
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Me again with another No Start
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Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Tags: None -
Get ready for a huge mess and pull your fuel rail with your injectors. have someone try starting the car and see if those injectors are squirting some fuel.
ICV wouldn't cause that, even the most failed ICV you can hold the idle with your foot.Originally posted by TSI♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫OEM+ -
I am getting fuel, any more suggestions :(Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Comment
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help.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Comment
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bumpYour signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Comment
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Bump, i tried a stomp test before clearing the codes and as it initiates to read codes i flashes once and then there is a long blink and then it shuts off, what is that?Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Comment
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wtf. ok.
Do you have spark? How new (old) are your spark plugs? What is your fuel pressure at the rail? You can prime the fuel lines (try starting) and then pull the fuel rail up, and look at the tips of the injectors to see if they are leaking. Dont just pull the rail and crank it (wtf).
Ignition switch is good if the car can turn over. ICV wouldnt prevent car from starting (unless you had the largest vacuum leak of all time).
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All maintenance parts are brand new, engine is refreshed with new sensors and gaskets, only things i haven't replaced was the tps, icv and intake manifold gaskets. I plan to replace the rest of the things when i pull the manifold to check the icv. I do have a bit of a exhaust leak before the cat and i haven't replaced the fpr.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Comment
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Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by Wh33lhopVANOS: sometimes you just need to go full retard.Comment
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Have you put a scope on the Crank sensor yet?Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
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I had this same thing happen once.The power wire to the MAF had snapped off inside the connector. That most likely isnt your problem but its a thought.Comment
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Ive ran into this on two swaps Ive done in the past. Like said above I had a maf problem also. Second one ended up being a faulty relay.Comment

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