Rebuild/build-up questions

[Addissimo]

Okay… I’m thinking about rebuilding my m50, I think it’ll be pretty equivalent to getting a new engine shipped here, I have a few questions though.

I’m planning on doing a stroker motor using a 3.2 crankshaft, rods and pistons. One of my main concerns is camshafts. I’m assuming I should use the 3.2 camshafts as well. I’ve heard that you need to stick with OBD-2 cams for obd-2 car and obd-1 cams for obd-1 cars (that’s what was on lukas’ old site)… I don’t see how it matters at all. They all use the same cam gears etc. etc. It seems like I should be able to run 3.2 cams without any problem- especially considering custom software doesn’t apply to me because of the stand-alone system. Incase anybody is worried, I plan on a port and polish.

Is there any way to “delete” the vanos system? I have no use for it.

I also need help demystifying the main bearing shells. ETK has a million different shells, different colors etc. What does all of that mean? I’m assuming that when buying shells/gaskets etc. that I’ll want to get them for the m50, rather than an s52… with the exception of the head gasket of course.

When using the 3.2 crankshaft, should I get the main seals for the s5x, or the m50? The rear seal is the same part number, but the front timing case seal is different. Is this because of the crankshaft, or the timing case?

Does anybody know of a gasket kit that takes care of all engine gaskets? Or just a rebuild kit- I wont need pistons, but pretty much everything else...

I’m sure I’ll have lots more questions, but I think this does it for now.

Thanks-
Addis

[Sean]

Addis, if you decide to start this over the summer, I'd love to help you out some. Or, check it out. Be fun to see it.

I'll be working on my own engine over the summer.

I definately think you should rebuild, for the money, rather then buying another and selling this one! (I saw your other thread)

Sorry I have nothing more informative to add!

[Beej '86 325es]

I'm in the same boat as you, Addis. I'm planning on doing my swap over the fall/winter, even though I've never done anything like this before. But I'm going to have someone rebuild the engine for me and replace every seal, gasket, and bearing, balance rotating assembly, hot tank the block, slap my cylinder head on it.

A good source for parts:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/SubCat/BE36-Engine.htm

Never used them, but they've got just about everything.
Check out the gasket section.

Sorry, no help on the bearing shells though, I don't know about those either.

[Addissimo]

I dont think the rebuild will be the hard part- the problem will be in getting all of the right pieces.

I found why the m3 requires a different front seal- the timing case is different.

m50 part number: 11 14 1 720 637
S50 part number: 11 14 1 703 666

Brew & stu- You have both rebulit, or are working are rebuilding m50s, do you have a list of part numbers you used?

Thanks-
Addis

[permit]

You can delete vanos, just get a non-vanos head, and a non-vanos M50 wiring harness.

[Addissimo]

so a non-vanos head will fit on a vanos block for sure?

what about cams- would I have to get custom ground cams, or could I use the s52 cams?

I dont need the wiring harness- I'm running a standalone system.

[permit]

I'm under the impression that the blocks are the same whether its vanos or non-vanos, its just the wiring and head that are different. You can run hotter cams in a non-vanos, not sure which cams you're allowed/not allowed to use.

[Jarvis]

I'm pretty sure you can't use Vanos cams in a non-Vanos head.

Non-Vanos cams are already relatively "hot", but to bring them up to M3 specs you can put the stock intake cam on the exhaust side and get a new/reground cam made for the intake side at S50 stock intake specs.

Supposedly that's what everyone does in their 2.9L non-vanos strokers. You can buy a prebuilt ~240whp ( or more?) high compression 2.9L for about $5K I believe.
One guy on bf.c made 212whp from just a 2.5L non-vanos with cams and great tuning.

[Addissimo]

Still on my magical journey...

I've been reading too much- but i've decided that I dont think I want ultra-radical cams, if the non-vanos cams are pretty hot anyway- i kind of wonder if they wont do the trick with some head porting and a 3.2l bottom end.

It is going into my cabby- so it wont see any track time, mostly autocross time, daily driving, and spritited driving.

Its not a dyno whore, i dont care what kind of hp numbers I get, and truthfully i'd rather get torque.

Sticking with a mild-medium cam seems like the way to go.

Any thoughts?

[joshh]

Just do it.
Is that good advise?

I don't know if I would chance the whole vanos/non vanos head thing.

[Addissimo]

does anybody know of a good shop to send my block to in the northwest to be bored? I was going to do it locally- but then I realized that you need a torque plate to do it properly, and I don't really want to spend $400 for the torque plate that I'll probably use once, and $200 for the cylinder boring... its a bit rediculous.

-Addis

[joshh]

So hows this going so far?

[Addissimo]

I am going to just do a stroker motor using a 3.2 crankshaft/rods, and maybe stock pistons. I'm also looking at some weisco forged pistons from TMS that are .91 overbore, but I don't really know if I want to bore my engine or not- Torque plates are bloody expensive for a one-time use item...

I'm going to stick with my vanos head- I found one of the greatest things in the world (for me) and that is a RPM Activated Window Switch, part no 8956, or 8969. I'll probably opt for 8969 because it costs pretty much the same as 8956, it is digital, so I don't have to worry about MSD rpm plugs, and it operates a bit higher amperage solenoid without the use of a relay.

All I have to do is connect it to the tach-output on my coils, attach the vanos to the switched 12v, and attach the vanos ground to the msd unit and I have vanos control baby!

I'll probably go with m3 cams/valvetrain.

Shit's starting to get expensive unfortunately.

I designed a custom crank pully that already has holes drilled into it for my trigger magnets- I'm still perfecting it to make sure it fits perfectly- hopefully it'll weigh in the 2lb> range, I'm going to opt for an aluminum m20 flywheel- the one i had lightened only managed to get down to 15lbs... 8lbs sounds better to me...

The only reason i'm doing a lightweight main pully, and flywheel is because I'm getting the bottom end ballanced, so vibration differences wont be a worry.

I'm starting to tear the engine down this week,

The crank & rods will be available for $150 if anybody is interested.

Thats all the update I have.

-addis

edit: I also have some 3.2 pisons available with 10k miles> on them.

[Beej '86 325es]

I designed a custom crank pully that already has holes drilled into it for my trigger magnets- I'm still perfecting it to make sure it fits perfectly- hopefully it'll weigh in the 2lb> range, I'm going to opt for an aluminum m20 flywheel- the one i had lightened only managed to get down to 15lbs... 8lbs sounds better to me...

The only reason i'm doing a lightweight main pully, and flywheel is because I'm getting the bottom end ballanced, so vibration differences wont be a worry.

I'd be careful with that. I don't know if balancing will fix it or not...maybe (I'm no expert). But I've read a lot about people with M50's having issues with the Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Crank Pulley. You see them for sale on Bimmerforums all the time. They say you definitely don't want both the lightened pulley AND flywheel though.

[Addissimo]

I'd be careful with that. I don't know if balancing will fix it or not...maybe (I'm no expert). But I've read a lot about people with M50's having issues with the Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Crank Pulley. You see them for sale on Bimmerforums all the time. They say you definitely don't want both the lightened pulley AND flywheel though.

I was under the impression that was because the engine was ballanced originally to have a 24lb flywheel and a 14lb crank pully.

The guy that is going to ballance my bottom end will have the new pully and flywheel on the crank when he ballances everything. I'm pretty sure that makes it ok.