Clutch issues- Totally STUMPED- !!FIXED 4/9

[gobuffs]

Actually, this is incorrect. It can be installed incorrectly and it will keep the Slave from reaching the fork correctly. FYI

At least somebody isn't high and mighty...thank you.

And if you know what I have done to my car over the years, I think you can safely say I am not a "mutha fuckin dumbass."- thank you Mr Swiss....please tell me that to my face sometime.

I shoudl say...and it appears to make more of a difference...that I did it with the Bimmerworld aluminum throwout bearing and not a stock one. See pic 1 (tob1)....the left one is the Bimmerworld piece, the right one is a stock E46 M3 one. You can see the steps on the part and how much it differs from 90 degrees out. The E46 piece has the same step off but not nearly as great. In the 2nd pic you can see that the diameter is identical if you install it 90 degrees out but the flats aren't on the 90 degree out side so the throwout bearing will have more radial play in the fork. Not paying attention to when I put it in caused the problem, but it CAN go in easily without forcing it. The net result is a clutch that won't disengage.

Looks like the tranny will have to come out to solve the issue and the throwout bearing is easily ruled in or ruled out...jsut something to consider.

Back to the normal bashing of "mutha fuckin dumbass" posters.

[ForcedFirebird]

Actually, this is incorrect. It can be installed incorrectly and it will keep the Slave from reaching the fork correctly. FYI

Reread the post. He mentioned the flats facing North/South vs East/West, as long as the bearing faces the clutch and it's on the front of the fork, it's kinda hard to mess up beyond that.

[giantkeeper]

Wait, no. Thats impossible. The only way you could install it is 180deg off (upsidedown) , and even if so, its universal side to side. Both ears are the same.

Actually, this is incorrect. It can be installed incorrectly and it will keep the Slave from reaching the fork correctly. FYI

[FredK]

Yes, if you use a G250 slave cylinder, the clutch effort is decreased--which means it has more of a hydraulic ratio between master and slave. Therefore, the overall travel is likely decreased, which would make this problem worse.

I tried a G250 slave, and I did not like the engagement point, so I switched back to a ZF slave.

[Jonny Cash]

danny that sounds good. i searched it but didnt find anything.

g, the disk is marked "gearbox side" so its hard to install incorrectly

[e30 gangsta]

This might sound crazy, but is the clutch in backwards? we had an e30 where the clutch was put in backwards and the clutch wouldn't disengage.

[Danny]

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that the non-M slave has more travel, or that you need to mix and match clutch hydraulics a bit to get it to work correctly. I'll see if I can dig anything up.

[Jonny Cash]

Yes the slave is extremely easy to remove and replace, and fits in there fine..:???:

The only thing I may of left out is the flywheel.. I did have the dual mass resurfaced. I wasnt told the exact amount of material removed, but according to the machinist it was a safe amount.

Theres a tad bit of build-up on the new CMC, so I had another new one overnighted just incase it was faulty.. You never know. If this doesent work i guess the trans will have to come down again, and Ill spec the flywheel...

Sucks because I have a track event this weekend, it wouldve been awesome to get the car out there.

[ForcedFirebird]

The slave can come out, we have done it 3 times on this car alone and have worked on countless swaps at our shop.

Today, I bled the slave out of the trans (3rd time) using a c-clamp to keep the rod from poking out. There is absolutely NO air in the lines, but the clutch is still not fully disengaging and the car creeps forward when trying to go in gear.

It feels as though there's not enough travel in the slave to let the clutch fully release.

The worst part is this is a complete swap from a 97 m3 that was running/driving fine, not our typical issues of mismatched parts. Fresh clutch, TOB, master, slave and pressure plate, all part numbers are correct, it's simply not working properly for some odd reason.

[cabin]

I am have a ZF320 and a ZF slave. Fits fine.

Same here. Its not fun removing and replacing the slave but its doable.

[FredK]

I am have a ZF320 and a ZF slave. Fits fine.

[Wanganstyle]

unfortunately it is impossible to install the ZF slave in a ZF in an e30. It's just too damn tight

really? I just fit in the ZF slave on my ZF6MT yesterday with trans in the car.

it comes in/out just need to have a stainless flexible line with the right length etc-

[328ijunkie]

Bleed. and bleed again. You should have firm firm pressure the second you touch the pedal.

[Jonny Cash]

well in that case let me go double check i have the correct slave because mine goes in and out no problem. ive bled it both connected and disconnected to the trans.

[Mr.SWISS]

If you say so. BTDT.

it's slotted, and so is the pivot shaft. If you somehow shoved it on there forcefully, blatantly ignoring the slotted provision in both parts.

You is a mutha fuckin dumbass.


Having the exact same setup my advise is going to be to go back to the slave. unfortunately it is impossible to install the ZF slave in a ZF in an e30. It's just too damn tight.

What I did was installed the slave and line on the trans when I stabbed it in as an assembly. There is no bleeding it, just pump the pedal by hand until it builds pressure, I never cracked the bleed screw once. If you're like me you went with the best braking setup, an E32 double chamber booster with a 25mm master already on it, and thus have a 2002tii remote res.

You can see bubbles come up through the res as you pump and should feel the pedal have resistance after about 10 minutes of pumping.

My clutch does engage pretty close to the floor, so much I never installed a clutch stop, doesn't need one!