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Soft brakes - check your booster adjustment

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    Soft brakes - check your booster adjustment

    I feel pretty stupid right now, but at least I've fixed my soft brakes.

    Not much else to say, really. If you have perfectly functional brakes, but a significant amount of travel before they do anything, check this. It could easily mean that your booster clevis is too short.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
    2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
    1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
    1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
    - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
    1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
    Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

    sigpic

    #2
    Only if more people would be willing to admit their mistakes so we could have a comprehensive collection of mistakes and solutions..

    Thank you!
    Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
    Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
    ___________________________________________
    BNB Designs
    Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair
    Richmond CA
    Julian 848-248-8029

    Comment


      #3
      how do you adjust it?
      Bought parts from me before? leave your feedback here

      Comment


        #4
        OMG, I just posted asking about this problem!! What do I do??
        REMEMBER: Be safe and have fun is Rule Number 1.

        The Epic Unbuild of Clint Eastwood

        Comment


          #5
          got this problem, how do i troubleshoot?

          Comment


            #6
            For starters, the feeling is almost exactly like air in the system that just won't bleed out. Which is annoying because it makes it rather hard to identify. This makes it unlikely to be the cause of soft pedal issues in a normal E30, but pretty likely in a swapped car.

            The way that you adjust this is by disconnecting the booster clevis from the brake pedal and then extending it out. My method was to adjust it out until I just barely had to tug on the brake pedal to slide the pin in. Half a turn in from there would probably have been just fine, and half a turn out would lock the brakes. (My test was whether or not I could easily push the car.)

            Note: Access with the booster in the car is poor. If you can't easily get the booster clevis loose, remove the pedals. It's VERY easy to undo the big bolt that holds the pedals on to the pedal box and get both of them out of the way. I do not believe that I could have applied the necessary torque to the lock nut without doing that.

            Also, the booster rod can spin in the booster. When you are done testing, put the lock nut back on. I don't know how likely it is that it'll spin under use, but it is possible.
            2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
            2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
            1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
            1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
            - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
            1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
            1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

            Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
            Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              Hey thanks, i also get that swooshing noise when i press the pedal while it's traveling the distance until it hardens. Is that one of the symptoms too or something else?
              I was blaming the air trapped in the ABS pump for the soft pedal, but i'll try this

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by static View Post
                Hey thanks, i also get that swooshing noise when i press the pedal while it's traveling the distance until it hardens. Is that one of the symptoms too or something else?
                I was blaming the air trapped in the ABS pump for the soft pedal, but i'll try this
                The swooshing noise is generally just the sound that the booster makes. When the brakes are working correctly, you won't hear it in normal use, but it's there whenever you are using a lot of travel.

                If you're confident in your brake bleeding, or even if not, this is easy to check and free to fix. That makes it fairly high up the list of things to do when troubleshooting a car that has had the booster altered.
                2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  kudos for admitting/posting this. No worries I did the same thing in my racecar....
                  '87 325ic, powered by S50.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Interesting. When you say "disconnect the clevis and extend it out" you're refering to this?



                    And I want to move it back on the threaded rod, away from the booster?
                    REMEMBER: Be safe and have fun is Rule Number 1.

                    The Epic Unbuild of Clint Eastwood

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yes. Lengthen the rod if it is a little short when you disconnect the clevis from the pedal pivot.
                      2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                      2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                      1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                      1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                      - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                      1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                      1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                      Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                      Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                      sigpic

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Fuck me sideways. I've had soft brakes for a long time after repeated bleedings (sinks an inch or two and then firms up). I'm gonna check this and report back.

                        Edit: damn. Wasn't the problem, although I was only able to get the clevis to align with the pedal all the way out. Couldn't go any further.
                        Last edited by Wh33lhop; 04-30-2012, 10:33 PM.
                        paint sucks

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Won't this get the pedal closer to the floor? Essentially you're removing the "dead soft spot" and getting the pedal closer to the floor right?
                          Originally posted by TSI
                          ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
                          OEM+

                          Comment


                            #14
                            No. This would do the opposite.
                            paint sucks

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Wh33lhop View Post
                              Fuck me sideways. I've had soft brakes for a long time after repeated bleedings (sinks an inch or two and then firms up). I'm gonna check this and report back.

                              Edit: damn. Wasn't the problem, although I was only able to get the clevis to align with the pedal all the way out. Couldn't go any further.
                              are you running a spacer in your setup? if you are, set the clevis further in and just remove the spacer and adjust from there.

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