too many threads about exhaust headers but...

[singh336]

I'm just trying to find some ebay headers that would fit my non vanos m50 before I put it in the car.

Do I need the O2's on the headers or could I put them further down the line?

I am going to stay away from long tube headers because they don't work for everyone and with my luck I bet they won't work either.


My setup is with the E30 gt260 if that makes any difference in clearance or not.


I'm looking at these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1999-BMW-E36-Header-/170834775402?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c68bcd6a&vxp=mtr#ht_2440wt_1163

for 150 shipped they look like a good deal and I would imagine the clearance should be great?

A forum member told me he used these

http://www.racelandus.com/exhaust-headers/bmw-e36-exhaust-header.html

which look nice but they are 200 and I'm seeing similar headers, knock off of course here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-00-BMW-3-5-E34-E36-E39-NON-US-Model-SS-Exhaust-Header-/150802679811?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item231c8a4803&vxp=mtr#ht_2827wt_1396

The only thing throwing me off is it says NON US, is there a difference , will they not fit the US spec ? Or is that just an exhaust emission thing? They look very close to the raceland headers



Anyone have clear advice on what is the best for clearance and price? I know the racelands aren't too expensive, but after shipping it could make a difference and everything counts, at least where I can help it.

[SkorcherX]

Yeah I used the Raceland shorties. If Nando drops by he will tell you that shorties are a waste. I have never heard the reasoning behind this, however I went down the long tube road and was unable to get them to fit in the car. The shorties allowed me lots of clearance.

My only dislike to the shorties is that they are raspy at 4K and higher in the RPM range.

Also all the above mentioned headers are cheap and will discolor within the first 20 minutes of running the car. So don't get all attached to that shiny nickel plating.

[singh336]

yeah I could care less about the looks, but that's good to know, as long as they don't blow apart and start leaking.

I'll be DDing the car around town and on the highway, no intense track use other than some random track days.

[singh336]

I think I'll order the ones that say NON US, because it looks like they would fit just fine

[SkorcherX]

Non US headers are designed to allow room for a steering column on the right-hand side of the car.

[singh336]

Non US headers are designed to allow room for a steering column on the right-hand side of the car.

gotcha ! makes sense, they should of just said RHD / LHD etc

[Jand3rson]

My only dislike to the shorties is that they are raspy at 4K and higher in the RPM range.

Also all the above mentioned headers are cheap and will discolor within the first 20 minutes of running the car. So don't get all attached to that shiny nickel plating.

Good way to take care of both of those problems is to have them inside/outside ceramic coated. The rasp comes from the thin metal used on them, and the ceramic coating will do a good job of reducing or cancelling out the rasp altogether. Then you also get a choice of a few colors, and a dramatic reduction in under-hood temps.

[eurosport22]

i have these. i put them on before i dropped the motor in and it was fine. 2 washers under the passenger side motor mount and the cleared the crossmember fine. oh i also welded on the flowmaster y which comes back perfect and im gonna have the exhaust shop take it from there. flowmaster p/n from jegs is y200250

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=Y200250

ill post up a few pictures when i get to my other computer tonight

[singh336]

pictures would be great, jegs site is down for now it says ill check later tho

[eurosport22]

you have to hold that adapter up and find the angle and have to cut the pipes a little bit. but heres how mine turned out. page 2 of this thread shows how to set this up nicely. Janderson has a nice write up on it

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=235233&highlight=exhaust+setup

[tonytony]

Yeah I used the Raceland shorties. If Nando drops by he will tell you that shorties are a waste. I have never heard the reasoning behind this

googled this

This is a question of exhuast gas scavenging efficiency. Effective scavenging is an extremely important factor to consider in maximizing your engine's volumetric efficiency, or "V.E." Although the most thorough answer is one that takes far too long to put in this post, Ill give you the shortened one.
Long tube headers are headers where your primary tubes are on average, at least 28" in length, they are also much more narrow that thier short tube counter parts. These type of headers, generally speaking, are best when used on a street rod, or "smoke show" application. Basically, lighting up the tires from stoplight to stoplight, generally with a mid to low power band. This is because of the way the engine breathes at mid and lower RPM's.

At the low to mid end, the best way to maximize your scavenging effect, thus helping to maximize your engine's V.E., Is to move the exhuast out of the engine as fast as possible, or with as much velocity as possible. Long tubes work best for this because of their length, and their width (well, lack of width). Thier length allows an elongated path for the gas to flow, thus allowing the gas to leave the cylinder with more speed because the gas has more time to gain velocity before it hits the collector.

Now, you've heard car enthusiasts state that ANY restriction is bad for a motor, no matter what. This is not completly true, in your exhaust, small, strategically placed, smooth mandrel restrictions can be a good thing due to the fact that well place, correct sized restrictions followed by larger openings actually speed up exhuast gas flow. So the smaller diameter tubes actually serve your scavenging better in the mid and low ranges.

Mid and low ranges dont produce alot of actual exhuast volume, so small tubes dont restrict or "back up" flow.

LARGE, SHORT TUBE HEADERS MAKE FOR "LAZY" EXHUAST GAS SPEED WHEN EXHUAST VOLUME IS LOW!! (as it is in the low and mid range).

However, if you dont even begin to tip into your power band untill about 3700, you may consider short tubes. High RPM operation in a big motor (not talking about 4 bangers here), yeild LARGE amounts of exhuast gas discharge. THIS is where you need the larger diameter tubes, to get more volume out of the cylinder. THIS is where you can loose power due to pumping losses on the exhuast stroke. In an ideal world, your exhuast system would be soooo effective, that by the time that pistion STARTS coming up on the exhuast stroke, your ports and headers will have scavenged all exhuast gas out of the cylinder during the duration of the exhuast pulse. If there's no sizable amount to push out, there in a low pressure area in the cylinder (also known as vacuum), almost causing a "pulling up" affect on the piston. So, your not loosing power by pushing, your gaining power by being pulled.