So on my swap (NV M50, M42 radiator, SPAL electric fan), my electric fan stopped coming on. I was using the old M20 radiator fan/temp switch in the M42 radiator (the 2 prong spade-connector type), and it was working fine. Then the fan stopped working, so we replaced it with the 3 prong from a Z3 1.9, same one GPS uses on all their cars. New switch/sensor, and wiring leads. Got it all hooked up, and the fan still isn't coming on.
We jumped the wiring leads, and the fan does work. Both the main radiator hoses on each end are getting good and hot, and the gauge is going all the way to the red before we shut the engine down. Coolant is flowing through the radiator.
Another thing I noticed was the temp gauge in the dash didn't start to read until the car had been on and running for about 10 minutes, it sat completely dead. Then the needle suddenly jumped to just over 3/4, and started to climb normally to about 1/2. It sat there for a bit, then dropped down to just a hair under 1/2, and then climbed steadily until it got to the red, and then we shut it down. Still no fan.
Our suspicion is that *maybe* the needle on the temp gauge is off by about a 1/4 (since I took it off at some point long ago to paint it), and that's why it's taking a good 10 minutes or so before it starts to read anything. But it seemed to work normally before, which is what's puzzling. Tomorrow, we're going to check the radiator temps with a laser temp gun, and see what temps it's actually running at.
Does anyone have or know of something that will tell me what temp the cooling system should be in relation to where the needle sits on the gauge? If I could find out what temp the cooling system is at in relation to where the needle is reading, I could find out if I have the needle off by about 1/4 or so.
We jumped the wiring leads, and the fan does work. Both the main radiator hoses on each end are getting good and hot, and the gauge is going all the way to the red before we shut the engine down. Coolant is flowing through the radiator.
Another thing I noticed was the temp gauge in the dash didn't start to read until the car had been on and running for about 10 minutes, it sat completely dead. Then the needle suddenly jumped to just over 3/4, and started to climb normally to about 1/2. It sat there for a bit, then dropped down to just a hair under 1/2, and then climbed steadily until it got to the red, and then we shut it down. Still no fan.
Our suspicion is that *maybe* the needle on the temp gauge is off by about a 1/4 (since I took it off at some point long ago to paint it), and that's why it's taking a good 10 minutes or so before it starts to read anything. But it seemed to work normally before, which is what's puzzling. Tomorrow, we're going to check the radiator temps with a laser temp gun, and see what temps it's actually running at.
Does anyone have or know of something that will tell me what temp the cooling system should be in relation to where the needle sits on the gauge? If I could find out what temp the cooling system is at in relation to where the needle is reading, I could find out if I have the needle off by about 1/4 or so.
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