M20 oil cooler - effective on the 24v motors?

[butters]

I've dealt thoroughly with oil pressure issues, ticking lifters, etc. after rebuilding my S50. Bent over for a new oil pump and lifters, and the motor finally sounds normal.

I still have flickering oil pressure light at low idle when hot (when it bounces during coasting :rolleyes ) which I believe is bad oil squirter(s) but I'm confident in the oil system now.

I want to add an oil cooler, to help maintain the viscosity and thus pressure, and assist my M42 radiator in the summer months. My car is a 318i though, so I'm starting from scratch.

I've picked up an S54 filter housing, deciding against the IE cap after hearing about leaks and the lack of a thermostat. I figure I'll get the AN10 adapter piece and the banjo bolt adapter from VAC or Bimmerworld, and some pre-assembled lines with AN-10 fittings. The missing piece is the cooler itself.

The M20 unit has the benefit of being cheap ($40 for a used one plus $20 in M22 to AN10 adapters) and easily bolted on with the factory brackets, which I'd also have to find. The downside appears to be that it isn't very big.

Does anyone have any experience with an M20 oil cooler on their 24v car? Recommendations for/against, other suggestions? I'm trying to be cost effective, it's a daily driver that I'd like to be able to track but only occasionally.

[!kid]

My opinion you'll be just fine using a m20 cooler, just beware of the possibly of getting a cooler from a engine that was fuckt. Leaving all kinds of nasty shit on the inside of the cooler. Optionautosalon.com has a B&M oil cooler for 106$ quality product, my work offers them as cheaper alternative to our coolers.

[SpeedRacer85]

If you need the cooler I have one lmk if u want it.

[Fusion]

Your idle shouldn't bounce. I think the oil light flickering may be caused by the low revs and may not have anything to do with the pressure.
If you want to be sure, get an oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge.
An M20 cooler won't have much effect on oil temps unless you're tracking the car. During normal driving, even on hot days, you're nowhere near temperatures that could damage the properties of good oil.
My M50 runs 3.5bar oil pressure at ambient temps (start) and 1.5bar at operating temp. There's pretty much no way to keep it at 3bar and I don't think there's a reason to try.
I've read loads of info about lifter tick. Basically, if they tick the first 10-15s at startup, there's no reason to try to fix anything. Ticking during operation temps means bad lifter (usually only one or two). Ticking while tracking the car is bad news and can lead to damage but is usually caused by insufficient oil pickup, mostly after long hard turns. This is cured by adding a 1/2 quart of oil for track days = top line on dipstick, but not over.
In my experience, I have had tick after a long turn during a track day. I let off the gas immediately (though it took a while to understand what the sound was) and did a "cold lap" and then kept running full throttle just fine. Though I am thinking about getting an oil cooler for track days, because my gauge often shows temps near the manf's recommendations and I'd like to be 10-20°C lower in these conditions. I won't be getting an M20 cooler because of how low it sits. You can find other options used by owners here.

[nrubenstein]

Your idle shouldn't bounce. I think the oil light flickering may be caused by the low revs and may not have anything to do with the pressure.
If you want to be sure, get an oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge.
An M20 cooler won't have much effect on oil temps unless you're tracking the car. During normal driving, even on hot days, you're nowhere near temperatures that could damage the properties of good oil.
My M50 runs 3.5bar oil pressure at ambient temps (start) and 1.5bar at operating temp. There's pretty much no way to keep it at 3bar and I don't think there's a reason to try.
I've read loads of info about lifter tick. Basically, if they tick the first 10-15s at startup, there's no reason to try to fix anything. Ticking during operation temps means bad lifter (usually only one or two). Ticking while tracking the car is bad news and can lead to damage but is usually caused by insufficient oil pickup, mostly after long hard turns. This is cured by adding a 1/2 quart of oil for track days = top line on dipstick, but not over.
In my experience, I have had tick after a long turn during a track day. I let off the gas immediately (though it took a while to understand what the sound was) and did a "cold lap" and then kept running full throttle just fine. Though I am thinking about getting an oil cooler for track days, because my gauge often shows temps near the manf's recommendations and I'd like to be 10-20°C lower in these conditions. I won't be getting an M20 cooler because of how low it sits. You can find other options used by owners here.

LOL. M50s and all variants will tick. Add an extra quart and forget about it. If it isn't ticking after hard driving, you weren't driving fast enough.

[Fusion]

Well, yes, that sums up what I wrote. But high revs + tick = floating valves = can damage valves. But we're talking 7K+ rpm so not a DD worry.