fitting m50 wiring under 318 harness cover

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  • justin_l_
    replied
    You don't have to change the length unless you are working with an e34 harness. You only remove wiring from accessories you are no longer planning on using.

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  • ngampleh
    replied
    any detail which wire shortened or lengthened?
    so the wiring can reach 318i ECU bracket and fit with 318i wiring cover

    r3v member "lifeiskaos" did very nice wiring modification as below pic

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  • frankie591
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    solder + engine bay heat + vibrations= electrical grimlins. Notice the factory doesnt solder anything short of circuit boards?
    the melting temperature of solder is 180C or like 350F. I had my OBC air temp sensor hanging out in the engine bay for a little while, and it never read higher than 45C or so.

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  • chrisbmx68
    replied
    m3 side cover came yesterday, tiny bit of trimming for my battery tray delete, and had to shave the m42 portion a bit to clear the m50 intake manifold. Other than that snaps on like stock with room to spare udnerneath.

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  • Den_k321
    replied

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  • bzboardz
    replied
    i see a lot of people using zip ties to hold the wires in, I found it easier in my application to leave the zip ties loose and let the wires take the shape of the cover as I put it on.

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  • chrisbmx68
    replied
    They don't solder things because of time and efficiency with oem crimping tools and terminals. Trust me I have done enough wiring to know that a proper solder joint and heat shrink is many times better and cleaner than using butt connectors. If your engine bay is getting hot enough to melt solder to the point that your joints fail, it means you have way more serious issues to worry about, or are terrible at soldering. This isnt even taking into consideration the propensity for exposed copper wire to oxidize in open air crimp splices.

    Also in the after pic you can see that I have 2 sets of splices offset and tons of room for the cover to fit, the wire bundle actually fits in the space behind the relays.
    Last edited by chrisbmx68; 09-18-2012, 05:53 AM.

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  • NufnSus
    replied
    Sorry, slightly OT, but;

    Is it possible to use the cover panel of the 318is/ M3 harness that sits behind the battery tray (L/H in pic below) in an engine bay where the battery itself sits upfront?

    Originally posted by BBDirtbiking

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    solder + engine bay heat + vibrations= electrical grimlins. Notice the factory doesnt solder anything short of circuit boards?

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  • M3PO
    replied
    ^I would have staggered all of this splices so as to not make the harness really thivk in one place.

    Not looking forward to this. I have an auto harness too.

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  • chrisbmx68
    replied
    I did a lot of soldering and shortening
    started with this

    ended with this

    still need to retape the bundle for all the sensors under the intake mani.

    extended/shortened relay wires and did this many splices in addition to new main power and ground leads.

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  • cormier
    replied
    Originally posted by e30rapidic
    I cleaned up my harness, cut out the excess wire. etc. You'll find there are many, many feet of un-necessary wire in there!



    Nice even your battery looks nice -- this gives me ambition to fit the rest of mine on

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  • bmwdready347
    replied
    looks great
    what break booster r u using and shift linkage

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  • bmwdready347
    replied
    looks great man
    what brake booster r u useing and shift linkage

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  • Roysneon
    replied
    Yeah, I did some simplifying of the wires and some forcing but it's on there now. I.realize now how much longer than necessary I made my wiring going from the harness to the c101. Some time when I'm more anbitious I'll shorten those up and get rid of unused ones.

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