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    Stripped oil pan bolt

    Something always has to go wrong.
    When changing the oil pan on my s52 to the e34 one of the oil pan bolts stripped.
    Its one of the front timing cover ones. I think it happened cause I used a drill and went too much and its aluminum



    what are my options?


    Would it be fine to just go without it?
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    1989 BMW 325i SOLD
    1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
    1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
    1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207

    #2
    That is a bitch of a place to try and tap a new hole, find a longer tap and rethread it.

    OR if the bolt will tighten up enough to hold in place just leave it in there and check it every other day. There is alot of bolts that hold that pan in place, new gasket and other ones tighten up proper will hold up fine.

    You're not FI'd so I would not worry about it.

    Any good shop can tap that for you under 30 bucks, should take only 5-10 minutes. If you were local I could tap it fast.

    I took my tap and welded it to a 6" extension to use on a ratchet.
    ~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~

    Instagram: @BWeissLeather

    Current cars:
    ~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
    ~ '87 535
    ~ 01 540 Msport 6spd
    ~ '06 X5 4.8is

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by F34R View Post
      That is a bitch of a place to try and tap a new hole, find a longer tap and rethread it.

      OR if the bolt will tighten up enough to hold in place just leave it in there and check it every other day. There is alot of bolts that hold that pan in place, new gasket and other ones tighten up proper will hold up fine.

      You're not FI'd so I would not worry about it.

      Any good shop can tap that for you under 30 bucks, should take only 5-10 minutes. If you were local I could tap it fast.

      I took my tap and welded it to a 6" extension to use on a ratchet.
      I could take off the harmonic balancer and access it just find probably. Engine is on a stand so it makes it easier.

      The threads are completely gone
      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

      1989 BMW 325i SOLD
      1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
      1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
      1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207

      Comment


        #4
        I would retap it, if you dont want to retap it then helicoil it.
        Your resource to do-it-yourself and interesting bmw and e30 stuff: www.rtsauto.com

        Your resource to tools and tips: www.rtstools.com

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by noid View Post
          I would retap it, if you dont want to retap it then helicoil it.
          Whatever is easiest! I'm assuming that would be a retag
          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          1989 BMW 325i SOLD
          1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
          1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
          1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207

          Comment


            #6
            I would helicoil it. Then you still use the same size bolt and it's stronger then it would be without the insert.

            Comment


              #7
              just tap it by hand, use a chuck with adjustable leverage bar and do half turns.


              easiest way to do it by far.

              Comment


                #8
                Did you get the fucking head on your e30 yet pantless? I swear to everything rare in the BMW world, if you don't in a week you should be banned for uselessness.

                And way to go posting a useless comment that was posted at the start by me. Not promoting myself, seems like you don't read and just post dumb crap to get your post count up. Remember my advice? sign out of r3v, go do fucking work.

                Originally posted by cjdontthink View Post
                I could take off the harmonic balancer and access it just find probably. Engine is on a stand so it makes it easier.

                The threads are completely gone
                Don't go through all that, just get the proper size tap and rethread it. You can get taps that are plenty long enough to get the job done without removing all that. Good luck and keep us updated.

                Since it is on stands, if you run into issues with the tap not clearing...just mail the tap and a 3" extension, I will weld it up for free. Least I can do to help out =)
                Last edited by F34R; 09-14-2012, 11:28 PM.
                ~ Puch Cafe. ~ Do business? feedback ~ Check out my leather company ~

                Instagram: @BWeissLeather

                Current cars:
                ~ '87 325 M30B35 swap
                ~ '87 535
                ~ 01 540 Msport 6spd
                ~ '06 X5 4.8is

                Comment


                  #9
                  this might sound dumb to you F34r, but how the hell do you tap a bolt hole that no longer has threads (or metal anymore to tap into?

                  to do it correctly, you are going to need to tap it to a larger size thread and pull the pan off to enlarge the hole in the pan. might have a bit of luck if you can find an SAE thread tap and make those threads SAE, and leave the pan on.

                  or JB weld a stud in there and use a nut-- its ony 8-10 nm tight.--might work.
                  Last edited by mikeedler; 09-15-2012, 04:55 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mikeedler View Post
                    this might sound dumb to you F34r, but how the hell do you tap a bolt hole that no longer has threads (or metal anymore to tap into?

                    to do it correctly, you are going to need to tap it to a larger size thread and pull the pan off to enlarge the hole in the pan. might have a bit of luck if you can find an SAE thread tap and make those threads SAE, and leave the pan on.

                    or JB weld a stud in there and use a nut-- its ony 8-10 nm tight.--might work.
                    The plan was to just make it bigger. SAE or not
                    I just need something holding the oil pan to the block
                    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                    1989 BMW 325i SOLD
                    1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
                    1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
                    1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207

                    Comment


                      #11
                      USE A THREADED INSERT.

                      You drill the hole bigger, thread it with an STI tap, the screw the insert in, giving you a threaded hole that is the original size. You do not need to pull the oil pan to do this.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                        USE A THREADED INSERT.

                        You drill the hole bigger, thread it with an STI tap, the screw the insert in, giving you a threaded hole that is the original size. You do not need to pull the oil pan to do this.
                        Do they make thread insert kits?
                        Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                        1989 BMW 325i SOLD
                        1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
                        1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
                        1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by cjdontthink View Post
                          Do they make thread insert kits?
                          yes go to orileys pep boys etc. buy a helicoil kit about $30.00 cant remember bolt size 6mm ? any way take a bolt with you . you will have to remove the pan ro properly drill and seat helicoil fix it now not later. GL
                          My CA legal M60 swap

                          The happening in our garage

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 36brua View Post
                            yes go to orileys pep boys etc. buy a helicoil kit about $30.00 cant remember bolt size 6mm ? any way take a bolt with you . you will have to remove the pan ro properly drill and seat helicoil fix it now not later. GL
                            Removing the pan is no biggy! Its on a stand will only take a couple mins.
                            Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                            1989 BMW 325i SOLD
                            1998 BMW Estoril Blue e36 M3/4/5 SOLD
                            1987 BMW 325 (The Piece) SOLD
                            1991 BMW 318is S52 swap (The Beast) Now Driving Project Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=234207

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Clean the hole out as best you can, apply JB weld to a extra bolt, install bolt into hole. Wait a couple hours and back the bolt out quickly. 2 part epoxy putty works even better http://www.por15.com/EPOXY-PUTTY/productinfo/PU/ . Helicoil is the best but its just a pan bolt without much torque.

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