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    #31
    Originally posted by butters View Post
    Can anyone who's gone from E28 mounts to poly (AKG) mounts comment on the difference in NVH? I am avoiding poly in my suspension/subframe etc for comfort... but the 70A is supposed to be close to rubber. Thoughts?
    I have done exactly what you are asking.

    I didnt notice any change in NVH, but my car is already more solid than most, so that could explain the lack of vibration.
    My previous build (currently E30-less)
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390

    A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsession

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      #32
      Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
      Can use the Condor Speed Shop solid mounts.

      I have never seen an e28 mount break like that, not even with a 400hp 24v turbo.
      While it wasnt turboed, nor did it have quite 400 rwhp, it came pretty close.



      This amount of power could have led to their ultimate demise. But I have heard of a multitude of E30 owners who have experienced failure with these mounts.
      My previous build (currently E30-less)
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=170390

      A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad in Inferno is my newest obsession

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by MR E30 325is View Post
        Heres one reason to avoid using the mounts designed for another car.



        Don't worry too much. It only did about 550 dollars worth of damage.

        I now run the AKG poly mounts to avoid another catastrophe like this.
        How the hell can you crack 1/4in solid steel like that on the left one?
        From what I understand, the green mounts are designed to pop like the one on the right. The upper part breaks and sits in the cup. This is because if you break any other type of mount, the damage will be much worse because there's basically no movement restriction (ie. if an M20 mount stud snaps).
        Also, seeing how shiny the rubber is on that mount, are you sure you had good heat insulation around the mount?
        I need to make a shield on mine, because custom headers are often very close to the mount and I've had my hand down there after a track session and the potential problem is pretty obvious.
        Last edited by Fusion; 10-27-2012, 09:26 AM.

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          #34
          Originally posted by smooth View Post
          Has anyone tried this and not been able to get it to work or what are the main reasons for not doing this mod?
          .
          I would do it if I had the time. I would much rather prefer to have a stud running straight through my engine mount bushing instead of the offset bushings or spending $200 on the AKG ones.

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            #35
            Originally posted by iceman View Post
            I would do it if I had the time. I would much rather prefer to have a stud running straight through my engine mount bushing instead of the offset bushings or spending $200 on the AKG ones.
            You could spend $110 on the Revshift mounts and have a lifetime warranty.

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              #36
              Originally posted by smooth View Post
              ok there's two different issues that we were trying to address here:

              1. why are people using motor mounts from a different series in an upside down orientation instead of simply welding mount tabs where they are supposed to be at the correct angle?

              2. and two, how to remove what appeared to be two less inches of distance from tranny mount to engine mount
              wut? upside down mounts? 2 less inches? I had none of this...

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