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    S52 swap prep. Need advice.

    Hey fellas. So I finally got my hands on an s52. Pulled it today from a wrecked m3, everything went pretty smooth. Engine has 180K on it. Automatic trans. When we checked out the engine last week it started right up after it's been sitting for a while. I checked out the spark plugs and they were in an excellent shape. Compression was 180-185 throughout on a cold engine.

    So the dilemma is this:

    Original plan was to do basic shit. Cooling, gaskets, etc. Throw it in and hopefully get another 30K out of it, or so. Get it running so that I can get rid of my 545 and throw a bulk of cash at a "fresher" engine.

    But now I feel bad for the engine since it appears to be in a good shape. Is it worth the time and the effort to refresh the bottom end? Specifically: Hone, Rings, and bearings. No more than that. And refresh the head. Valve seals and guides. That's about it. Since I'm planning on doing the headgasket anyway.

    So basically should I invest into this engine or see how far it goes and get a lower mileage one?

    Thanks.

    #2
    Guess ill post this shit on bimmerforums then...

    Comment


      #3
      Get it in, get it running, drive it for a while, work all the bugs out, then pull and refresh the longblock.

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        #4
        If the engine is healthy, don't screw it up. Drive it until you want something else, engine-wise.

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          #5
          Engine has 180K on it.
          With that kind of mileage I can guarantee the timing chain guides are worn out and valve stem seals are hard as rock.

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            #6
            Thanks guys. I was planning on addressing the chain guides/ tensioner.

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              #7
              i have a s50 and was in a boat similar to yours. my top end had already been freshened when the cams went in so i didnt have to wory about the top end but i just did gaskets and threw the motor in and havent been disappointed yet. i did it because i knew at some point i would have some ttrouble and need to pull the motor back out, so in the meantime while i drive it i am saving for turbo parts for when i do pull it haha. id freshen the top end and throw it in there and drive it

              Comment


                #8
                ^ cool thanks man

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                  #9
                  Also I've been curious about the oil pump lifespan. Doing a search oil pump failures always leads to the backing off of the nut. Does anyone know if 180k oil pump would last? Since that would be the #1 potential engine failure. Replace it for the piece of mind? I appreciate the input.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by cmeptb13 View Post
                    Also I've been curious about the oil pump lifespan. Doing a search oil pump failures always leads to the backing off of the nut. Does anyone know if 180k oil pump would last? Since that would be the #1 potential engine failure. Replace it for the piece of mind? I appreciate the input.
                    you can drill the nut and basically "cotterpin" it, weld it, or locktite it. Im gonna red locktite mine, and see how it holds for my swap. GL!
                    -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                    91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                    08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                    04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                    Originally posted by IronJoe
                    Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                    Originally posted by 2mAn
                    Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by spiDmang View Post
                      you can drill the nut and basically "cotterpin" it, weld it, or locktite it. Im gonna red locktite mine, and see how it holds for my swap. GL!
                      I didnt have enough room to drill thru the nut so I just JB welded the Holy fuck out of it!
                      Attached Files
                      The Current Army
                      -(UnderConstruction) 1991 330iS 24v S52 build thread
                      -1992 325iC
                      -1987 E30 Truck
                      -1991 332iS (BecauseRacecar)
                      -1988 Dinan M3
                      -1988 325iX Tribute car
                      -1989 320i Touring (S52/6spd)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You don't need to drill it yourself. Just buy one from bimmerworld for $10.
                        Anyway my question wasn't about the nut. It's about the pump itself.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i'm in a similar boat. i'm planning on doing a leakdown and if the results are favorable, just doing the following:

                          water pump, t stat, ya know..
                          HG and all gaskets and seals
                          new chain tensioners and guides
                          head tanked and skimmed
                          lapping the valves and seats
                          replacing the valve guides and seals
                          making an informed guess of the main/rod bearings

                          then throwing it in and seeing what OBD2 says!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ^ right on. I'm planning on doing the same, except I'm going to leave the bottom end alone for the time being. Other than cleaning some carbon off the top of the pistons. Going to drop the head off at a machine shop tomorrow.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I ordered all new guide rails, tensioners, although from the looks of it only the primary tensioner seems in obvious need of replacement. Oh well.

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