Question regarding VSS to 413 DME

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  • woc
    replied
    Jon! I guess I'm stealing this thread, but still in the topic. So today I decided to eliminate the damn rev cut-off, so I spliced the brown red wire from yellow connect behind the cluster and ran it behind the dash to under the glove compartment directly into pin 42 (black/white) wire in the dme connector harness. I believe the problem is gone, drove the car for a lil while with no problem, but I still have CEL for #26 faulty dme battery voltage, #78 coolant temp sensor, and O2 sensor heater relay (clicks at times) and I still have no RPM.

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  • lumbergh17
    replied
    Originally posted by 5mall5nail5
    Cam signal? That seems odd - the cam signal will follow the engine RPM (1/2 of RPM of engine) and not road speed at all. I think that would work in providing something to the ECU but the speed would be all wrong, obviously.

    Right, I messaged Mike but he hasn't gotten back to me. In fact this is about the only thread I've found talking about it. See post #2. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1747260

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  • 5mall5nail5
    replied
    1234 shows up as a speedometer input signal issue

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  • frankie591
    replied
    Any info on whether stomp test code 1234 means the vss signal isn't getting to the ecu? I have no soft rev limit, car pulls hard all the way to 7k, also the tach, econometer and obc all work as they should.

    Any help is appreciated!

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  • 5mall5nail5
    replied
    Originally posted by lumbergh17
    Jon, I have also heard of people using the cam signal. Such as cars not running the stock cluster. Does anyone have any form to test the signal coming and compare them? That might save some hassle too.
    Cam signal? That seems odd - the cam signal will follow the engine RPM (1/2 of RPM of engine) and not road speed at all. I think that would work in providing something to the ECU but the speed would be all wrong, obviously.

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  • lumbergh17
    replied
    Jon, I have also heard of people using the cam signal. Such as cars not running the stock cluster. Does anyone have any form to test the signal coming and compare them? That might save some hassle too.

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  • 5mall5nail5
    replied
    Originally posted by woc
    Going through the same problem right now. Dude, you think you could pic document the process?
    Crap - already buttoned it up.

    I am replacing the cluster bulbs when I get them in, so I will have it back out I will shoot some pics.

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  • woc
    replied
    Going through the same problem right now. Dude, you think you could pic document the process?

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  • 5mall5nail5
    replied
    Pulled the wheel - pin 26 on yellow connector is brown/red. I'll cut and splice a new wire and just drop it over to the glovebox and tie it in at the ECU vs taking it out to the X20 or anything silly like that.

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  • FredK
    replied
    You don't NEED to take the wheel off to get the cluster out, but it makes things easier, especially if you're going to tap C3.

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  • frankie591
    replied
    Originally posted by 5mall5nail5
    Will do tonight - does the wheel need to come off to get the cluster out?
    yup. big nut in the center to take the wheel off, then like 6 philips screws to get the trim and cluster off.

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  • 5mall5nail5
    replied
    Originally posted by frankie591
    pull the cluster and see if there is a brown/red wire going to one of the corners of your yellow cluster plug. If so, thats pin 26.
    Will do tonight - does the wheel need to come off to get the cluster out?

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  • frankie591
    replied
    pull the cluster and see if there is a brown/red wire going to one of the corners of your yellow cluster plug. If so, thats pin 26.

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  • 5mall5nail5
    replied
    Originally posted by frankie591
    c104 is a 3 wire black plug that should be up behind the glovebox. C3 is the big yellow plug that goes in the back of the cluster. Pin 26 on the c3 connector should be brown w/ red stripe as I recall and will be in one of the corners of the plug.

    Sorry for the thread-jack :p
    No prob - its just confusing. I do standalone stuff so it's a LOT easier for me. I forget what connector is what.

    C104 on my car doesn't have anything VSS related I do not believe. Tach, yes. I think. But not VSS.

    So does every car have C3 pin 26? I'd rather tap to that. I don't want to go all the way from C3 pin 26 to X20 pin 14 because I'd be running wire down the harness just to go back to the ECU. I'd rather T C3 Pin 26 and bring it to Pin 42 on the DME...

    Will that work for my '87 325e?

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  • frankie591
    replied
    Originally posted by 5mall5nail5
    I don't have a C3 pin 26? Which is pin C104, again?
    c104 is a 3 wire black plug that should be up behind the glovebox. C3 is the big yellow plug that goes in the back of the cluster. Pin 26 on the c3 connector should be brown w/ red stripe as I recall and will be in one of the corners of the plug.

    Sorry for the thread-jack :p

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