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    Help identifying a couple of engine components?



    What is #1?
    And is number 2 the cam sensor? I'm talking about the sensor in the head behind the vanos thingy. Thanks.
    ______________________
    ex-Chief Operating Officer
    Blunt Tech Industries
    West Coast and Pacific Rim

    #2
    Originally posted by hugh jass
    What is #1?
    And is number 2 the cam sensor? I'm talking about the sensor in the head behind the vanos thingy. Thanks.
    looks like your planning on the obd1 conversion.....looks like a 3.2l.

    number 1 is obd2 crank postion sensor. not needed for obd1 conversion. use the other obd1 crank position sensor in front of the engine (your other post.)

    number 2 is the cam position sensor.

    how do you plan on getting the temp gauge to work? just curious. personally havent found a good way short of tapping the head.

    you better take that oil filter housing off.....im afraid your going to have to mail it to me. j/k did you buy "the kit" or are you making your own cooling system?

    cheers, jason
    Last edited by Jason89i; 01-22-2006, 06:37 PM.

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      #3
      thanks for the answers.
      yep, its a 55,000 mile 98 s52 out of a rolled m3.
      lol, that was a pricy little part. i had a professional at a local shop drill and tap for the vanos line. i wasn't about to try it myself on a $350 chunk of aluminum!
      check out this link for the temp gauge. he has a really nice solution.



      i'm making my own oil cooling system. i got the Turner AN fitting adapter for the 2 ports, and i'm going to run a 20 row earls oil cooler and fab up a couple of mounts. its a lot cheaper than buying one of the kits.
      ______________________
      ex-Chief Operating Officer
      Blunt Tech Industries
      West Coast and Pacific Rim

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by hugh jass
        check out this link for the temp gauge. he has a really nice solution.


        .
        sorry, but that splicing the wires for the dual temp sensor will not work.



        just tryiing to figure out the best way without tapping head.

        cheers, jason

        Comment


          #5
          crap. back to the drawing board i guess. i hope there is an easier way then tapping the head.
          ______________________
          ex-Chief Operating Officer
          Blunt Tech Industries
          West Coast and Pacific Rim

          Comment


            #6
            would tapping the head really be that big of a deal, wouldnt a machine shop do it for a pretty small fee? drilling big holes in a expensive head is scary but i might be leaning toward tapping when i convert a s52
            https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-h...wE3UqwjjmaTrXg

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by rede30
              would tapping the head really be that big of a deal, wouldnt a machine shop do it for a pretty small fee?
              a machine shop certainly would do it.....if the head was off the block. otherwise, i would be concerned with metal shaving floating around the water passages.

              cheers, jason

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Jason89i
                sorry, but that splicing the wires for the dual temp sensor will not work.



                just tryiing to figure out the best way without tapping head.

                cheers, jason
                That was on a m3 though, if that matters. Doubtful it works either way though. Im in the midst of working something up without tapping. Just gonna be a while until I get the car out of storage
                Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by rede30
                  would tapping the head really be that big of a deal, wouldnt a machine shop do it for a pretty small fee? drilling big holes in a expensive head is scary but i might be leaning toward tapping when i convert a s52
                  Well that would either A require you to pull the head off, or B bring the whole engine to them. Either way its going to be a lot of money for you, or a lot of time to get it done and put back together right. Might as well do a headgasket too then and ARP studs
                  Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Jason89i
                    a machine shop certainly would do it.....if the head was off the block. otherwise, i would be concerned with metal shaving floating around the water passages.

                    cheers, jason
                    Jon at THR told me dont even worry about metal shavings, it wont do anything.

                    Still would make me uncomfortable. I would rather just take the head off and do it the right way once.
                    Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you are talking about the wire where the arrow points to that is for the VANOS unit. The sensor underneath the cylindrical piece that plugs into the head is the camshaft sensor.
                      253rwhp

                      My Vids(OLD)
                      http://www.youtube.com/user/aeryk7#p/a/u/0/hS4ZAzSdUdY
                      http://www.youtube.com/user/aeryk7#p/u/2/C-0hnV2k_xU

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                        #12
                        Im diggin the salvage yard numbers :) lol

                        I still have an "a+" written on my intake manifold, I cant get that shit off
                        Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

                        Comment


                          #13
                          yeah, that shit is like nail polish. i'm going to have to try various paint removers to get it off.
                          ______________________
                          ex-Chief Operating Officer
                          Blunt Tech Industries
                          West Coast and Pacific Rim

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