Hey guys, I completed an S50 swap with ZF trans and oem sachs clutch kit over a year ago. Drove the car around for quite a while until my wife drove it through a field and drug the exhaust out from under it. Then continued to drive thus bending the shit out of the exhaust.
While waiting for funds to build a new exhaust (didn't like the original) I pulled the motor to reseal the oil pan and rear main. In a vicodin induced haze one night (just had some wisdom teeth pulled) I decided to put the trans back on. In my amazing wisdom I put the friction disc on backwards. Put everything back together and bam, clutch wouldn't work. Tried to pull the trans back off and it was majorly seized. Pulled motor and had to cut the bell housing to unbolt the clutch. The friction disc was seized on. So with a new transmission and new friction disc I put everything back together.
Now the clutch doesn't completely disengage. I've replaced almost everything. All the hydraulics are brand new including a ss clutch line. New friction disc and pressure plate. I've had two mechanics try to solve the issue, neither were able to. Here's the things I've done below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Btw this transmission has worked on this motor just fine in the past. I had replaced it due to bad shift detents early on in the swap, fixed those and am now using it again. Below are the things I've checked.
T/O bearing and pilot bearing both work fine and move smoothly. T/O is correctly oriented. Replaced an already new pressure plate and friction disc. Custom threaded an adjustable pivot pin and maxed it out. (added a little over 1/4") This moved the engagement feel of the pedal way up higher, but even bottomed out won't disengage. Alignment dowels are on the engine block.
The only things not new are the dual mass flywheel and the transmission. All other parts are oem and have been replaced. The car can be driven if you start it in gear, it even shifts relatively easily while driving, but you cannot put it in gear while at idle.
Whew long story but there it is. Please don't post anything about bleeding the clutch or if the T/O bearing is turned 90. Both are correct. It's been bled every way from Sunday by me and others. Hydraulics feel normal when the clutch is depressed. At this point I'm considering a new flywheel and or transmission as these are the only things that haven't been replaced.
Thanks for the help r3v!
While waiting for funds to build a new exhaust (didn't like the original) I pulled the motor to reseal the oil pan and rear main. In a vicodin induced haze one night (just had some wisdom teeth pulled) I decided to put the trans back on. In my amazing wisdom I put the friction disc on backwards. Put everything back together and bam, clutch wouldn't work. Tried to pull the trans back off and it was majorly seized. Pulled motor and had to cut the bell housing to unbolt the clutch. The friction disc was seized on. So with a new transmission and new friction disc I put everything back together.
Now the clutch doesn't completely disengage. I've replaced almost everything. All the hydraulics are brand new including a ss clutch line. New friction disc and pressure plate. I've had two mechanics try to solve the issue, neither were able to. Here's the things I've done below. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Btw this transmission has worked on this motor just fine in the past. I had replaced it due to bad shift detents early on in the swap, fixed those and am now using it again. Below are the things I've checked.
T/O bearing and pilot bearing both work fine and move smoothly. T/O is correctly oriented. Replaced an already new pressure plate and friction disc. Custom threaded an adjustable pivot pin and maxed it out. (added a little over 1/4") This moved the engagement feel of the pedal way up higher, but even bottomed out won't disengage. Alignment dowels are on the engine block.
The only things not new are the dual mass flywheel and the transmission. All other parts are oem and have been replaced. The car can be driven if you start it in gear, it even shifts relatively easily while driving, but you cannot put it in gear while at idle.
Whew long story but there it is. Please don't post anything about bleeding the clutch or if the T/O bearing is turned 90. Both are correct. It's been bled every way from Sunday by me and others. Hydraulics feel normal when the clutch is depressed. At this point I'm considering a new flywheel and or transmission as these are the only things that haven't been replaced.
Thanks for the help r3v!
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