EDIT: So when I go to start my car some times I can hear the fuel pump turn on for a few seconds and turn off then I can fire my car up no problem. Sometimes I turn my key to on and the fuel pump does nothing and my car starts up, but sometimes when the pump does nothing the car will just crank and never fire up. And the starngest of all sometimes the fuel pump clicks on when I turn my key to on and just keeps going and I never hear it click off and when trying to start my car it will sometimes cough but never fire up. I am at a loss about what could be causing this and would love some help. I have been thinking either the fuel pressure regulator is going bad or the fuel pump is going bad.
UPDATE 7/29/2013: So today I talked to Dave who told me I needed to make sure my rear o2 wires i clipped wire taped up well, and that I should have a Check Engine Light always showing before start up and pulled the cluster to find the bulb was in the wrong location, so now I have the CEL. So I pulled the intake to do so. After doing that and reinstalling everything and hooking up my power and ground for the engine harness again, making sure they were both good I proceeded to start my car 7 times in a row with no issues letting it idle for a few seconds and rest between start ups. Then a half hour later I started it up 2 more times. I then plumbed my charcoal canister in. I did so by running the car vent hose to the center nipple on the e30 canister, then the side nipple to the s52 purge valve with a plug on top of it. I plugged the hose into the side nipple on the valve. Then from the bottom nipple of the s52 purge valve I ran a hose to the intake manifold. After that I started my car another 2 times. All these start ups though while running the CEL remains on.
UPDATE 7/31/2013: I am getting fault codes P1519 and P0340. P0340 is camshaft sensor, P1519 is currently unclear. I ordered a Camshaft Sensor, will be here tomorrow.
Hello r3v,
I have been working on my s52 swap for awhile now and it is finally up and driving around. Just about to log 100 miles on it by tomorrow evening.
Well there are some issues I am hoping to fix by this next Sunday because I am going on the Mt. Baker drive.
Problems:
1. When the car is running, at an idle or while driving there is a ticking noise coming from what I believe to be the injectors, but could maybe be lifters. I want to get rid of this noise. Any suggestions?
2. I had to reset my oil change lights by grounding Pin 7 for 9 seconds, this also turned off the orange inspection light. The inspection light has now come back on.. how come?
3. I have been having a slight over heating problems, at first I thought it was because the system wasn't bled but after bleeding it fully I still creep up to 3/4 on the temp gauge. Then my fan turns on, and it cools back down to 1/2.. is this normal?
Fan wired like such.. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=210783
Same thermostat and fan two prong switch.
4. This morning I went to start my car and it would not fire up, just crank over. I tried two or three times and decided to take my pick up for the time being. Came home an hour later, walked to the car and popped the hood. Then leaned in the window and turned the key and it fired right up.
Why would this be?
Thats all currently! Thanks for any help. Here are a few photos to enjoy.

UPDATE 7/29/2013: So today I talked to Dave who told me I needed to make sure my rear o2 wires i clipped wire taped up well, and that I should have a Check Engine Light always showing before start up and pulled the cluster to find the bulb was in the wrong location, so now I have the CEL. So I pulled the intake to do so. After doing that and reinstalling everything and hooking up my power and ground for the engine harness again, making sure they were both good I proceeded to start my car 7 times in a row with no issues letting it idle for a few seconds and rest between start ups. Then a half hour later I started it up 2 more times. I then plumbed my charcoal canister in. I did so by running the car vent hose to the center nipple on the e30 canister, then the side nipple to the s52 purge valve with a plug on top of it. I plugged the hose into the side nipple on the valve. Then from the bottom nipple of the s52 purge valve I ran a hose to the intake manifold. After that I started my car another 2 times. All these start ups though while running the CEL remains on.
UPDATE 7/31/2013: I am getting fault codes P1519 and P0340. P0340 is camshaft sensor, P1519 is currently unclear. I ordered a Camshaft Sensor, will be here tomorrow.
Hello r3v,
I have been working on my s52 swap for awhile now and it is finally up and driving around. Just about to log 100 miles on it by tomorrow evening.
Well there are some issues I am hoping to fix by this next Sunday because I am going on the Mt. Baker drive.
Problems:
1. When the car is running, at an idle or while driving there is a ticking noise coming from what I believe to be the injectors, but could maybe be lifters. I want to get rid of this noise. Any suggestions?
2. I had to reset my oil change lights by grounding Pin 7 for 9 seconds, this also turned off the orange inspection light. The inspection light has now come back on.. how come?
3. I have been having a slight over heating problems, at first I thought it was because the system wasn't bled but after bleeding it fully I still creep up to 3/4 on the temp gauge. Then my fan turns on, and it cools back down to 1/2.. is this normal?
Fan wired like such.. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=210783
Same thermostat and fan two prong switch.
4. This morning I went to start my car and it would not fire up, just crank over. I tried two or three times and decided to take my pick up for the time being. Came home an hour later, walked to the car and popped the hood. Then leaned in the window and turned the key and it fired right up.
Why would this be?
Thats all currently! Thanks for any help. Here are a few photos to enjoy.




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