24V OBD1 E30, overheating.

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  • ArtClassShank
    Advanced Member
    • Jul 2013
    • 143

    #1

    24V OBD1 E30, overheating.

    Hey all, I just purchased a 1989 325is with an M52B28 from a 98 328i. It also has a ZF320 from an E36.

    Really loving it so far, very quick, fun to drive, and its in great condition.

    But I do have a bit of an overheating problem.

    The car has no clutch fan, only an oem pusher in front of the condenser/radiator. It's 14 inches in size, and obviously doesn't flow enough to cool the motor. It has the fan delete "supporting" mods, new hoses, new water pump, new lower temperature thermostat. On top of that, its got a Mishimoto Aluminum radiator in E36 fitment.

    With all of that, I'm still overheating in stop and go traffic. The car will stick to right under 1/2 on the temp gauge while moving, but any prolonged sitting in traffic it will slowly climb to 3/4 and beyond. It'll heat up a lot quicker with the A/C going obviously. Also I've never noticed the Aux fan kick on without the A/C button pressed. I was under the impression it's supposed to kick on when coolant temperatures get too high. Anything I should be looking for to fix that? The fan operates fine with A/C pressed, but only on low setting. I've checked fuses #3 and #18, they look fine.

    I also have a leaking radiator, which could be the root of all my problems. It's a small leak above the drain plug, where the endtanks are welded to the core. It leaks roughly a gallon of coolant every 3 weeks. I'm in the process of getting a new radiator through warranty. Would a small radiator leak compromise the efficiency of the cooling system that much?

    Another interesting issue is my lower radiator hose, which is very gummy/soft and gooey almost. I'll be replacing that along with the radiator.


    My current plan is replace the radiator, and add a 16in 3000CFM pusher in front. Hoping that solves my cooling, but I'm still worried it'll be all for naught.

    Thanks
    Jack

    TLDR: Car overheats in stop and go, Small radiator leak, aux fan only comes on with A/C.
    1989 Carbon Black 328is
  • 36brua
    Mod Crazy
    • Feb 2008
    • 689

    #2
    Originally posted by ArtClassShank
    Hey all, I just purchased a 1989 325is with an M52B28 from a 98 328i. It also has a ZF320 from an E36.

    Really loving it so far, very quick, fun to drive, and its in great condition.

    But I do have a bit of an overheating problem.

    The car has no clutch fan, only an oem pusher in front of the condenser/radiator. It's 14 inches in size, and obviously doesn't flow enough to cool the motor. It has the fan delete "supporting" mods, new hoses, new water pump, new lower temperature thermostat. On top of that, its got a Mishimoto Aluminum radiator in E36 fitment.

    With all of that, I'm still overheating in stop and go traffic. The car will stick to right under 1/2 on the temp gauge while moving, but any prolonged sitting in traffic it will slowly climb to 3/4 and beyond. It'll heat up a lot quicker with the A/C going obviously. Also I've never noticed the Aux fan kick on without the A/C button pressed. I was under the impression it's supposed to kick on when coolant temperatures get too high. Anything I should be looking for to fix that? The fan operates fine with A/C pressed, but only on low setting. I've checked fuses #3 and #18, they look fine.

    I also have a leaking radiator, which could be the root of all my problems. It's a small leak above the drain plug, where the endtanks are welded to the core. It leaks roughly a gallon of coolant every 3 weeks. I'm in the process of getting a new radiator through warranty. Would a small radiator leak compromise the efficiency of the cooling system that much?

    Another interesting issue is my lower radiator hose, which is very gummy/soft and gooey almost. I'll be replacing that along with the radiator.


    My current plan is replace the radiator, and add a 16in 3000CFM pusher in front. Hoping that solves my cooling, but I'm still worried it'll be all for naught.

    Thanks
    Jack

    TLDR: Car overheats in stop and go, Small radiator leak, aux fan only comes on with A/C.
    Start with this for elec fan install
    My CA legal M60 swap

    The happening in our garage

    Comment

    • Boise
      Wrencher
      • Dec 2011
      • 212

      #3
      I think you figured out the problem you are having. In stop and go traffic you have no air going over your radiator, so you are overheating. Your coolant temp sensor could be bad and therefor your auxiliary fan is not kicking in at all (unless you press the AC button). I wired in a SPAL fan on my swap and it does a wonderful job of keeping the engine cool in our 90-100* summers, and I think mine fan is only 1600 CFM.

      Here is your solution:


      EDIT: Crap, 36brua beat me to it.

      Comment

      • ArtClassShank
        Advanced Member
        • Jul 2013
        • 143

        #4
        Thanks guys. Hopefully it does solve my problem.

        I found this fan recommended in another thread, seems like overkill, but I want to cool this shit.



        I would go for a puller too, but I don't think there is enough room.


        Also I've noticed some brownish sludge stuff near my oil cap. Is this normal? Found a few other threads about E46 people having similar buildup. Any other 24V people with this issue?

        Also, the author of that thread works at the shop where my car was swapped, so maybe I'll PM him.
        1989 Carbon Black 328is

        Comment

        • Boise
          Wrencher
          • Dec 2011
          • 212

          #5
          Originally posted by ArtClassShank
          Also I've noticed some brownish sludge stuff near my oil cap. Is this normal? Found a few other threads about E46 people having similar buildup. Any other 24V people with this issue?
          What oil are you using?

          Also about your fan, I would be skeptical of manufacturer's claims on CFMs. I would go with a trusted brand like SPAL. Also you need to make sure that the dimensions are small enough that it will actually fit between the AC condenser and the bumper.

          Comment

          • ArtClassShank
            Advanced Member
            • Jul 2013
            • 143

            #6
            Originally posted by Boise
            What oil are you using?

            Also about your fan, I would be skeptical of manufacturer's claims on CFMs. I would go with a trusted brand like SPAL. Also you need to make sure that the dimensions are small enough that it will actually fit between the AC condenser and the bumper.
            Mobil 1, changed about 1500 miles ago.

            I got that fan from this thread.



            Should fit without issue. I've heard Spals are alright, but it looks decent.

            I'm pretty sure my stock Aux fan is wired up exactly like that DIY thread, which is weird because he claims an OEM fan is sufficient as long as its wired to come on earlier, which mine doesn't.

            Back under the hood to check.....
            1989 Carbon Black 328is

            Comment

            • DesertBMW
              E30 Enthusiast
              • Aug 2011
              • 1018

              #7
              The car has no clutch fan, only an oem pusher in front of the condenser/radiator. It's 14 inches in size, and obviously doesn't flow enough to cool the motor.
              That's your problem, these engines can't take too much of overheating, they tend to develop a crack around cylinder head water ports.

              Comment

              • ArtClassShank
                Advanced Member
                • Jul 2013
                • 143

                #8
                Could a bad fan switch be my problem? Everything is wired just like that DIY posted earlier, but my fan never kicks on unless I hit the snowflake.

                Pretty cheap thing to replace, might order that.
                1989 Carbon Black 328is

                Comment

                • 7pilot
                  E30 Addict
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 475

                  #9
                  1,The sealed cooling system is pressurized.
                  2,The pressure raises the boiling point of coolant.
                  3,Your radiator leak = No pressure
                  4, Ergo boiling coolant + air = Overheating.

                  m

                  Comment

                  • Bimmian89
                    Advanced Member
                    • May 2012
                    • 170

                    #10
                    Get a mishimoto radiator with a Spal 16" slim pusher fan, along with the low temp thermostat. This is what I have and my car runs about 135-145 degrees.

                    Click image for larger version

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                    This is after about 50 miles
                    sigpic

                    Check out my build thread!! :p

                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=288383

                    Comment

                    • ArtClassShank
                      Advanced Member
                      • Jul 2013
                      • 143

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Bimmian89
                      Get a mishimoto radiator with a Spal 16" slim pusher fan, along with the low temp thermostat. This is what I have and my car runs about 135-145 degrees.



                      This is after about 50 miles

                      I have a Mishimoto radiator, and its leaking. A 16 inch puller wouldn't fit.

                      Also a car running that cool isn't really optimal.
                      1989 Carbon Black 328is

                      Comment

                      • amcink
                        Mod Crazy
                        • Jan 2012
                        • 788

                        #12
                        Originally posted by ArtClassShank
                        I have a Mishimoto radiator, and its leaking. A 16 inch puller wouldn't fit.

                        Also a car running that cool isn't really optimal.
                        That is too cool in my opinion, also

                        Comment

                        • ArtClassShank
                          Advanced Member
                          • Jul 2013
                          • 143

                          #13
                          Well I swapped out my lo speed fuse with a 30AMP rated fuse. Rigged up a jumper wire between BLK/GREEN and Brown/BLK. Runs on high all the time through the ignition. Hopefully this will keep me cool under temps start getting lower.

                          Anyone know what stock 14 inch pushers are rated at? I think mines original, so I'm guessing its lower then it was in 89.
                          1989 Carbon Black 328is

                          Comment

                          • Wanganstyle
                            R3VLimited
                            • Apr 2010
                            • 2828

                            #14
                            Originally posted by ArtClassShank
                            Thanks guys. Hopefully it does solve my problem.

                            I found this fan recommended in another thread, seems like overkill, but I want to cool this shit.



                            I would go for a puller too, but I don't think there is enough room.


                            Also I've noticed some brownish sludge stuff near my oil cap. Is this normal? Found a few other threads about E46 people having similar buildup. Any other 24V people with this issue?

                            Also, the author of that thread works at the shop where my car was swapped, so maybe I'll PM him.
                            Radiators need to maintain water capacity to function; if it does not maintain the water level and pressure than it cannot function as intended

                            The pressure cap does this function
                            Normally; regulate the pressure inside the radiator to control boiling point of the fluid.

                            Just like a pressure cooker allows a chef to produce food in a shorter time the pressure of the radiator allows cooling of a specific setting


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
                            OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                            Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                            Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

                            Comment

                            • ArtClassShank
                              Advanced Member
                              • Jul 2013
                              • 143

                              #15
                              Instead of making a new post, I figured I'd just piggyback this one.

                              I've got a strange belt noise coming from my engine bay. Mainly there when belts are cold, kinda an annoying scratchy sound.




                              First time I've diagnosed belt squeaks, anyone got any ideas?

                              Thanks
                              1989 Carbon Black 328is

                              Comment

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