Brake booster troubles

[Poeman446]

Apparently I need someone to explain the brake booster relocation like I am a five year old. I got the holes drilled .5" towards the drivers side, fit the booster in, and got the pedals in. The brake pedal linkage hooked up as it normally would, but the clutch master has clearance issues. When I put the clutch master cylinder through the firewall, it hits the brake booster. Some said that they had to cut off one of the studs on the booster, but I haven't had to do that, and it fit in very well.

Did I drill my holes too far to the right? I measured 1/2" over from the edge of the first hole to the center of the other, as that's how I assumed it would be measured.

Do I need to mount the pedals back in the factory holes, and shift my brake linkage between the pedal and the factory mounting tab?

I feel like an idiot because I can't drill holes and mount a brake booster and pedal box.

Thanks.

[Poeman446]

Update: I got it in, but it's wrong. I trimmed the pedal assembly, and ended up only getting two nuts on the booster, and the two in the body on the inside on top that hold the pedal assembly. I made a Clevis from some scrap steel and it works pretty well. It will work, but I don't think you all who have done this needed to trim the pedal assembly. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[haggardfab]

Just go to a junkyard and get a booster and master cyl from a an audi a4 2000 body style (b5) its a direct bolt in and clears the intakes by a ton..

[Poeman446]

How does it feel? I think my stock setup will work as it is. I was converting from auto to manual with this swap as well, so i see that i was supposed to leave the pedals bolted in while cutting the firewall. Anyway... If this doesn't work very well, I'm going to go with the Auto Master cylinder. Thanks man.