Fender's M52 E30 Build

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Trust me and just have Markert (328iJunkie) do the wiring for you. I have an 84 318 with and M52 motor with S52 cams. Lots of odd little weird quirks, that makes it worth it to just pay and not worry.

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    Originally posted by E30Runt
    I'm currently in the midst of my swap too. M52 + ZF into '84 318i. Been testing fitting driveshafts and found a E36 328i works best. Center support bearing will need to be switched out or you will need to thread the outer holes to get it to bolt up.
    What are you doing for wiring? It seems the older cars aren't swapped as often as the newer ones.

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    S50 cams and trays installed, timing set (hopefully right) oil pan and valve cover installed. Getting closer!

    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

    Drilling oil pump nut

    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

    Wire tied

    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

    Powder coated oil pan and valve cover

    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

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  • E30Runt
    replied
    I'm currently in the midst of my swap too. M52 + ZF into '84 318i. Been testing fitting driveshafts and found a E36 328i works best. Center support bearing will need to be switched out or you will need to thread the outer holes to get it to bolt up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    No idea on the driveshaft yet.

    Updates:

    Cams removed from M52, and S50 cams removed from M50. The M52 is dirty, really dirty and sludgey. You can see the difference between my old M50 and this M52.

    I also cleaned up a spare timing cover to install, and picked up my powdercoated valve cover, thermostat cover, oil pan, and oil filter housing. I was thinking of doing the timing cover but nah, won't see it.

    Can I swap my M50 cam trays into the M52? I already have them resting in place, and everything looks good. I'd much rather use them because they are clean and I know they were taken care of (by me).


    I have a big order from ECS coming in that should allow me to get the engine buttoned up. I should have more done tomorrow.

















    You can see how much cleaner my M50 head is, as well as the cams and trays.









    1 or 2 broken guides on the M52.







    Too bad I ordered an M52 valve cover set before I decided to switch.

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    ZF showed up!

    Going to freshen it up with all new seals, clean it, and drift pin sets.


    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    Got some bad news, I took the valve cover off and oil pan off today. I found broken timing chain tensioner pieces in the oil pan, and pulled out the broken piece from the timing chain area. Thoughts? Engine made no noises when it was running in the 328.



    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr



    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr



    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    Alright, so I received my TRM kit.


    So, how does everything get hooked up and mounted? Is my ICV right?


    Should I trash everything left on the OBDII manifold? And lastly, what did I hear about the IAT sensor? Where does it go?



    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr



    Untitled by fender13bender, on Flickr

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    if you went that route with the m50 manifold conversion just run the regular e34 m50 dipstick
    Thanks!

    Originally posted by George77
    If you want to stay N/A I would swap some m50b25 vanos pistons and bring the C/R little over 11/1 and I think they are also lighter.

    Nah I'm not tearing into the engine, just new gaskets.

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  • George77
    replied
    If you want to stay N/A I would swap some m50b25 vanos pistons and bring the C/R little over 11/1 and I think they are also lighter.

    Leave a comment:


  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    if you went that route with the m50 manifold conversion just run the regular e34 m50 dipstick

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  • Fender13Bender
    replied
    Originally posted by techno550
    http://www.trmtuning.com/?product=tr...conversion-kit

    You won't need any other stuff than the kit for the swap. You want to delete the Cyclone Separator since you won't have an OBD2 dipstick on the E34 oil pan.


    All of that stuff that isn't there on a swap gets turned off with:
    http://www.trmtuning.com/?product=trm-ms41-swap-tune

    Sweet, just ordered the M52 elbow and your manifold swap.


    So what do I do with the dipstick now?

    Leave a comment:


  • techno550
    replied
    Originally posted by poopin04
    Hate to hijack someones build thread with my questions, but is there a write-up for the setup below? I'm doing an M52b28 swap into my 86 ETA and I love to read more about this.
    Which part specifically? or start another thread and I'll chime in there. :)

    Leave a comment:


  • poopin04
    replied
    Hate to hijack someones build thread with my questions, but is there a write-up for the setup below? I'm doing an M52b28 swap into my 86 ETA and I love to read more about this.

    Originally posted by techno550
    To properly modify the dipstick to add the drain, you need to add an outer shroud. It can be done, but its difficult. Probably easier to cut the bottom off the obd2 dipstick and weld it to the obd1 top, and then drill the pan to accept it.

    That said, why bother? And running the crankcase back into the intake is not needed.
    Use an obd2 throttle body boot:


    Run from the crankcase vent on the valve cover to a catch can:



    and either vent that to atmosphere, or use the exhaust to pull vacuum on it with:
    http://www.trmtuning.com/?product=tr...evacuation-kit

    Leave a comment:


  • techno550
    replied
    Originally posted by 328ijunkie
    Its best to keep the cyclone seperator and modify the dipstick to add the drain. It will keep oil consumption down and oil out of the intake manifold....
    To properly modify the dipstick to add the drain, you need to add an outer shroud. It can be done, but its difficult. Probably easier to cut the bottom off the obd2 dipstick and weld it to the obd1 top, and then drill the pan to accept it.

    That said, why bother? And running the crankcase back into the intake is not needed.
    Use an obd2 throttle body boot:


    Run from the crankcase vent on the valve cover to a catch can:



    and either vent that to atmosphere, or use the exhaust to pull vacuum on it with:
    Excellent way to pull vacuum on the crankcase without contaminating the intake pipes with oil. Ties into the exhaust. Kit includes the weld-in nipple, threaded check valve, and hose clamp.

    Leave a comment:

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