Melted Fusible Link - Now No Power

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  • low_&_loud
    Member
    • Dec 2012
    • 65

    #1

    Melted Fusible Link - Now No Power

    I was putting a rear seat in my car and tightening down the rear seatbelt bolt near the battery cable coming from the trunk and the washer on the bolt nicked thru the jacketing - this in turn shorted the cable out and melted the fusible link in half between the bolt and the battery before I could disconnect it. It seemed like no damage was done "downstream" past the short so I thought nothing of just getting a new cable which I ran today and hooked up with the battery (aside from the subsequent small trunk fire and near heart attack when it shorted).

    When I got it all hooked back up today, I turned the key everything seemed fine (though my cluster doesnt currently work) the check engine light came on as usual when the key was turned, then I cranked it and it turned a couple times, then everything went dark. Now Ive got nothing and no combination of cleaning terminals or playing around with either end of the cable that I replaced has given me anything.

    Any ideas? Is there something that could have gotten fried I should check on? I put this in this subforum since its on my M52 swapped car on which the harness was spliced (no adapter used) just in case it matters...I looked around and didnt see anything obvious yet. Just seems weird since it was "OK" enough to crank a couple times then lights out...
    sigpic
    '89 Delphin/Cardinal OBD1 M52 325i
    '87 Schwarz/Cardinal 325is - SOLD

    IG: @steezmode
  • mpowerful
    E30 Fanatic
    • Jul 2013
    • 1273

    #2
    Are you getting 12v up to the distro block on the firewall? Checked grounds?

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    • low_&_loud
      Member
      • Dec 2012
      • 65

      #3
      Well I figured out why I have no power but it doesnt help me a ton - I cut the shrinkwrap off the fusible link on the new cable and sure enough its blown. No idea why but this sucks. I read it is 50A - Can I just cut the cable and install a fuse holder here to debug this? Not sure why now all of a sudden Im blowing links it was fine before I shorted the cable...what would cause this?
      sigpic
      '89 Delphin/Cardinal OBD1 M52 325i
      '87 Schwarz/Cardinal 325is - SOLD

      IG: @steezmode

      Comment

      • jizo
        E30 Enthusiast
        • Apr 2010
        • 1191

        #4
        you can still order the through the dealer. but yes you could mickey mouse a fuse just to get you back.

        Comment

        • 36brua
          Mod Crazy
          • Feb 2008
          • 689

          #5
          maybe consider this. deletes fusible link replaces with a lug type
          FUSIBLE LINK REPLACEMENT j levie
          When I encounter a bad fusible link I replace it with a 60a lug type fuse. Use of a lug type allows the fuse to be mounted on the power point in the engine bay where the small lead from the battery attaches. Then I splice out the fusible link.
          My CA legal M60 swap

          The happening in our garage

          Comment

          • camshaftgsxr
            E30 Addict
            • Aug 2011
            • 416

            #6
            its possible to relocate the powered cable from the fusible link cable to the battery cable on the distribution block. although I would make it a permanent fix, I have done it on my car temporarily.
            BroWorks.com Bro is a lifestyle

            Comment

            • low_&_loud
              Member
              • Dec 2012
              • 65

              #7
              Update, since I hate useless threads with no conclusion...

              What happened was the guy I bought this car from who swapped this car was not an electrical whiz and wired EVERYTHING (starter, alternator, all + leads) to the fusible link post on the distribution block. I have no idea how this didnt blow before but the car always cranked slowly when starting and I thought the starter was on its way out (still sorting this car out, glad this happened in my driveway and not driving down the highway or something). Anyway I wasnt really thinking when I reassembled it after installing my new cable and it obviously blew the link immediately from the cranking amperage when I tried to start it. Lucky this never fried the DME or anything by some evil twist of fate.

              I spliced in a 50A glass stereo fuse (rating per this thread: http://spece30.com/forum/41-electric...k-near-battery), and put the wires back as they should be per some searching (starter should be hooked to large cable, all else on fusible link - anyone care to confirm?). Seems like the idea is to isolate the DME and fuel pump relays from the huge starter motor draw during cranking so theres no interruption, but I have 2 other reasonably thick + leads (that Im not sure what they connect to) which could go on the non-fused lead, or not and leave them on the fusible link...not sure. Thanks for the input all - and yes if you want it to be oem/perfect you can splice in a new link, but for the $10 I spent on a fuse holder and replaceable glass fuses I think youre kind of crazy not to go that route!
              Last edited by low_&_loud; 06-11-2014, 06:35 AM.
              sigpic
              '89 Delphin/Cardinal OBD1 M52 325i
              '87 Schwarz/Cardinal 325is - SOLD

              IG: @steezmode

              Comment

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