m50 swap not firing

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  • erb326
    replied
    Finally got fed up and ripped out everything related to the auto harness from the x20 looking connection all the way to the computer (which I didnt have). Cranked the engine, took about 20 second before it kicked and ran. Only problem is the revs were running away, youd start the engine and it would shoot to the redline. Turns out the throttle linkage was screwed in all the way making the throttle plate like 1/3 open. Fixed the plate to be where it should, cranks and idles great now. Thanks for everyones help!

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  • e30rapidic
    replied
    swap where the cam sensor and crank sensor plug in, they look similar.

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  • sweet3
    replied
    Not so sure if that is the best grounding point. There is another ground point on the opposite side of the car. I put my grounding point going from the passenger side engine mount to the grounding point e30 chassis. Probably doesnt make much of a difference though

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  • erb326
    replied
    Originally posted by goarmy
    engine ground strap on?

    yeah i copied this, went on the driver side frame rail and connected to the mount bolt of the alternator

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  • goarmy
    replied
    engine ground strap on?

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  • erb326
    replied
    Replaced the cam sensor and the crank sensor, when cranking the pump is trying but ignition cuts. Yesterday I was able to endlessly crank the motor, today it tries but immediately stops

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  • erb326
    replied
    Originally posted by goarmy
    you need to ground the highlighted wire to the passenger side strut tower. Is your fuel rail harness small brown wire grounded in front of the engine?
    Yeah I left that circle wire connected the second wire I put to the power terminal. Yes the ground wire is solid I even took it off to clean the connection just to make sure the bolt wasnt corroded or anything.

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  • goarmy
    replied
    you need to ground the highlighted wire to the passenger side strut tower. Is your fuel rail harness small brown wire grounded in front of the engine?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goarmy; 07-29-2014, 05:32 PM.

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  • erb326
    replied
    Dont know if it helps. But the cam position sensor is 1.347 k ohms and the crank position sensor is .541 k ohms shouldn't they be the same?

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  • erb326
    replied
    Has the fuel feed line going to the fpr like an idiot switched it now the fpr is to the return line. But still just endlessly cranks and doesnt start

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  • erb326
    replied
    Fuel is now getting all the way to the rail... but the return side of the rail is dry and the plugs are still bone dry so im thinking the fpr is not operating or am I wrong?

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  • erb326
    replied
    So stripped back some of the shielding on the wires... one was red... hooked it to power fuel pum now operational. But it still will not kick

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  • erb326
    replied
    These 2 wires off the diagnostic port lead go to ground right?

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  • erb326
    replied
    Originally posted by e30rapidic
    test for power at pump, it should come on with it jumped and ignition on. Hows the fuse?
    Jumper from 30 to 87 on the relay when cranking the pump gets no power well no sound, could hook it to the mulit meter and find out what its getting, grabbed a spare pump I had, plugged it in and it didnt kick on either.

    Checked fuses 9, 10, 11 and 21 and all are still in tact

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  • e30rapidic
    replied
    test for power at pump, it should come on with it jumped and ignition on. Hows the fuse?

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