S52 Q's

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

Ok just did the S52 in a 89 325is.. I converted the engine to OBD1. Its up and running and is fast as hell.. I have a few q's that i need to take care of to finish the car. 1 temp gauge doesnt work.. I drilled and tapped a second hole in the head and used the M50 temp gauges. So the wiring is all original.. I was told you need the M20 temp gauge so the cluster will read the resistence?? Ok were is the sen. on the M20 i need and will it screw in to the head, and do i replace the front or back sensor?? 2. I need a fan for behind the rad. Were have you guys sourced this from.. I need the fan to suck as it will be behind the radiator.. what size will work best?? 3. Intake, now i have a hot air intake. does someone have a better idea? maybe some pics of some cold air setups. I also need to move the Power steering bottle because it is rubbing on the intake hose. 4. throttle cable, I am using the stock M20 cable. Its kinda lose but works. Is their a better option. and will the E30 crusie work if the cable is connected? 5. right now iam running the 750il 25mm master cyl and its way to stiff. I will be doing the 5 lug E30 m3 susp and brakes soon, what is the best option for a brake master?? right now it almost take 2 feet to stop the car. and last but least the is perfect at wot.. when giving the engine just alittle of throttle the rmps sway back and forth till about 6000 rpm.. its a little hesitation that is hardley noticable. anyways its the same problem i had with the m20?? since everything has been changed i think its either the filter or fuel pump?? Not quit sure. thanks for all the help. Iam new to this site. My friend Dave (1990M3) told me about you guys. This is about the only site for swaps.. thanks

[static]

read this forum section, pretty much all of this was covered here

change for an IX booster with e34 m5 MC for better brake assist, or go to gym and build up some leg muscles

there is an engine bay pics thread somewhere here, as i said - do some work and use the search function

also, next time organize your post better (like use paragraphs), this would make it easier for others to read

good luck

[FredK]

1. temp gauge doesnt work.. I drilled and tapped a second hole in the head and used the M50 temp gauges. So the wiring is all original.. I was told you need the M20 temp gauge so the cluster will read the resistence?? Ok were is the sen. on the M20 i need and will it screw in to the head, and do i replace the front or back sensor??

You need to replace the rear sensor with the M20. Check out this post
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...1&postcount=22
The sensor is located on the thermostat housing on the M20. It is the single pole sensor.

2. I need a fan for behind the rad. Were have you guys sourced this from.. I need the fan to suck as it will be behind the radiator.. what size will work best??

I believe that this fan is a dime a dozen, I think any thin electric fan with a universal mounting kit SHOULD work. That said I guess a lot of people use a Spal brand fan.

3. Intake, now i have a hot air intake. does someone have a better idea? maybe some pics of some cold air setups. I also need to move the Power steering bottle because it is rubbing on the intake hose.

Well, the problem with a cold air intake on 88+ 325is is that the ABS module and expansion tank are in the way. I guess maybe some creative ducting and shielding might work. All of the cold air boxes I've seen thus far are for cars without ABS, or cars without the expansion tank (like permit's, he's using the stock M42 radiator with the built in expansion tank).

4. throttle cable, I am using the stock M20 cable. Its kinda lose but works. Is their a better option. and will the E30 crusie work if the cable is connected?

Lots of people recommend the E36 throttle cable. It is $25 or so from online BMW parts places. I got mine from Black Forest BMW (www.bfbmw.com).

5. right now iam running the 750il 25mm master cyl and its way to stiff. I will be doing the 5 lug E30 m3 susp and brakes soon, what is the best option for a brake master?? right now it almost take 2 feet to stop the car.

What booster are you using? Did you get the booster brand new / remanufactured, or did you get it used? The 25mm master cylinder isn't supposed to increase effort that much.

and last but least the is perfect at wot.. when giving the engine just alittle of throttle the rmps sway back and forth till about 6000 rpm.. its a little hesitation that is hardley noticable. anyways its the same problem i had with the m20?? since everything has been changed i think its either the filter or fuel pump?? Not quit sure. thanks for all the help.

Well, if you suspect the fueling system, get a fuel pressure testing kit. Hook it up to the schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail, and check pressure.

[FredK]

Part number for the E36 throttle cable: 35411161698

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

thanks so much for all the help

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

oh and Iam running a 320 boaster that AKG built

[BimmerToad]

If you end up going E30 M3 5 lug, the bigger calipers soften up the pedal just a bit, when using the 25mm MC.

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

right now it feels like i have no help from the boaster. the only reason i believe it is working is that when i start the car the pedal drops about a inch.. but i cant get the abs to come on and i can push the pedal with both feet and only get the pedal down about .5 in.

[Jason89i]

I need a fan for behind the rad. Were have you guys sourced this from.. I need the fan to suck as it will be behind the radiator.. what size will work best?? 3. Intake, now i have a hot air intake. does someone have a better idea? maybe some pics of some cold air setups. Iam new to this site. My friend Dave (1990M3) told me about you guys. This is about the only site for swaps.. thanks

greetings from wisconsin. are you headed to gingerman with dave on monday? if so, stop by and say hi. now thats (5) e30s50/52's in wisconsin. if the pedal is that stiff, check your vacuume. might also explain the hesitation and uneven idle. if you had the same problem with the m20, check your fuel pressure. the secondary pump may be the only one working. i have run one car with no fan, one with the clutch fan (its a very tight fit) and my other one with a 16" electric pusher fan mounted in front of the condenser. ebay, new, 2600+/-cfm, under $40 to the door.

re: cold air intake.....i am currently making some air boxes to fit the smooth bore elbows i had made. if your interested, let me know. ive only got a few left. it consists of a 3.5 to 3.0 elbow, 3.5 alum spacer, 3.5 alum spacer with breather ports welded. see pics below.

also notice the cruse cable was secured with collars (with set allen screws) over vacuume hose.

cheers, jason .

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

could the check valve be bad?? I can barley blow through the hose.. No gingerman for me. we are doing blackhawk on the 30th with the m3's and next month i will be at oktoberfest in MI and will be doing gingerman then. I should post some video. Dave and I were at Autobahn last weekend with the e30 m3's. it was a blast.. we were passing e46 m3's left and right. the only cars we couldnt beat were fall-lines m3's. its was the most fun i have had at a track.. between my 2.5 and daves alpha/n the e46's were only pulling a few cars on the straits, but that changed on the first corner.
As far as the temp gauge should i use a 9volt battery to test the wire and see if the gauge works.?? right now the temp of the coolant in the bottle is 180 so i figure the block has to be around 190??

[Jason89i]

could the check valve be bad?? I can barley blow through the hose......
As far as the temp gauge should i use a 9volt battery to test the wire and see if the gauge works.?? right now the temp of the coolant in the bottle is 180 so i figure the block has to be around 190??

e30 pin 4 (c101)(brn/vio) goes to e36 pin 12 (x20)(brn/red) for most of the e30's. the e36 water gauge sensor (dual prong) should be replaced with the e30 water gauge sensor (single prong.) e36 harness pin 12 (at the x20/c101 splice) should run continuity to that single prong on the sensor. also make sure the the sensor is grounded to the head (no plumbers tape or gasket sealer.)

the check valve will only let air pass through it one way. verify that air can be blown from the booster side to the manifold side. you could eliminate it to verify it is not the problem......but you will have no power brakes if the engine stops running.

autobahn sounds like a lot of fun. i'll see you at blackhawk. there should be a lot of e30s50's there.....i know of (3 maybe 4) so far.

cheers, jason

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

yes i cant wait.. i will have my m3 there

[1990m3]

yeah brandon we certainly represented at autobahn last weekend. i still can't believe how well our 4-bangers pounced on those e46's. I am still smiling about it

[Jay325]

Bennetts22 I think you sold me my s50 and black vaders last fall? (still not in yet but soon) Good to see you on here.

[Bennetts22@aol.com]

I just tried fixing the temp sensor. The ohm was higher on the one wire so i figured that was the wire.. I have a s14 laying around and looked at the temp sensors on that engine.. the front sensor is a single prong but is a rectangle plug for a two wire.. So i matched up the wire i thought went to the dme and the wire on the s14 sensor and they matched.. The good thing about the s14 sensor is that it plugs right into the e36 plug.. I spun the old sensor out, put the s14 one in. started the car and crossed my fingers. I took the car for a spin after about .5mile the gauge started to rise. within about 5 miles it went up nice and slow and stopped and the dead center mark on the gauge. so one less thing i can mark off the to do list.