Bronzit Beige Metallic S52 Swap. need some help. obd2 only!

[CENTURION]

Hey R3v, I've got an 89 Bronzit 325i that I'm swapping my S52 into.
I am new to the site so please forgive my ignorance.
This build is strictly obd2. However, I ordered an ms41.1 ecu with ews2, sap, and post o2 deletion. I have my original ecu, that i will use later to have it barred as obd2. I've got almost 2 years until then!

So, so far ive got the motor/trans installed already. Zf Transmission. e28 535i green motor mounts.
modified the 944 booster last night, intend to use oem master.
routed some of the coolant/ heater lines.
power steering connected.

But... i need some help. is anyone in the socal area willing to modify my obd2 harness for me? nothing obd1 installed except for the m50 manifold.

Build thread, more photos to come.

[328ijunkie]

Theres a few people here (including us) that can modify your harness for you, that or Andrew or Nando make adapters.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I just "finished" my obd2 s52 swap. At the very least I can send you my wiring diagram. If you're local, I might be convinced to stop by and take a look,though I will be quite busy over the next 2-3 weeks.

S52 + bronzit FTW!!

[bmwlover]

I went with Markert Motor Works myself. they did a great job. Everything was labelled so it's a very easy install.

[CENTURION]

Thanks for responding. I've had a few pointers but I might go with an adapter. I feel weird about splicing things up.
More photos coming very soon.

[Poeman446]

Splicing is really easy and its what I did. Get the ETM's for your chassis and your engine, and just connect the dots. Its a lot of searching to verify, but its really not that bad. There was a thread on here about buying the pins and soldering your cut wires into the C101 and making it look factory. Its MUCH less bulky than an adapter, but then again adapters are easy to install.

[CENTURION]

Ok so,
I ended up ordering a custom made adapter for the harness.
with brown temp sensor connector, oil level and ac input.
i am using my obd2 harness, has anyone done this?
what do i do with the 2 extra round connectors?

[CENTURION]

Re threaded brown top from Markert Motor works. thanks guys!
and adapter from ebay. letthebasskick04. thank you sir.

now.figuring out the rest is what I will need a bit of assistance on. please and thank you.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Those two "extra" round connectors contain some other wires that may or may not be important to your swap, in addition to the x20 connector which is the main engine connector. They are referred to as the x6031 connector and the x69 connector (should be pointed out in the bentley manual diagrams). The x69 is the smaller of the two. According to my notes, the x69 connector was not needed as it seemed to be a bunch of outputs to the ABS/ASC module (no longer needed). The x6031 connector has some emissions related wiring (since you mentioned BARing it, you might need some of these) - looks like carbon canister, fuel tank pressure, and some others that I also didn't need like more ABS/ASC outputs. The only wire I used from the x6031 was pin 1 - the check engine light control to cluster.

As for your specific adapter, I don't know how they make it or how to install it, so your best bet is to contact MMW and ask them what wires need to be connected where.

Hope that helps a little. Read the ETMs for both cars and you will gain tremendous insight as to exactly how it all works which will probably wind up self explaining how to connect everything.

[CENTURION]

^Thank you sir for the feedback.
can you guys tell me if I did this correctly?
and can I leave the SAP wires alone for now? I only connected the red connector "yellow" to the positive terminal.
this Is an obd2 harness from a 97 M3
RED- Power cable from harness
ORANGE- Power cable from harness
BLUE- fuse box power cable with two end connectors
GREEN- terminal cable going down to starter
YELLOW- Secondary Air Pump, red connector

so how am I doing guys?

[sweet3]

BTW, the e36 has a red power cable that runs from the junction box to the starter and it also runs to the fuse-box. This is because the e36 needed a power cable for the fusebox.
On the e30, the fusebox already has its own power wire that runs to the junction box. Then there is a seperate cable running from the junction box to the starter.
I say all this because it appears that you are connecting both of them. Is that right?
When I did my swap, I decided to keep my e30 starter wire and I deleted the e36 starter power cable.
This might make a bit more sense if you open that big black box that is holding all the wires.
That starter should only have 2 larger power cables on it.

I believe the wire you have marked in RED is the one that I deleted. Inside that black box, it is crimped onto 2 more RED wires (one that goes towards the fusebox, and the other towards the starter)
One more thing, where is your ground wire that goes on the strut tower?

[CENTURION]

BTW, the e36 has a red power cable that runs from the junction box to the starter and it also runs to the fuse-box. This is because the e36 needed a power cable for the fusebox.
On the e30, the fusebox already has its own power. That's why the e30 only has a cable running from the junction box to the starter.
I say all this because it appears that you are connecting both of them. Is that right?
When I did my swap, I decided to keep my e30 starter wire and I deleted the e36 starter power cable.
This might make a bit more sense if you open that big black box that is holding all the wires.
That starter should only have 2 larger power cables on it.

I believe the wire you have marked in RED is the one that I deleted. Inside that black box, it is crimped onto 2 more RED wires (one that goes towards the fusebox, and the other towards the starter)
One more thing, where is your ground wire that goes on the strut tower?

I really do appreciate your time and information. Thank you!
I will sort the power cable situation out immediately. as for the ground cable your talking about, I think I connected the correct one today. I will have a photo by tomorrow, referring to that ground. I'm close to finishing up, it's the electrical stuff that's stalling me a bit. I don't know much about electrical. more photos to come.

[CENTURION]

Here is how I'm setting up my M50 Manifold. cost me nothing.

[CENTURION]

Oh dayum. I'm almost done. can't wait. I know the harness is a mess, but it'll do for now.

[CENTURION]

nothing crazy but maybe this could be useful to someone in the future. I used an ETA boot with one hole on my s52 throttle body. but due to fitment issues I had to improvise. the white portion is pvc. it does bottle neck a little bit, but I did not think that would be much of a problem for the m50 manifold anyway.