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    #1

    Same shit different day

    Ok I am really starting to get pissed off about this now.

    I have a BRAND NEW o2 sensor, even the one I should use.. OBDI s50 one for my OBDI S52. I STILL get o2 codes and lambda control #1 and the engine runs like crap.

    Along with that, I STILL get vehicle speed sensor not present even after hooking up all the wires.

    What the hell is going on? Could it be a bad ECU or anything?
    Rollin' with a Geistkuchen
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    #2
    Follow your o2 sensor wires from the sensor to the brain to make sure they are wired up properly (or what's easier is to check continuity). Also, check continuity from the o2 heater relay to the sensor, and make sure the relay terminal of the heater relay has battery voltage during normal engine temps.

    Is the car running too rich or too lean? Go to a smog pre-test place and find out. Try disconnecting the o2 sensor and see if the exhaust gets richer or leaner. That should start you along the right path. The vehicle speed sensor problem I had never caused the car to run like shit, but I also don't have a chip with a speed limiter.

    Also try borrowing another ecu that you know works properly and see if that helps.

    I finally found (after trying every possible thing) that my o2 bung was not properly welded, and had a huge leak at the sensor. The leak would cause the sensor to read lean, so the ecu would richen the mixture until the lambda code would be triggered.

    For the vehicle speed sensor, check your speedo gauge in your cluster and make sure you don't have any burnt out electronics. I did, and a 10 cent resistor fixed the problem.

    I know how you probably feel. All of these little things add up and take a while to fix.
    San Diego BMW repair -> Jake @ www.littlecarshop.com Great guy :up:

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      #3
      Yeah, definitely check for leaks at the 02 bung or headers (I'm guessing they are welded obd2 headers?)
      '91 318is
      sigpic

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        #4
        Well we dont have smog tests or any sort around here so.. lol.

        I might take it back to the exhaust shop and see if the guy who did my exhaust can find a leak somehow, that looks like something I wouldnt be able to do. Oh yes they are OBD2 headers.

        For the speedo sensor, I remeber your post BimmerToad and I did take apart my cluster to check for any blown resistors, I never found anything. The odd thing with this code is before I hooked the wire up I could for sure tell there was a short limiter. Now I dont feel a limiter at all, it just seems to run very poorly due to a bad mixture.

        I did check the heater relay for the o2 as well, that will throw its own code if I unplug it and start the engine, so I am assuming its good.


        EDIT:

        Auctually right now, I have 1 o2 sensor that is just running on 3 cylinders of my car because I have not had the guy who did my exhaust pop a new hole in the collector for me. I wanted to get all the odds and ends worked out and make sure I had a good o2 before I did it since getting to it on the collector will be very difficult. Would this cause a problem at all?
        Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

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          #5
          You know what, now that I think of it I have an idea. When I deleted the air pump for the OBDI conversion, one of the blockoff plates for the exhaust lost a gasket. Joe found one that was pretty close to it so we just cranked it on, he said it would work and had done the swap before so I didnt think much of it. But I bet that could be leaking and throwing my AFR off.
          Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

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            #6
            That could definately do it.

            I don't think a single o2 on a bank of headers would cause the car to run bad. Maybe not as well as one at an X pipe or after a Y, but not bad.
            San Diego BMW repair -> Jake @ www.littlecarshop.com Great guy :up:

            Comment

              #7
              Yeah, I figured optimumly all the cylinders will output the same AFR.

              Anyways, I pulled the block off plates off, one looked like it was on really good, the gasket came apart when I took it off like it really sealed up. The other one was still intact and came off pretty easy.
              Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

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                #8
                I think we are back in business boys and girls. I took the block off plates off and re sealed them. Just took the car out for a drive after clearing the codes and it ran beautifully, pulled strong through all the RPMS. The only codes I got was my evap purge valve which I dont have, and A/C which I dont have.

                The only thing that is a bit worrisome is at WOT the AFR is off the scale lean, but it dosnt seem to make the engine run poorly.
                Rollin' with a Geistkuchen

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                  #9
                  don't feel bad. my car hasn't started in a month. Finally got another EWS delete chip from my friends swap car and it starts everytime. I've been picking my brain for a month and it turns out to be the stupid JC chip. Sent mine back, should get my new one this week...

                  glad you've got your problems solved, now go have some fun driving it!!

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