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Strange temp gauge issues **RESOLVED**

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    Strange temp gauge issues **RESOLVED**

    Swap details - Hopefully this helps a bit? Car is an '87 325is. Sorry in advance for the wall of text. Two possible issues here and I'm not quite sure which way to go yet.

    S52/ZF320 (stock)
    Running 140amp alternator
    m50 manifold swap
    Stewart WP
    e30 radiator (late)
    No Mechanical fan
    Factory aux fan
    80/88ºC fan switch
    Harness done by Robert K.
    ECU flashed by Markert


    Since I've completed my swap, I've noticed the factory temp gauge is sometimes erratic and will jump/creep into the red even though I don't think the car may actually be overheating. At this point i wind up shutting the car down since I don't want to chance any damage. I'm using a Go-Point OBDII dongle and DashCommand on my phone. The highest I've seen the coolant temp read is only about 205º at which that point the aux fan comes on at low speed and helps (somewhat). Now - i understand I'm pressing my luck running with only one fan - the car is basically running on half the fans it was designed for. And, while I admit the car is probably running hotter than it should, the discrepancy between what the gauge is reading and the temp the ECU is seeing in the app have me confused. I do have the thin euro mechanical fan ready to drop in but there's only millimeters of clearance from the radiator and I'm concerned about how it would handle high revs and "spirited driving". In the meantime, I've chosen not to run it (though I haven't driven the car much to be honest). I'm also considering running an 80ºC thermostat instead of the stock t-stat to see if that helps.

    Back to the temp gauge - part of me is wondering if there's an electrical issue here because I've noticed when the temp gauge is erratic, using other accessories in the car cause it to "jiggle" and move more. For instance - it may read a tick over halfway, but if I turn the heater blower to max, it will move up to the 3/4 mark. Or if I use the power windows, it will bounce around slightly. I didn't touch the cluster at all during the swap (and things were working perfectly before!), but I'm wondering if there should be some grounds or other connections I should be checking. I'm considering having the cluster rebuilt, just to rule that out - and the car is 29 years old anyway.

    It also occurred to me that while the battery in the car is about 2-3 years old - it is the battery designed for the factory m20, not the s52. I have a digital volt meter in the dash and it seems to stay mainly in the low 13.x volts range, which while not bad seems to be a bit lower than I remember. I checked on Interstate's website and the e36 M does have a different model number than what the e30 has. I also checked AutoZone's website and the batteries offered for the e36 have about 100-150 more CCA that what is offered for the e30. Is it possible this could be contributing to my issue as well? Or is it not a significant enough difference to matter?

    Hoping I can get this figured out over the winter so she's ready to come spring. Unfortunately a lot of this "testing" has been done while idling in the garage and with no mech fan, I can't help but wonder if there's some heat soak coming into play here to...

    Thanks in advance folks :drink:
    Last edited by BlackSpeed66; 02-29-2016, 06:06 PM.
    -Geno

    '87 325is (s52'd)
    '95 525iT
    '02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    '98 Disco 1

    #2
    Make sure nut on back of cluster is tight but other than that, welcome to E30 clusters. I never trust them and always make sure the engine isnt overheating based off what the ECU is seeing. I have seen some customer cars that the gauge doesnt go over half till 225+!

    Check Us out on Facebook
    Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
    Full Product Line Tuning
    OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

    Comment


      #3
      I had the exact same issue on the exact same swap (I even have the Stewart pump). The gauge would go into the red when everything seemed to be fine. So I installed an aftermarket gauge and it never seems to read above 210 or so. The fan comes on and easily brings it back to 200 at that point. Of course as soon as I did that, the OEM gauge hasn't acted up again lol!

      Basically, everything is fine. Your temps and fan setup are fine. It's just the gauge.

      Comment


        #4
        Just finished the M52b28 swap on my '85. Temp gauge never leaves the blue, although I have good heat coming through the vents. The car is at operating temp at the top end of the blue mark. Nut on cluster is tight...assuming that my SI batteries are cooked.
        sigpic
        325e Schwartz coupe(02/85) OBDII M52B28+ZF320 swapped

        Comment


          #5
          Prob used wrong sender/plugged in wrong.

          Check Us out on Facebook
          Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
          Full Product Line Tuning
          OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by 328ijunkie View Post
            Prob used wrong sender/plugged in wrong.
            I believe so. Once I get a few odds and ends tidied up, I'll be paying a visit to your shop!
            sigpic
            325e Schwartz coupe(02/85) OBDII M52B28+ZF320 swapped

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 328ijunkie View Post
              Make sure nut on back of cluster is tight but other than that, welcome to E30 clusters. I never trust them and always make sure the engine isnt overheating based off what the ECU is seeing. I have seen some customer cars that the gauge doesnt go over half till 225+!
              I have the same issue as well. My past S50 didnt have gauge issues, but my S52 325iS is now. My engine was reading 178 when my gauge was reading just over halfway.

              It likes to stay around 3/4 mark, and not fluctuate. I've come to the conclusion that my cluster needs a rebuild lol. So i just live with it. It definitely made me worried until i got an actual reading....

              freaking E30's
              -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
              91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
              08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
              04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


              Originally posted by IronJoe
              Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

              Originally posted by 2mAn
              Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

              Comment


                #8
                Yup. Damn e30s

                Check Us out on Facebook
                Needing a harness adapter or wiring help? Check it out: also have 24v motor mounts, E30 M3 covers and E36 ECU mounts!
                Full Product Line Tuning
                OBD2 Tuning Available! OBD2 E36, S54 Swap, S62 Swap, etc: tuning@MarkertMotorWorks.com Dyno Thread

                Comment


                  #9
                  After some discussion w/ Greg at BavRest, I will likely be sending my cluster to get rebuilt in the near future. It appears with the main battery on the car being disconnected in the months during the engine swap, it may have done in the SI board batteries, and this may be contributing to the temp gauge wackiness. I will certainly report back once the work on the cluster is done.
                  -Geno

                  '87 325is (s52'd)
                  '95 525iT
                  '02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
                  '98 Disco 1

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by BlackSpeed66 View Post
                    After some discussion w/ Greg at BavRest, I will likely be sending my cluster to get rebuilt in the near future. It appears with the main battery on the car being disconnected in the months during the engine swap, it may have done in the SI board batteries, and this may be contributing to the temp gauge wackiness. I will certainly report back once the work on the cluster is done.
                    i'll definitely keep watch on this. in for updates!
                    -Brad, AlphaTeam Motorwerks, LLC
                    91' 318iS - S54/6MT Swapped
                    08' E90 M3 6MT - Daily
                    04' Chevy Duramax CCLB - Work Truck/Hauler


                    Originally posted by IronJoe
                    Alpha Team: running through e30s, gringo icebergs, and 19 yr olds.

                    Originally posted by 2mAn
                    Brads a standup guy even though he likes buttsex

                    Comment


                      #11
                      $%&*@!*!! grounds.

                      After I pulled the reman alternator off to go have it tested for the supposed charging issues i was having, I started poking around under the intake area to see if anything was amiss or leaking.

                      I happened to grab the main engine ground I have bolted to the oil pan. It moved. It wasn't hanging, but I could definitely move it back and forth as though the bolt was a few turns loose. So - either one of two things, the bolt managed to back itself out somehow, or (more likely) yours truly thought it was tightened all the way during the install. In my defense, the threaded mount is in an odd location on the side of the oil pan so the ratchet may have bound somewhat due to the angle when tightening, leading me to believe it was all good.

                      So-- I cleaned the crap out of all the contact points for the alternator, block, and frame rail and made sure everything was tight. My car is charging now, no intermittent starting! No more wacky gauges (temp gauge and VDO oil temp/pressure). All of it grounds through the block. :hitler:

                      I believe the reason the ECU was getting the proper temp reading is because the e36 sender uses 2 wires (on the e30) and the stock e30 temp sender for the gauge only uses one wire, with the block for the ground.
                      -Geno

                      '87 325is (s52'd)
                      '95 525iT
                      '02 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
                      '98 Disco 1

                      Comment

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